HOW TO: 92-95 Auto to Manual Swap

[Acid X]

HOW TO: 92-95 Automatic to Manual swap - My experiences

SO, I swapped my transmission this past weekend, and figured that there wasnt enough definite information here for a 92-95 civic swap. So here are my experiences, and my tips. Sorry for the lack of pictures, but if you need help feel free to pass me a message. NOTE: I gathered most of my information from the following links.

USEFUL links:
1. DIY: Tranny removal and Input Shaft Bearing change
2. 92-95 Civic Tranny manual.......
3. DIY Auto to manual (In detail)
4. http://www.brokenlimits.com/howto/ho...automanual.htm
5. http://www.rywire.com/autotoman_i.shtml
6. http://myworld.ebay.com/gripforce-clutches
7. http://www.goautoworks.com
8. http://www.xenocron.com
9. http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1316692
10. Clutch start switch wiring

Tools
Ratchets - 1/2in, 3/8in, 1/4in
Sockets - 8mm through 19mm
12 point sockets - 10mm and 17mm (Important!!)
Wrenches - 8mm through 19mm (Open and Box end)
Line Wrench - 10mm and 12mm
Axle-Nut Socket - Or a large socket, whichever works.
1/2in Breaker Bar - Trust me, you're going to want this puppy.
1/2in Torque Wrench - Very important.
Hammer - For the roll pin
8mm or 1/4in punch - For the roll pin


Parts you need - Where I got it- Notes
1. Transmission - (Private Seller) - I went with a P20 B000 (SI) transmission, and put had new bearings put in. If you want to do this yourself, and need help removing the transmission, follow the instructions in link (1).

2. Clutch/Flywheel/Pressure Plate - (Junk Yard, eBay) - I got my flywheel off of a 92-95 Civic CX ( D15B8 ). It weighs in at ~16lbs, and from what i've heard is the lightest stock flywheel. I personally went ahead and got it resurfaced AND lightened to 11.65lbs. You need to definitely make sure to get your flywheel resurfaced, in case of the clutch + flywheel mating surfaces being warped. If your looking for a good deal on clutches I recommend link (6).

3. ECU - (Already had it) - You don't necessarily NEED this, as the car will run without it, but you will throw a code if you keep the automatic ECU because the ecu won't see the torque converter anymore and wont like that. You can get a good ecu for a decent price at another one of our sponsors, Xenocron. Link ( 8 ).

4. Starter - (Junk Yard) - You NEED a starter AND bolts off of a manual car. The bracket on the automatic starter is a bit wider and the bolts are different. Be sure to get this. I got mine off of an SI.

5. Auto to Manual Conversion Mount - (D-Series Sponsor) - You need a conversion mount for a 92-95 civic. Innovative Mounts makes one, and I'm sure theres a few other companies. This mount will generally run you around $125.00 alone. I bought mine from our forum sponsor Autoworks (7) (or you can PM him through this forum).

6. Front Manual Trans Bracket - (Junk Yard) - This bolts on the front of the transmission and then to the lower side mount in the engine bay. Your automatic has one, but the manual one is different. Just get it and you'll see why.

7. Clutch Slave Cylinder - (Junk Yard) - The slave cylinder bolts to the transmission, and pushes the clutch release fork.. This is obviously a vital piece. Though, I ran into a problem with the bleeder valve being too long and it hit my header. Easy fix? Get a shorter bleeder valve from your local auto parts store, and expect to be bleeding the clutch all over your header.

8. Clutch Master Cylinder w/ Reservoir - (Junk Yard) - This is easy enough to figure out. But just in case, its right next to the brake master cylinder.

9. Hydraulic Lines - (Junk Yard) - You're going to need all of the lines that run from the clutch master cylinder to the transmission.. Theres a little connector point at the back of the firewall, if you disconnect it, it will allow easier removal of the lines. You're probably going to have to bend the lines a little bit out of shape to get them out and back in, unless you want to remove an assload of stuff to get them out in the correct shapes.

10. Pedals - (Junk Yard) - This one is important. If you want to save alot of hassle, just get the brake pedal and clutch assembly. Instead of hassling with removing the whole gas and brake pedal assembly, its alot easier to just swap out the brake pedal alone. You deal with 1 spring, a 14 or 12mm bolt and nut (cant remember the size) and a cotter pin with a stud. If you decide to go the opposite route and take the gas and brake pedal assembly (which is a pain in the ass), don't forget to get the THROTTLE CABLE. It's different from the automatic and will NOT hook up to the manual pedal right. Be sure to get the whole clutch pedal assembly with the bracket and everything. 2 Nuts that you took off from removing the clutch master cylinder and one 12mm bolt to bolt it up top.

11. Throttle Cable - (...) - You ONLY need this if you decided to go the alternate route and get the whole gas and brake pedal assembly. I commend you for taking the extra effort to do it this way, since its such a pain in the ass.. Hah.

12. Shift Linkage - (Junk Yard) - This ones obvious. The easiest way to remove it is to unbolt the stabilizer bar from the trans, unbolt the whole linkage (including shifter) from the car, and then use a 1/4in or 8mm punch with a hammer to bang out the roll pin. This is important, you NEED the roll pin.. So get it damnit.

13. Shifter - (Junk Yard) - Simple... I pulled mine along with the shift linkage.

14. Shift Knob - (Junk Yard) - Again.. Simple.

15. Shifter Bushings - (Shop) - I went with Energy Suspension Polyeurethane ones. 20 bucks. I recommend this to make the shift linkage stiffer.

16. Shift Boot w/ Bracket - (Junk Yard) - Contrary to belief, you do not need the center console, just the shift boot bracket and boot. The bracket bolts right up to your old automatic center console. Added 10/23/07

17. Flywheel Cover Plate - (Junk Yard) - This plate basically covers the lower part of the transmission, where it doesn't meet the engine. The flywheel is exposed, so this plate basically covers it up.

18. BOLTS - (Junk Yard) - This is massively important. You need the pressure plate to flywheel mounting bolts, and the bolts that mount the flywheel to the motor, as they are different from the ones that hold the old flywheel to the motor. Its also a good idea to keep all of the other bolts and nuts you remove so you can reinstall them on your car if you don't have them.

19. Connectors - (Junk Yard) - You're going to want the connector for the reverse lights on the manual trans, as the one for the auto will not work with it.. Hopefully you already have the transmission side sensor and connector. You just need the connecting side unless you want to splice directly into the transmission for wiring later. I also recommend getting the auto shift harness (the large one with alot of wires) with a little bit of wire. It came in handy, as I didnt want to cut my original.

[Acid X]

Step by step:
1. Brake Pedal - If you're going about it like I did, first remove the cotter pin and stud that holds the pedal to the brake booster shaft. Then you can remove the spring, followed by the upper bolt and nut. Install the manual pedal the reverse of removal.

2. Clutch Pedal Assembly - First, look where the clutch pedal is supposed to be. You should see a blue relay of some sort with a bracket thats bolted to the cover that is where the master cylinder is supposed to go through. Unplug the relay and then unbolt the bracket from the cover, the same way you unbolted the clutch assembly off the other car. Pull the relay free and leave it out for now, then pop out the black cover. Slip the clutch assembly up into where its supposed to go and then bolt up the top 12mm bolt (you should have this) just enough to have room to move the assembly around a little bit. Leave this hanging for now.

3. Clutch Master Cylinder - This is pretty simple. Slide the master cylinder into place, and then go inside the car and make sure it slides through the clutch bracket, and bolt it down with the nuts you either took off the black cover, OR you can use the ones that you got from the junk yard just in case. After this, finish bolting up the clutch assembly with that 12mm bolt you left loose.

4. Axles - We have to pop the axles out, so you're going to need to break the hub nuts loose. You have to get a flat head screw driver and hammer the bend out of the nut, and then you should be able to break it loose. You might have to get someone to push the brakes to keep the whole assembly from spinning. You'll need a big socket for the nuts to get them off. After you get them off, you need to remove the castle nut and cotter pin at the bottom of the assembly hub assembly that holds the lower control arm. Take out the pin, and remove the nut, and use a ball joint seperator to remove the LCA from the assembly.

Now you need to remove the damper fork, which is the big fork that connects your strut to the lower control arm. Just remove the 17mm nut and bolt and the damper fork will come free from the control arm. Next, get under the car with a large flathead screwdriver, and wedge it between the axle and the transmission, and pry at it a little bit until the axle pops out. Now remove the axle and set it aside.

5. Auto Transmission - I went ahead and dropped the transmission at this point. Remove the automatic shift linkage before doing this.. It's pretty straight forward, theres just a lot of bolts holding it in. After which, remove your air intake just in case. You want to drain all of the ATF from the tranny using the drain bolt (3/8in drive). After which, reinstall the bolt and then at the top of the transmission, remove the lines that go to the radiator from the transmission (either pull the rubber hoses off the hardline or pull the hardline from the trans). After this, disconnect the electrical connector towards the block on the top of the trans. Get under the car and remove the two 19mm bolts that hold the trans to the rear mount bracket, and the 17mm that bolts the block to the trans. Then remove the plate that covers the lower half of the trans.

Now you want to support the motor, so grab your stock jack and a block of wood, and jack it up until it moves the motor up a little bit. Next, get your hydraulic floor jack and jack it up until its resting against the transmission. Remove the passenger side mount and the front mount bracket on the transmission, and then remove all the 17mm bolts that hold the transmission to the block, as well as the one more 19mm bolt at the back of the transmission that holds it to the rear mount. Now, you'll have to lower the engine and trans slowly and try to wiggle the trans off, but its going to be a pain in the ass because the engine bay is going to get in the way. I ended up having to drop the motor so far that it was at an angle before I could get the trans free.

Beware because the second you split the transmission from the block, its going to gush even more ATF because of the torque converter. So get some sort of container or a few towels. Once you get it free, lower the trans more and pull it out from under the car.

5A. Heat Shield - This is pretty easy.. If you look above the exhaust a little ways ahead of where the auto lines ran, you'll see a heat shield thats bolted to the bottom of the car. If you notice, it's going to be in the way of the manual shift linkage. Unbold this and do whatever you want with it.

6. Torque Converter and Flex Plate/Flywheel - To remove the torque converter, you need to remove the 8 10mm bolts at the back of the auto flex plate/flywheel that go into the converter. The easiest way to get to them all is to just rotate the whole motor using the torque converter with your hands. After those are out, be careful because the torque converter will want to just fall on you so try to hold it up with your hand or something. Next is the flex plate/flywheel. What you want to do is get access to your crank pulley, and put a screw driver through one of the holes toward the front of the motor, so that when your trying to loosen the flex plate bolts you dont rotate the motor. You go back under the car and break the flex plate bolts loose, you're going to need a 17mm 12point socket for this. Remove the bolts and pull the flex plate free.

7. Flywheel, Clutch, and Pressure Plate - This is pretty straight forward. If you haven't done it already, be sure to replace the pilot bearing with one you get in your new clutch kit. Anywho, before installing the flywheel you should move the screwdriver that you placed in the crankshaft pulley from the front, to the rear of the pulley so that you can tighten the flywheel down. When putting the flywheel on, be sure to use the bolts that you got from the junk yard. The bolts from the automatic flywheel are too short. Again, 17mm 12point is required. Be sure to do it in a cross pattern, not circular. After getting them tight, be sure to torque them down to 87 foot pounds.

Next is the Clutch and Pressure Plate. The clutch and pressure plate need to be installed together. Get your alignment tool ready as well. Put the clutch and pressure plate on together using the bolts you also got from the junk yard. They should be 10mm 12points. Tighten them down the same way as the flywheel (cross pattern), but make them barely tight enough to where you can still move the clutch around so you can use your alignment tool to get the clutch perfectly centered. After making sure your clutch is centered, tighten down all the bolts in the cross pattern to 20 foot pounds with your torque wrench.

8. Hydraulic Lines - I went ahead and started running my hydraulic lines after this while waiting for help to show up. To do this you'll need to remove your battery and battery tray so you can run the lines under it. Doing this is pretty straight forward, just remember to connect them tight otherwise they will leak. Generally a 10mm and 12mm line wrench makes this a LOT easier.

9. Manual Transmission - Installing the transmission is mostly simple. Lift the motor back up so its level, because the manual will fit in the engine bay easy as cake. Get the jack under the trans, and jack it up so it's level with the engine. Next you're just going to maneuver the transmission closer to the motor, and make sure that all the bolt holes and the the dowel pins are lined up correctly. If they're lined up correctly, the main shaft should slide right into the clutch assembly and the dowel pins will fit right in their holes and everything will line up. Try to keep from putting the weight of the transmission on the clutch assembly (ie: lowering the transmission without having it lined up correctly and bolted up). Once you get it on there, just reinstall all the bolts you removed from the auto into the same spots as removed (most can be switched around, namely the 17mm ones). I believe the correct torque specs for these bolts is 45 foot pounds for the upper bolts, and 50 foot pounds for the lower ones. If i'm wrong, someone correct me!

10. Mounts - This is pretty simple, just install the conversion mount the same way you removed the old automatic mount and you'll be good to go. You may or may not be able to use the automatic mount nut on one of the manual transmissions studs, but if this is the case, go to your local auto parts store and find a nut the same size without the flared end. It will work just fine. Install the front mount bracket the same way you removed the one off of the automatic, but the manual has 3 bolts instead of two, so I hope you grabbed the bolts when you got the bracket!

11. Slave Cylinder - Slave cylinder is simple. Bolt it up to the trans and then run the hydro lines to it.

[Acid X]

12. Shift linkage - Ok, this is a bit tricky. Try to find yourself some 12mm (head) bolts that are about 2 inches long, and some nuts to fit over them. Why? Because you have to drill some holes! Wee! If you look, right behind where the bolts closest to the rear for the auto shifter came through, there is two areas that look like there are supposed to be holes, but they are just covered. You need to drill a hole in those two spots a little bit wider than the threaded part of the bolts you decide to use. Next step is to get under the car and hook up the rear part of your shift linkage (ie, hook the shift linkage through those holes you just drilled). Next, hook up the stabilizer bar to the transmission. Now, in order to hook up the shifter part of the linkage to the tranny, you're going to need your hammer, your 8mm punch, and that roll pin I told you not to forget about in the parts list. Essentially you just slide the linkage on, line up the holes, and hammer the pin in there. Pretty simple.

13. Electrical - You've gotten this far huh? You're almost done!!! Good job.. Now comes the easiest stuff. Remember the electrical connectors I put in the parts list? Well, you're going to need them here. Lets start with the main stuff. Get the large automatic connector that I listed in the parts list, and connect it to the other end thats still connected to the car. Connect these wires as follows:

For reference use the connector pinout and diagram in link (4).

[14][13][12][11][10][9][8]
[7][6] [5]  [4] [3][2][1]

grn/wht (pos 8) + black (pos 7) = Make your car think its in park to release the key
yellow (pos 5) match yellow at reverse light connector @ trans
grn/blk (pos 4) match green at reverse light connector @ trans

The next thing you need to connect really depends on how you want to do it. If you like starting your car without using the clutch safety switch, then do the simple following:

THICK blk/red (pos 11) + THICK blk/wht (pos 12) = starter signal

If you want to hook up the clutch safety switch, you'll need to do some relay wiring. Your going to need a high amperage relay to do this, and generally you can find a good one on ebay. What I'm using is a SPDT (single pole doube throw) relay rated at 30/40 amps. Generally this is the best relay to use. If you're going to do the same, use the following diagram:

Tap into Fuse 31 [7.5a] (under dash) connect to Power on Clutch Switch

Relay Terminal # - Connection
85 - From GROUND wire off of clutch switch
86 - Connect to a ground somewhere
30 - Thick Blk/wht (pos 12) wire on AT connector
87 - Thick Blk/red (pos 11) wire on AT connector

After this, you should be unable to start the car without pushing in the clutch. If you don't tap into fuse 31 in the fuse block, be sure that you use another power source that is a low amperage when the ignition is in the starter position. I never got around to doing this, but this information should still be correct. If not, let me know.

14. Covering plate - So now comes the time to cover the extra, unnecessary holes in the center console area. This is really simple, just get a metal plate with some sort of noise proofing under it and use some self tapping screws or something similar. Be sure to cut a hole where the shifter is going to go, otherwise you wont be able to put the plate down.. Duh.

15. ECU - So this is the last piece of your swap that you actually have to put in! Yay! Just swap the manual ECU in for your old auto and wa-la.

Bleeding the clutch
Bleeding the clutch is basically the same as bleeding your brakes, except its going to be a bit harder because you have no fluid in the system at all. Basically what you're going to need is some DOT 3 brake fluid, and a friend with an 8mm or 10mm wrench depending on the size of the bleeder valve on your slave cylinder.

1. Start by putting fluid in the clutch reservoir, and leave the cap off.
2. Pump the crap out of the clutch pedal, have your friend watch the level. Once the level gets about half way down have your friend put more fluid in the reservoir.
3. Continue the above step until you start to feel a little bit of pressure in the pedal.
4. After you start building a bit of pressure, check the reservoir level and then have your friend go to the front of the car with the 10mm wrench, and help you bleed the system through the slave cylinder.
5. Pump the clutch 3 times and then hold it to the floor, tell your friend "ok" and have him open up the bleeder valve and then close it after the pressure fades away.
6. Repeat step 5 (while checking the fluid level every other bleed) until nothing but fluid comes out of the bleeder valve. This should mean your clutch system is bled and ready to go.

Conclusion
Well, you're basically done! Now all you need to do is put in the MTF (or 10w40) in your trans, and you should be ready to run. Be sure to double check all bolts and everything, make sure all the hydraulic lines aren't leaking, and make sure that all tools are out of the way before closing the hood to take your new manual trans out for a spin.

If theres anything you guys think I should add or remove or anything, let me know!

Updated 10/23/07

[Sundown]

Very good writeup..

did you take any pictures?

also, it seemed like it would have taken me FOREVER to swap out just the brake pedal. I have large hands, and I tried doing it that way, and it just was not going to work. Rep for you..

[Acid X]

Unfortunately no i dont have any pictures, but if there are any requests of anything specific i can try to get them.

The pedals are a pain in the ass no matter what though, unfortunately...

[NOSAJ]

Great job!
+rep

[fredboy]

I am going to swap my Ej1 next month so this will be really helpful. rep for you!

[Chucksta]

How much did it run you?

[fredboy]

O I forgot to ask do you have to change th iacv on a '93 ex?

[NeonPinHead]

the manual tranny mount wont line up with the frame? is the frame different on automatics?

[fredboy]

The mounting brackets are in different positions but I think the frames are the same. thats why companies like hasport have auto to manual conversion mounts

[Acid X]

Originally Posted by Chucksta

How much did it run you?

I haven't added it all up, but i got everything on really good deals.. Let me try to add it up real quick....

550 + some other necessary stuff like tools and a new jack because my friend broke my other one somehow..

Originally Posted by fredboy

O I forgot to ask do you have to change th iacv on a '93 ex?

No, the IACV does NOT have to be changed on the 92-95 whatsoever.

Originally Posted by NeonPinHead

the manual tranny mount wont line up with the frame? is the frame different on automatics?

The mounting bracket for the passenger side mount is pointing up at a 45 degree angle on the auto instead of coming straight out like the manual. So buying an aftermarket mount is required.

And thanks for the rep!!

ALSO i edited the parts needed a little bit. You dont need the manual center console.. You just need the shift boot with the shift boot bracket. It bolts right up to the automatic console.

[fredboy]

Is possible to just run a SS line as your clutch line?

[pandorasbox]

An SS line would only replace the rubber hose that connects to the slave from the hardline.

This is a great write up. When i did mine the procedure was basically the same with the exeption of aftermarket parts where i could.




If you pull the whole pedal assy you have to mess with the steering shaft so i would just recommend replacing the brake pedal. To the left of the brake you will see a cutout in the foam, pull this out and behind is a plug on the firewall, remove the nuts that hold it on and i beleive you can reuse those nuts for the clutch master.

As far as wiring goes its all been stated but what the car wants to see is a ground pulse on the park wire at the auto shifter plug (pic3 blue shrink tubed wire harness). All the rest can be taped off and/or cut with the exeption off the 2 large black wires. Those wires are the starter wires. All you need to do is connect those two together and your done, make damn sure tho that you have soldered and taped these good, there is some decent current running through these and they need to be well protected. All the rest of the wires are just the gear select wires that take a ground pulse.

Everything else is very straight forward and just a matter of bolting shit together. I would recommend removing the battery so you can get those clutch hardlines in as well.

Also auto tranny axles will work, no need to get manual ones they are the same.

Good luck everyone

[NeonPinHead]

any info on how to get the cruise control to work on the clutch? is it just as easy as splicing into the brake switch? when i do a swap or conversion of this sort i like to have factory functionality as if it came as manual. in my case i'm ditching the VX shell for the EX (power everything, fully loaded) so I have all nessasary parts minus the conversion mount...

[pandorasbox]

There are 2 switches on your clutch pedal and one controls the neutral safety switch and the other is for the cruise. Its a matter of figuring out which wire goes to which on the switch but you can just look up a schematic for that.

Please correct me if im wrong anyone.

[NeonPinHead]

i know that the top switch controls the cruise control i was just wondering what it connected to. well it doesn't matter i have a 94 Si in the garage also, i can figure it out by looking at that car it has cruise control and it's stick.

[Acid X]

Well, in response to all of you, if you check link #4 in the first post it has a pinout of the automatic shifter connector, and it tells you what wire to hook to the cruise switch.

The very top sensor at the back of the clutch pedal bracket (pointing up towards the fuse box) is the neutral safety isn't it? I'm assuming so because that is the only sensor i have on my pedal, and the car i pulled the pedal off of didn't have cruise control.

[dannycraq]

yo thanks man, i been looking for a good write up, cause im doing an auto to manual swap

im out here in diamond bar btw,

[civicseth]

Great write-up. I needed this a couple years ago when I did my swap.