In this specific DIY, the example engine is an F22A6.
Required:
Tools:
1/4NPT tap
M12x1.25 tap
M10x1.5 tap
M8x1.25 tap
JB weld
RTV grey
Teflon tape
Hack saw
M8 hex bit
M10 hex bit
Extended length (8 inches or so) M8 hex bit/allen key.
Various engine disassembly tools and hammers/sockets, ratchets.
Parts:
1" Frost plug
40mm Frost plug
3x Honda 12mm head, M8x1.25, One fully threaded with about 20mm of thread.
1x M12x1.25 Honda bolt
3x M10x1.5 Generic M10 bolts
Pulled the BS's out. Wont get into details on this.
Here you can see the steel main caps still attached to the aluminium girdle. You need to remove those. Its easy, theres nice spaces under them you can fit a prybar and a little wiggling and they pop right off.
The dowels that align the main caps to the aluminium girdle will need to be pulled out of the girdle so you can tap the holes for plugs. I removed mine very carefully with round grip vice grips and wiggled them out. Try your best not to mangle them because they need to go back in.
All the holes tapped for blocking in the girdle. Now to get the frost plugs and the oil pump all plugged up.
Obviously I still need to trim the bolts down and slot them so I can screw them in. But heres the general idea.
The smaller holes are tapped with M10x1.5. The larger hole M12x1.25.
You can see here, that the girdle has the hex cap plugs removed as well so I could flush it out. Lots of flakes came out from the tapping..
And a picture of the tapped hole, after its been cleaned out.
Next up I used a hack saw to cut the bolts down to be plugs and also to slot them. To slot them, screw the small plug into a nut and then pinch the nut in the vice, then cut the slot. Good tip.
I chopped the M10x1.5'ers to 5 thread lengths. 1.5x5 = 7.5mm total height of each plug.
The M12x1.25 I cut to 6 threads, which would be 7.5mm tall as well.
Not seen here, but you will see them later, are the 3x M8x1.25 Honda bolts that you might as well cut at the same time as the rest of them. Cut them about 6 thread lengths as well. There are only two you need to cut into plugs, the last one, leave complete, and it has to be about 20mm of threads long. I will explain more later.
I then cut slots into each of them so I can screw them in. I could even use a torque wrench to install them if I so choose.
I also had my parts master man from work order up me some frost plugs. 1" and 40mm. These are basically the only thing you will need to pay for.
Started by tapping the various holes on the oil pump.
The two smaller ones I drilled out with 7/16ths drill bit before tapping. They are the pressure ports. The larger hole off to the side there is non pressure so I wasn't too worried about the loose-ish fit it has. No drilling required here.
Pictured below is the pressure port with a hole in it. This is where your 20mm long M8 Honda bolt will go. The length of the bolt is on purpose, so you block the hole off. Make sure to tap deep enough.
All drilled.
Tapping.
Required:
Tools:
1/4NPT tap
M12x1.25 tap
M10x1.5 tap
M8x1.25 tap
JB weld
RTV grey
Teflon tape
Hack saw
M8 hex bit
M10 hex bit
Extended length (8 inches or so) M8 hex bit/allen key.
Various engine disassembly tools and hammers/sockets, ratchets.
Parts:
1" Frost plug
40mm Frost plug
3x Honda 12mm head, M8x1.25, One fully threaded with about 20mm of thread.
1x M12x1.25 Honda bolt
3x M10x1.5 Generic M10 bolts
Pulled the BS's out. Wont get into details on this.
Here you can see the steel main caps still attached to the aluminium girdle. You need to remove those. Its easy, theres nice spaces under them you can fit a prybar and a little wiggling and they pop right off.
The dowels that align the main caps to the aluminium girdle will need to be pulled out of the girdle so you can tap the holes for plugs. I removed mine very carefully with round grip vice grips and wiggled them out. Try your best not to mangle them because they need to go back in.
All the holes tapped for blocking in the girdle. Now to get the frost plugs and the oil pump all plugged up.
Obviously I still need to trim the bolts down and slot them so I can screw them in. But heres the general idea.
The smaller holes are tapped with M10x1.5. The larger hole M12x1.25.
You can see here, that the girdle has the hex cap plugs removed as well so I could flush it out. Lots of flakes came out from the tapping..
And a picture of the tapped hole, after its been cleaned out.
Next up I used a hack saw to cut the bolts down to be plugs and also to slot them. To slot them, screw the small plug into a nut and then pinch the nut in the vice, then cut the slot. Good tip.
I chopped the M10x1.5'ers to 5 thread lengths. 1.5x5 = 7.5mm total height of each plug.
The M12x1.25 I cut to 6 threads, which would be 7.5mm tall as well.
Not seen here, but you will see them later, are the 3x M8x1.25 Honda bolts that you might as well cut at the same time as the rest of them. Cut them about 6 thread lengths as well. There are only two you need to cut into plugs, the last one, leave complete, and it has to be about 20mm of threads long. I will explain more later.
I then cut slots into each of them so I can screw them in. I could even use a torque wrench to install them if I so choose.
I also had my parts master man from work order up me some frost plugs. 1" and 40mm. These are basically the only thing you will need to pay for.
Started by tapping the various holes on the oil pump.
The two smaller ones I drilled out with 7/16ths drill bit before tapping. They are the pressure ports. The larger hole off to the side there is non pressure so I wasn't too worried about the loose-ish fit it has. No drilling required here.
Pictured below is the pressure port with a hole in it. This is where your 20mm long M8 Honda bolt will go. The length of the bolt is on purpose, so you block the hole off. Make sure to tap deep enough.
All drilled.
Tapping.