96-00 Civic Lower Control Arm Install - D-series.org

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Old 10-09-2009, 11:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 96-00 Civic Lower Control Arm Install

*MODS feel free to move this if its in the wrong section, or sticky it*

This Write up is for anyone who is planning on installing aftermarket Lower Control Arms or (LCA's for short) on there 96-00 Civic.

Tools needed or that you should have on hand just in case something goes wrong:

-14mm socket
-preferably 1/2" drive rachet if not 3/4 will work
-breaker bar
-impact gun (just in case)
-rubber mallet (just in case)
-grinder w/ cut off wheel (just in case)
-eye protection
-anti sieze
-pry bar (just in case)
-19mm for lugnuts(this may vary)
-lug nut key (if you have locking ones)
-PB Blaster

picture doesnt show everything but you get the idea:



STEP 1: Jack up car, set jack stands, lower car onto jack stands. my jack wasnt tall enough to use the full jack stands so i took out the adjuster arms and set the car down on just the frames.



STEP 2: Remove back wheels. simple enough.



STEP 3: now is the fun part!! spray down the front and back of the 3 bolts with PB Blaster or some kinda of penetrating oil. let it sit for like 5 or 10 minutes...next start with the breaker bar with a 14mm socket and the bolt that holds the Shock to the LCA. try and break it loose...if you succeed congrats and take the bolt out!!this one is one of the harder ones to take off along with the bolt that connects the LCA to the Trailing arm. if you snap the head off take your grinder and cut off wheels and cut the bolt as close to the LCA as possible.




Last edited by xxjdmcivicek9xx; 10-09-2009 at 12:02 PM.
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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STEP 4: Next Comes the Bolt that Connects the LCA to the Trailing Arm Repeat Step 3 with the breaker bar. if it comes out, SWEET and your doing better than i did with the driver side of my car...the passenger side went perfect and i didnt snap any heads off!!! but if you do snap it cut the bolt with the cutoff wheel.



STEP 5: The last bolt is the one that connects the LCA to the Subframe. usually its pretty easy to get so i just put my impact on it, to take it off. i had to use a swivel just because my exhaust is in the way... Now that all the bolts are out take a prybar or rubber mallet and pop the LCA out of its brackets.



STEP 6: Put the new LCA back in its place. I reused my old bolt that connected the OEM LCA to the Subframe but this time i put Anti Seize on the center section before installing it. this will be the first bolt you put back in.thread it in but dont tighten it down just yet.

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Old 10-09-2009, 11:47 AM   #3 (permalink)
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STEP 7: The next two bolts i replaced on my car because they were pretty rusted...anyway take the next bolt which will be for your LCA to Shock, put Anti Seize on it and thread it in but don't tighten it. then take your last bolt and do the same, Anti Seize and thread it in the LCA to Trailing Arm.







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Old 10-09-2009, 11:56 AM   #4 (permalink)
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STEP 8: Torque all 3 bolts down i started with the Sub frame and worked my way back to the Trailing arm. I pulled Torqe Specs out of my Haynes Manual which are 40 FT-LBS for all 3 bolts.



http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/7161/pictures040.jpg

STEP 9: Repeat for other side!!!

STEP 10: Put your wheels back on lower your car and enjoy your new eye candy!!

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Old 10-09-2009, 12:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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nice write up! :td:
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Old 10-10-2009, 08:22 AM   #6 (permalink)
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nice write up! :td:
Thanks i thought it be some good help for the newbies...that is if they search
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Old 10-11-2009, 09:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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one problem. you didnt talk about preloading the suspension nor did you seem to do it yourself. Those bushing are gonna go to shit no matter what you do but without properly setting them. Only hand tighten, place car on the ground, THAN torque to spec. This allows the bushings to be set with zero chance of binding. If you do it while in the air there is no load on the bushing and when it gets under load the bushing will bind and cut the life dramatically
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Old 10-11-2009, 09:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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so are the benefits of aftermarket lca's just reduced weight and bling?
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:37 AM   #9 (permalink)
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one problem. you didnt talk about preloading the suspension nor did you seem to do it yourself. Those bushing are gonna go to shit no matter what you do but without properly setting them. Only hand tighten, place car on the ground, THAN torque to spec. This allows the bushings to be set with zero chance of binding. If you do it while in the air there is no load on the bushing and when it gets under load the bushing will bind and cut the life dramatically
thanks for the info!!so how would you go about preloading the suspension?
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:49 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Only hand tighten, place car on the ground, THAN torque to spec. This allows the bushings to be set with zero chance of binding. If you do it while in the air there is no load on the bushing and when it gets under load the bushing will bind and cut the life dramatically
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thanks for the info!!so how would you go about preloading the suspension?
see above....
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
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so are the benefits of aftermarket lca's just reduced weight and bling?
yes to an extent. certain ones actually help reduce negative camber and ST made an ajustable one but good luck finding a set. Also if you didnt have a swaybar mounting hole, which all 96-00 do it allows that.
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:10 AM   #12 (permalink)
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nice write up

but a fyi toooo much anti seize is just as bad as none! you only need a light coating of it on the bolts.
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:13 AM   #13 (permalink)
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nice write up

but a fyi toooo much anti seize is just as bad as none! you only need a light coating of it on the bolts.
x2 and ain't you supposed to put it on the threads a lil too.
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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thanks for all the extra info to the install guide! i readjusted the lca bolts today and torqued them down after i lowered the car back onto the ground! i also wiped off some of the anti seize! and my endlinks came in so i put on my swaybar today!
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:11 PM   #15 (permalink)
my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
 
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ball in socket impact joint works better fyi i would invest in one those kind bind easy from my expirences

nice write up
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Old 10-15-2009, 01:55 PM   #16 (permalink)
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ball in socket impact joint works better fyi i would invest in one those kind bind easy from my expirences

nice write up
yeah my friend has a set of those and they are nice...Harbor Freight sells a set i might go pick up i think there only like 10 or 15$.
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Old 10-15-2009, 10:38 PM   #17 (permalink)
my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
 
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yeah my friend has a set of those and they are nice...Harbor Freight sells a set i might go pick up i think there only like 10 or 15$.
damn 6 bux over here
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Old 10-16-2009, 07:05 AM   #18 (permalink)
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damn 6 bux over here
thats cheap!
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Old 10-16-2009, 09:37 AM   #19 (permalink)
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i just reinstalled my blox LCAs with prothane/PIC bushings and putting the hub-end in first seemed to be easier. everything was a tighter snug with the new bushings. nice writeup.
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:08 PM   #20 (permalink)
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i realize this is an old how to thread but i didnt want to start a new one by asking what the bennefit of aftermarket lca's is
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