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Old 12-26-2012, 07:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Best flywheel for a 250 -300+hp turbo car?.

I can't make up my mind which would be better to use. So to those who's already running one mind sharing your thoughts on this? I've read a couple threads about this on google but alot of kids just put random stuff on there.

So

Lightweight flywheel = Harder to launch, requires more gas to move, might be to light and stress the crank with high horses? Maybe it doesn't really matter? Pros: Accelerates faster once it starts going.

OEM flywheel = Easier to hook, smoother to drive, perfect match for the motor? Don't matter?
Cons: slower acceleration than the lightweight one?

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Old 12-26-2012, 07:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Competition Clutch makes a steel 11.5 lbs flywheel. I am using one and am very happy with it. It is lighter than stock (17lbs IIRC) but not too light like the 7-8 lbs ones.
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Fidanza is "free" traction control, 12lb range is more momentum after shifts.
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Old 12-26-2012, 08:49 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I had a 9 lbs flywheel, I was way way to jerky for stop and go traffic that i deal with. I currently have an ACT 11.5lbs wheel. Its the business, i love it, and its SFi approved for under 200$
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Can somebody help me pick my girlfriend, I can't figure out what one is better.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:14 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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^ lol but seriously, it's all going to depend on the feel that YOU like. Some people prefer the weight of a stock flywheel while others swear by the lighter ones. Others simply get the stocker shaved a bit...have any friends with a similar car with a lightened?
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Can somebody help me pick my girlfriend, I can't figure out what one is better.
That's not an applicable analogy. If you know anything about analogies you'd know why.
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:58 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I ran the 7.5lb Fidanza with my setup (similar to yours) for about 6 years. I liked it as I felt the OEM is too heavy when coupled with a short shifter.

I recently went to the ACT Streetlite (12lb) and I think its the best balance for street/strip.The motor still rev up/down quickly but it helps with staying in boost in betwen shifts.
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I would stick with stock or not go lighter than 12lbs and stick to 1 piece designs.
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by danz View Post
I would stick with stock or not go lighter than 12lbs and stick to 1 piece designs.

Thanks Dan I did resurfaced my stock one and is currently on my motor now. Love the thing very smooth operation "Except" the chatter stage 4 Cc clutch not really complaining either. I need to practice launching slicks best i got was 1.805 on my 22s, but then again my trans is fucked on my 12.1 run. I'm knocking on 11s door. Woot!!


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Old 06-25-2013, 07:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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've had an 8lb. aluminum flywheel on my CRX for years. I just drove it again after 7years of it sitting. Holy crap does the engine want to rev. I love it. heh

I will be running an 11lb. unit next to try it.

I happen to thnk that the flywheel weight should match the vehicle weight. A heavier car should have more stored energy in the flywheel to get the car moving.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:59 PM   #13 (permalink)
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've had an 8lb. aluminum flywheel on my CRX for years. I just drove it again after 7years of it sitting. Holy crap does the engine want to rev. I love it. heh

I will be running an 11lb. unit next to try it.

I happen to thnk that the flywheel weight should match the vehicle weight. A heavier car should have more stored energy in the flywheel to get the car moving.

I know exactly what you're saying i remember when i had my 7lbs. just harder to drive at the track. Mostly precise launching since i don't use two steps or any launch control i'm tuned on crome.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Flywheel weight needs to match the intended main race usage of the car, it's total weight with driver, clutch package, and engine output.

NA + 8 lb flywheel HURTS my drag racing 60' times. I have a 10.5 lb steel unit for a 2050 lbs CRX with driver and a "soft" clutch to go in.

Now if you auto crossing or roadracing, go light, too many engine transitions to not too.

I loved my old 12.5 lb unit for drag and DD in a 2300 lb car with driver. With soft clutch (Centerforce Dual Friction) I wouild launch off the limiter knowing the clutch wasn't gonna SLAM the tranny and break parts, it would slip just enough, even with 75 shot. When I went beyond that....well the clutch slipped 3-4 shift.
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:23 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Used the heaviest FW (EX) that I could get; 400whp setup with mainly drag times and some street use. Coupled with a sprung CC STG V, it was a fun setup.

But as usual, Bone had it right, it's all about the purpose of the vehicle that SHOULD determine what components are used.
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:47 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I have the clutch competition 8lbs flywheel with their stage 2 clutch and it super easy to drive. No jerking, no issues with over revving etc. Also I have not a single issue with launching at the track & streets ( no I don't race on the streets )

I do understand the pros and cons of a light vs heavier fly but I feel like its up to the drivers preferences and his/her ability to adapt/control whatever setup is used.

but I am currently NA and obviously there is a difference in power delivery in a boosted vs na but even then...it does towards what I said about how driver has to learn to adapt to drive the car.

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Old 06-28-2013, 05:29 PM   #17 (permalink)
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For a light street car with low gears I personally love the lightest I can go. I had a ~7lb Fidanza in a lightened 88 crx with a B16a1 and a LS tranny and loved it. The lighter the car, lower the gears and more low end the engine generates, the less flywheel weight you need on the street. I now have a 90 CRX with a B18c1 and matching hydro tranny and cant wait to switch from the stock flywheel to a featherweight one.

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I happen to thnk that the flywheel weight should match the vehicle weight. A heavier car should have more stored energy in the flywheel to get the car moving.
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Flywheel weight needs to match the intended main race usage of the car, it's total weight with driver, clutch package, and engine output.
When talking about drag racing I agree with TAB and Bone here, but what Bone kinda skims over is gear ratios and traction. Start with the stock flywheel and your traction and see how you feel about it. If it seems like your traction is WAY to low off the line, you can either work on suspension/tires or lower your flywheel weight. If you like your traction where it is, you are good.

In a nutshell: heavy flywheel = more stored energy, lightweight flywheel = faster energy produced. If you can make use of the stored energy efficiently, and have downtime to store it, heavier is good. If you cant make use of the stored energy, or dont have the downtime to store it, lighter is better.
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:38 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I hate my Fidanza, would rather go back to stock
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Old 07-23-2013, 02:58 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I hate my Fidanza, would rather go back to stock

I went back to stock so far no complaints car is in more smooth operation
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Old 07-23-2013, 03:39 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Stock or lightened stock for sure.
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