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Old 03-24-2008, 09:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 97ex coupe build. Pics included
Welcome to my thread!

1997 Honda civic ex coupe build.

When I originally wanted to build a Honda I wanted more power without sacrificing economy and maybe even approve upon it. Even though many said they are inversely proportional I choose to disagree. I originally wanted to build a jdm d15b with 3-stage vtec. Doing research on the 3-stage vtec I discovered the usdm vtec-e, the d15z1, d16b5 (gx) and the d16y5. In the beginning my noobness led me to believe that there was no aftermarket support for these little engines. Well more research and a few phone calls opened up a new world of opportunities. I realized that no aftermarket parts were listed because there is minimal, or seems to be minimal interest in the engines (except for Bense and a few others).


Knowing that I could build a y5 to my hearts content I set out to find one. I was able to pick one up semi-locally for $250 which may seem high but at the time it was way cheaper than jdm importers and it came with many extra parts. I first was going to swap it in right away, throw on some bolt-ons and call it a day. But, my “slight interest” turned into an obsession with the y5 build.


I first looked for a cam and was unable to find one. I was lucky enough to contact a very helpful guy in California (Amkrew) who informed me for vtec-e to engage the base circles of the intake lobes must be the same. Knowing this I contacted Bisi upon the recommendations of others and he said “No problem”. I described what I wanted out of my car, power with fuel economy in mind, so we decided upon a level 1.5.


So now that the power house was on it’s way I decided it would be nearly impossible to swap in to my car while having something to drive to school and work, so I begun to look for a shell to swap into preferably a hatch or coupe. I lucked out and a friend sold me the 97 ex in the pictures below for $300. Yeah cheap I know. When I got it, it wasn’t running. Well a cleared code later it started right up and has ever since.

Thanks for reading and here it goes!
Things I already have in Bold
Engine/Transmission:
D16y5 head
-P&p’d
-5-anlge valve job blended together
-Stainless valves
-Bisi level 1.5 cam
-Bisi cam gear
-Stiffer spring (not beehives)
-Factory roller rockers except secondary intake valve follower
-D15z1 valve cover
-D16z6/z1 dizzy. Still need jumper harness
-240 injectors
-Fuel rail
-Manual y5 IM c stock TB
-Cheap C.A.I.
-still undecided on compression

D16y5 Block
-Stock crank, rods and p2m pistons
-P2m pistons have been ceramic coated
-O.E.M Honda bearings and thrust washer
-New water pump
-Endyn upgraded oil pump for y engines
-Arp rod bolts

Exhaust:
-Heat wrapped Hedmann Chikira
-2” pipe to rear c Flowmaster

Transmission:
Bone spec
-Dx/lx 4.058 FD
-Stock 1st and 2nd
-Zc 3rd and 4th
-Hf 5th
-13lb flywheel balanced to nascar specs soon to come
-Probably going with a Sachs Clutch

ECU:
-Chipped and tuned by Amkrew
-obd2a to obd1 harness by rywire

Suspension:
-Lowered about 2"
-Homemade strut tower bars on the way

Body/Exterior:
-Homemade black housing headlights TU:
-15” Konig heliums
-Maybe a lip

Interior:
-Homemade 7th gen. headrests to fit 6th gen. seats in the works
Done

Aerodynamics:
Saving this stuff for the coupe so I can check it off as done :0
 Since this is a project car I believe it should serve as a learning tool for others and I. And everything in this category is a maybe.
-Smaller mirrors
-Grill guard (yeah a gassavers.org idea)
-I was also wanting to reduce drag on the rear bumper by making my own diffuser via either two elongated holes about 3” high that cross the span of the bumper with about a 2” gap in between. Or three elongated holes that mock the shape and angles of the taillights and the license plate holder also only about 3” tall.



Well for those of you who read through this I would like to thank you. Any constructive criticism or input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

UPDATE: I was going to use the two door as my swap candidate but, decided that if I choose the 4door.
Reasons:
Clutch is almost brand new and still has lots of life
Flywheel has already been lightened
No manual swap required
Plus by doing the swap to the four door it will save me lots of time and money and I will have time to get it done right.
4 door has a rod knock so it's already broke.



This is the new contender


Last edited by christopher_davis; 04-10-2008 at 08:16 AM.
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Old 03-24-2008, 11:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Rep'd nice ride, shave the trunk of it's rice and your good to go, lower it too please!
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Old 03-25-2008, 04:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Rep'd nice ride, shave the trunk of it's rice and your good to go, lower it too please!
Lowering it is on the to do list. Yeah the trunk is as is when i bought it.
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Old 03-25-2008, 04:51 AM   #4 (permalink)
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nice car! gl with that build.
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Old 03-25-2008, 07:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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nice car! gl with that build.
yeah, i wanna see the build too! you have a nice car to start with
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:29 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Well damn its about time ...did you ever get those part is sent you ???
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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sounds like a nice build, shave the trunk or carbon fiber,jk. and lower it for sure.
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Old 03-29-2008, 01:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Update with a change of plans. Life happens LOL
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Old 04-03-2008, 12:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ordered some of the last parts today:
-Complete gasket kit
-Hastings 75mm standard bore rings
-y-series water pump

Also the machine shop called:
-Block has been honed
-Head is ported (finally Oh my it took forever)
-Pistons have been ceramic coated as well

I Feel like there's light at the end of the tunnel[biggrinsanta.gif]
Pics will come sometime in the near future!
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:24 AM   #10 (permalink)
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First off I cleaned out my side of the garage and re-claimed it
Here is where my car is suppose to park anyways.


Here is the crusty engine bay that we started looking at last night:
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:25 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Here is what it looked like when we called it a night:


I did go through with tape and mark every single connector to it's original place. When I go to put this back together I wan't it to go as smoothly as possible I figured every little thing I can do now would help:
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:25 AM   #12 (permalink)
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And just for fun guys here's a video of the y7 breathing it's last breate (at least in this form LOL):
Last edited by christopher_davis; 04-10-2008 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:46 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Does anyone know what size the axel nut is?
31mm or 33mm
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:11 AM   #14 (permalink)
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33mm
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:20 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Does anyone know what size the axel nut is?
31mm or 33mm
its 32. just did one yesterday.
FYI its also 1 1/4 if you have that.
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:03 AM   #16 (permalink)
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^X2 on the 32mm! Broke two Craftsmen breaker bars with a 32mm socket trying to loosen an axle nut.
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Old 04-09-2008, 05:15 PM   #17 (permalink)
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^X2 on the 32mm! Broke two Craftsmen breaker bars with a 32mm socket trying to loosen an axle nut.
Wow. We have the Self help Auto Center on post. 5 bucks an hr you get a bay with a lift and can sign out any tool that you may need including impact guns. At least Craftsman offers lifetime warranty.
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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lookn like its coming along well --- gl with the rest
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:21 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks guys!

It is so close to come out now I just have a few more things to go over. If it's not out tomorrow it should be out Saturday
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:31 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Wow. We have the Self help Auto Center on post. 5 bucks an hr you get a bay with a lift and can sign out any tool that you may need including impact guns. At least Craftsman offers lifetime warranty.
what?!? $5?!? at fort knox it was only 1.25 (per hour on lift bays) and here at langley afb its 2.50 (per hour on lift bays)
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