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Crazy burning oil after headgasket replacement

11K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  Bumblebee 
#1 ·
Hi there, i'm happy that i found a forum.

I have a huge problem with my euro spec crx. Engine type is d16z5.
2 weeks ago i replaced the headgasket on it. Also the valve stem seals were replaced same time. So i did a test ride with low rpm's, it was smoking white/ gray and i thought it can be some coolant or oil which stands in the block, so did an oilchange. Nothing changed it was still smoking, yesterday i drove to work with car (i'm working in a car repair shop) and showed the master mechanic how its doing. So we did an wheel alignment and than he checked the engine, took the plugs out did an compression test which was good.
we had done also an leak test (after first testride when headgasket was done) and the gauge showed under 20% leaking.

The mAster mechanic is thinking the vss are bad. Today i started it up and at idle it began to missfire, dark grey and brown smoke came out. In seconds my garage looked foged like a club.

After doing a little bit research i was reading that the vss on intake and exhaust side are different and the springs have different colors. I asked the mechanic (he helped me to replace the vss) if we did it right and he said who cares they are all the same. Right now i don't know what to do and what is worn. Hopefully you guys can help me
 
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#2 ·
It's possible the wrong headgasket was used, since your motor appears to be a dohc ZC style. Most likely the seals are leaking, either from being made wrong or installed wrong. Since the dohc ZC is not as common, I wonder if the seals used were for a newer sohc motor.

Did the person that installed the seals ever perform them before for that specific head, or at least done a few 90's Honda heads?
 
#5 ·
I called also an engine rebuild shop. They told me the piston rings are broken. I can't believe that. Also the head gasket, i cleaned the head side and block side perfect, put the head on, tighten the bolts with right torque,
Put a new timing belt with new pulley on, checked the timing settings 2 more times, valve clearence adjusted, new plugs,

I don't know why but i have the feeling that on the valve stem seals something is wrong.
I mean they looked really all the same. Same diameter and all same, but we had not checked for different colors. Can that really be that huge difference?
 
#10 ·
So, sorry that it took so long to hear something of me.
I took the head off, replaced all valve and stem seals again, replaced head gasket, head bolts, new piston rings, new rod bearings.
Engine runs fine so far but after couple rides the next problem is here :-(

As soon the engine is hot the oil pressure warning light comes on.
I measured it with tool and the oil pressure goes real low to 10-15psi

As soon that happens the valves are
Ticking louder. No noise from rod bearings or main bearings.
I have no idea what to do now
Before i put all together i cleaned also the filter of oil pump.
The engine had the oem rod bearings in and i replaced them with king racing rod bearings in standard size

Oil i used 10w40 and an parts plus oil filter.
Does somebody have an idea?
 
#11 ·
My girlfriend came back 2 minutea ago and said she was driving it, pushed it hard over 6000 rpms, let it came down and stopped at a stop sign, engine just cut off. She started it up again and it wouldnt idle, she was waiting 5-10 minutes and than it was idle ok, she drove back and the oil light came back on, she said first it was blinking dimmed and than it stayed on again
 
#14 ·
you need to stop throwing parts at it.

AT this point it would be FAR more effective for someone who is very familiar with hondas come and look at it.
 
#16 ·
Totally forgot valve guides are replaced also,
I take out the oil pan tomorrow and check the rod bearings again
Then i leave all open to get the bearings measured, i've seen on line that standard king bearings are same size than the blue oem bearings, they are the biggest ones, i like to make sure that they don't mess up my crank
 
#18 ·
So finally have good, i took the oil pan off...
Took the rod bearings out again, they are broken down. King xp racing bearings gone after a half fuel tank driving. I just put my old oem ones back in, did a testdrive for about 2 hours and 80 miles later no problems.

I checked the numbers on rods and crank to identify what the spec bearings are they would fit for my engine. So i got color brown cylinder 1&4, green for 2&3.
the king bearings have a oem number to cross and this makes a blue bearing, a lot to big for my engine.
Why do they sell bearings in the biggest size?
 
#19 ·
I will order the bearings oem like the numbers are saying, then i will use plastigauge to make sure its perfect.
Normally if you order standard size bearings you will get the middle thickness of bearings, so i know it from vw, it's not a 100% perfect but it works well
 
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