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Old 05-02-2011, 02:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default My damn oil pan drain bolt wont stop leaking

As the title says I am pissed it was leaking before and I replaced the drain bolt and put a metal washer on and it seems like its leaking more WTF


Anyone have any ideas maybe my pan is stripped IDK
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can you tell me how to hook up a vtech switch?
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but if i hook up the vtech i can have it at like whatever rpms i want right?
like vtech all the time? will it pop louder?
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Old 05-02-2011, 02:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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my guess would be the pan bolt hole or bolt is stripped...
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Old 05-02-2011, 03:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Ya, the fix would be to buy a new Oil pan.

The patch would be to wrap the plug bolt in some teflon tape.
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Old 05-02-2011, 03:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I guess this would work temporarily; but I use it permantly on my Accord which was stripped(thanks previous owner/Pep Boys)

Advance Auto Parts: Universal Oil Drain Plug by Dorman - Help - Part 65109

Just be careful not to overtighten it; it doesn't take much to seal.
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Old 05-02-2011, 03:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Ya, the fix would be to buy a new Oil pan.

The patch would be to wrap the plug bolt in some teflon tape.
when using teflon, theres a certain one used for engine applications/ high heat. learned my lesson the hard time once with plumber's teflon (what was I thinking!)
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Old 05-02-2011, 03:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awebb View Post
Ya, the fix would be to buy a new Oil pan.

The patch would be to wrap the plug bolt in some teflon tape.
I've used teflon for this a bunch of times. Just be sure to use one thats compatible with oil.
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Old 05-02-2011, 03:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by K2e2vin View Post
I guess this would work temporarily; but I use it permantly on my Accord which was stripped(thanks previous owner/Pep Boys)

Advance Auto Parts: Universal Oil Drain Plug by Dorman - Help - Part 65109

Just be careful not to overtighten it; it doesn't take much to seal.
omg wtf, lol
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Old 05-02-2011, 06:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,
i know we use these up at the job but it somewhat of a temporary fix because it can come out after unscrewing it time and time again. or as awebb said new oil is in order for ya. just remember honda sales crush washers and if you dont replace them after every oil change, trans drain and fill, it can mess your threads all up, and definately DONT not use one.
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Old 05-02-2011, 07:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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there is a torque spec on drain plugs for a reason people.

As far as yours being toasted, you can just get a cutter bolt or a piggy back and use it. (piggy back with some JB in the threads would probably be your best bet)
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Old 05-02-2011, 07:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Fill that hole and weld a new bung on? Probably easier ways.
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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ok start with the obvious. is it a new metal washer, or an actual honda crush washer?
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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ok start with the obvious. is it a new metal washer, or an actual honda crush washer?
i fixed the leak... but i got the drain bolt and washer from autozone idk if its a crush washer, it probably isnt...

but what i did since autozone gave me the damn wrong bolt to begin with was get a new one which was about 1/4 inch longer and has more threads, i put some rtv at the base of the crush washer and very little at the base of the threads and no more leak shit was pissing me off though
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12ozwrecker View Post
can you tell me how to hook up a vtech switch?
i want it on the new steering wheel i got at pep boys. have you seen it its sick!
but if i hook up the vtech i can have it at like whatever rpms i want right?
like vtech all the time? will it pop louder?
Quote:
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Just hook it up to a clapper and slap yourself in the face everytime you race......
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Old 05-03-2011, 07:32 PM   #13 (permalink)
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ok start with the obvious. is it a new metal washer, or an actual honda crush washer?
.. I thoughts the same..
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:24 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Idk out rtv on the pan plug. I'd keep an eye on it. Park somewhere where you can see drips when you pull out. Or use the cardboard trick lol
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:44 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siregcivic View Post
autozone
That's your problem. A Honda oil pan bolt and crush washer are like $1.50. I usually buy a few at a time to have spares on hand. Like cmgogo said, there is a torque setting for a reason. This is especially important for those that have aluminum pans. They are an expensive replacement part.
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Old 05-05-2011, 02:22 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Or use the pull out trick lol

Fixed.
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Old 05-05-2011, 03:10 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Silicone sealant will be fine as a temporary fix.

To determine the permanent fix you need to know the problem. No information here to date identified the problem.

It is most likely a damaged thread. If so is it the bolt or the bung.

It might be a damaged sealing surface on the on the bung or bolt or washer.

Bungs can't read so it will not be able to see a Honda brand name written on the washer. Any correct size crush washer will do, however a Honda dealer is probably the easiest way to ensure you get the correct size. A nylon washer can also work if sealing surfaces are OK.

If the thread on the bolt is damaged, replace the bolt.

If the thread on the bung is damaged replace the bung and the bolt. I personally would not repair a bung with the pan on the engine. Pull the pan, clean everything then cut out the old bung and weld in a new one. It can be any brand or reasonable size and thread, so long as you use the matching nut and washer. Heck, you could even weld in a tapered pipe thread and use a tapered pipe plug from a hardware store if you want to be like that. It is simply a device to let oil out then keep oil in.

Teflon tape comes in 3 grades here:-

1) White or extruded tape. It is cheap general purpose tape and the Teflon particles are not strongly fused so it is soft and porous and stringy when stretched. It de-laminates easily. I don't use it for anything.

2) Pink or skived tape. This is a bit thicker and properly moulded so the Teflon is fully fused. it looks feels and is more robust and stronger. That is what I normally use. It works fine with water or fuel or oil.

3) Yellow skived tape or gas grade. This is specified for use with natural gas or propane gas. It is like pink tape but made to higher standards re strength and thickness. It can be to thick for some fittings but so long as it fits, it is very good for sealing anything.
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