Tiny tiny metal flakes in oil pan d16z6 - D-series.org

braxtonsag · 08-01-2010, 03:37 PM

i recently boosted the car but iv had the charge pipe disconnected until i get a tune. i pulled the oil pan today because the return line bung was leaking because the weld wasnt completely sealed. as i got to shaking the oil pan once it was off, down in the very bottom there was tiny metal shavings/flakes. iv been reading online and other forums say its most likely bearings. the kid that sold me the car told me the engine had 30,000 miles on it. could these be just parts of casting from the engine break in when it was new or should i grab a set of bearings? and i keep hearing bad things about autozone(even though every part iv gotten from them was legit) but should i order the bearings from honda or from autozone?

ryan89crx · 08-01-2010, 03:45 PM

Every person that sells a Honda claims the motor has 30-50k, and 9 out of 10 are talking out of their ass.

How big are the flakes? You really shouldn't have any metal at all in the oil pan, and my first inclination would be that the bearings are going. I would order some ACLs off eBay and start there.

braxtonsag · 08-01-2010, 03:46 PM

yeah true that, but theyr tiny, they actually look like little pieces of glitter

jimmyb34 · 08-01-2010, 03:47 PM

ive always wondered where all these 40k motors come from... everybody has 100k+ on their civic and integras that they come out of... but the motors they pull to sell only have half the mileage??

id say you have a motor with alot more miles on it than you think and also how long have you been riding around with the ic piping off? thats ok for a little while but your going to damage other parts if you continue

braxtonsag · 08-01-2010, 03:51 PM

litteraly one day. i parked it because of the oil leak. and i plan on getting the tune very soon

boostedsohc · 08-01-2010, 03:54 PM

well instead of a tune id worry about your bearings first!
id get a rebuild first thing!

immajackuup · 08-01-2010, 04:10 PM

had that problem a year ago. what i did is fix rear main seal/drop pan to clean,fill the bitch back up with synthetic mobil 1 oil,then beat on the motor, motor still running strong every day.

motor is at 170k right now,if that metal shaving came from rod bearing shit should already be knocking.

Very little metal shaving in oil

spelts-face · 08-01-2010, 04:28 PM

just get a magnetic drain plug that way the shavings 1) wont be floating around causing more damage and 2) see how much particals there actualy are in the oil. but your best bet would be to take it apart and check bearings etc.

braxtonsag · 08-01-2010, 04:53 PM

so basically check the bearings, clean the pan, and put synthetic in and go about my day?

EDIT: im an idiot. i forgot we didnt clean the oil pan out after we drilled the hole for the return line bung. thank god i havent drove the car with this pan on. all the shavings are from drilling into the oil pan.

BLK92_D16 · 08-01-2010, 05:50 PM

^Ding ding! Thank you for finding that out before starting it up! Your motor will thank you later. LOL!

Black91CRXsi · 08-01-2010, 06:06 PM

Agreed, best to fix the problem now before maximum damage has been done. Good Eye.

crxdonwon · 08-01-2010, 06:10 PM

You have been promoted to Captain Obvious!! LOL

braxtonsag · 08-01-2010, 06:11 PM

BUT now i have another problem. this is the SECOND time iv had the return line bung welded and it STILL leaks. is there anything i can put around the weld to stop these damn leaks? iv tried jb stik and it just peeled off. im thinking of red rtv next but im tired of spending useless money. any suggestions?!

Pata · 08-01-2010, 06:23 PM

I say take that oil pan to a better welder. Who ever is doing it for you sucks at welding. Either that or your return line is leaking and you can't tell and your blaming it on the bung holio?

BLK92_D16 · 08-01-2010, 06:41 PM

Sounds like you have two problems :

#1 : bad welder or bad welding machine

#2 : JB weld should work, you just have to prep the surface first. I can only guess why it peeled off was because the surface was oily and the prep portion of the application process was passed over.

grumpz92eg · 08-03-2010, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spelts-face

just get a magnetic drain plug that way the shavings 1) wont be floating around causing more damage and 2) see how much particals there actualy are in the oil. but your best bet would be to take it apart and check bearings etc.

can those magnetic drain plugs be found in any local autoparts or dealer only?

PiKapp504 · 08-04-2010, 04:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grumpz92eg

can those magnetic drain plugs be found in any local autoparts or dealer only?

Any local autoparts store. Your local Advance Auto should have em, cuz that's where I got mine.

danz · 08-04-2010, 09:51 AM

spray the pan around the bung with brake clean. then put JB weld over it. it shouldnt flake off unless u didnt clean it.

braxtonsag · 08-04-2010, 10:47 AM

problem solved, i stopped going to the same guy to weld it. took it to an exhaust shop and they almost shit a brick with all the "meat" on the weld haha. they heated it up, smeared it around, then patched any holes left over all for only $10. but yeah the guy had a shitty old mig welder so i just stopped going over there

08-01-2010, 03:37 PM	#1 (permalink)
braxtonsag D-series soldier iTrader: (13) Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: indianapolis Posts: 718 Rep Power: 3	Tiny tiny metal flakes in oil pan d16z6 i recently boosted the car but iv had the charge pipe disconnected until i get a tune. i pulled the oil pan today because the return line bung was leaking because the weld wasnt completely sealed. as i got to shaking the oil pan once it was off, down in the very bottom there was tiny metal shavings/flakes. iv been reading online and other forums say its most likely bearings. the kid that sold me the car told me the engine had 30,000 miles on it. could these be just parts of casting from the engine break in when it was new or should i grab a set of bearings? and i keep hearing bad things about autozone(even though every part iv gotten from them was legit) but should i order the bearings from honda or from autozone?

08-01-2010, 03:45 PM	#2 (permalink)
ryan89crx Lifetime Awesome Member iTrader: (80) Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Tri-Cities, Washington Posts: 25,557 Rep Power: 434 View My Photo Gallery	Every person that sells a Honda claims the motor has 30-50k, and 9 out of 10 are talking out of their ass. How big are the flakes? You really shouldn't have any metal at all in the oil pan, and my first inclination would be that the bearings are going. I would order some ACLs off eBay and start there. __________________ My CRX 12.87@109mph Xbox 360 gamertag - TurboDiesel598 Delta Cam, best bang for your buck! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../made_Ryan.png

08-01-2010, 04:10 PM	#7 (permalink)
immajackuup All powerful D-series member iTrader: (0) Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: houston,Texas,fuck yall Posts: 3,459 Rep Power: 9	had that problem a year ago. what i did is fix rear main seal/drop pan to clean,fill the bitch back up with synthetic mobil 1 oil,then beat on the motor, motor still running strong every day. motor is at 170k right now,if that metal shaving came from rod bearing shit should already be knocking. Very little metal shaving in oil Last edited by immajackuup; 08-01-2010 at 04:18 PM.

08-01-2010, 04:53 PM	#9 (permalink)
braxtonsag D-series soldier iTrader: (13) Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: indianapolis Posts: 718 Rep Power: 3	so basically check the bearings, clean the pan, and put synthetic in and go about my day? EDIT: im an idiot. i forgot we didnt clean the oil pan out after we drilled the hole for the return line bung. thank god i havent drove the car with this pan on. all the shavings are from drilling into the oil pan. Last edited by braxtonsag; 08-01-2010 at 05:09 PM.

08-01-2010, 06:06 PM	#11 (permalink)
Black91CRXsi All powerful D-series member iTrader: (17) Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 4,397 Rep Power: 23 View My Photo Gallery	Agreed, best to fix the problem now before maximum damage has been done. Good Eye. __________________ Build what you got... 91' CRX Si All motor A6 running 14.67@93.87mph (old build). My current build: http://d-series.org/forums/engine-bu...n-rebuild.html "I don't want it. I just need it. To feel, to breathe, to know I'm alive." Resident Otaku!!! Gimme that zettai ryouiki!!! R.I.P - Pat Primmer

08-01-2010, 03:46 PM	#3 (permalink)
braxtonsag D-series soldier iTrader: (13) Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: indianapolis Posts: 718 Rep Power: 3	yeah true that, but theyr tiny, they actually look like little pieces of glitter

08-01-2010, 03:51 PM	#5 (permalink)
braxtonsag D-series soldier iTrader: (13) Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: indianapolis Posts: 718 Rep Power: 3	litteraly one day. i parked it because of the oil leak. and i plan on getting the tune very soon

08-01-2010, 04:28 PM	#8 (permalink)
spelts-face wise in the ways of the D iTrader: (3) Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Washington State Posts: 1,766 Rep Power: 8 View My Photo Gallery	just get a magnetic drain plug that way the shavings 1) wont be floating around causing more damage and 2) see how much particals there actualy are in the oil. but your best bet would be to take it apart and check bearings etc.

08-01-2010, 05:50 PM	#10 (permalink)
BLK92_D16 D-series G0D iTrader: (78) Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 12,776 Rep Power: 19 View My Photo Gallery	^Ding ding! Thank you for finding that out before starting it up! Your motor will thank you later. LOL!

08-01-2010, 06:10 PM	#12 (permalink)
crxdonwon D-series PIMP iTrader: (6) Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Ward, Arkansas Posts: 1,034 Rep Power: 4	You have been promoted to Captain Obvious!! LOL

08-01-2010, 06:11 PM	#13 (permalink)
braxtonsag D-series soldier iTrader: (13) Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: indianapolis Posts: 718 Rep Power: 3	BUT now i have another problem. this is the SECOND time iv had the return line bung welded and it STILL leaks. is there anything i can put around the weld to stop these damn leaks? iv tried jb stik and it just peeled off. im thinking of red rtv next but im tired of spending useless money. any suggestions?!

08-01-2010, 06:23 PM	#14 (permalink)
Pata \/ apply baby lotion here \/ iTrader: (134) Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: City of Angels Posts: 10,929 Rep Power: 34 View My Photo Gallery	I say take that oil pan to a better welder. Who ever is doing it for you sucks at welding. Either that or your return line is leaking and you can't tell and your blaming it on the bung holio? __________________ Get your 'd-series.org sticker' HERE

08-01-2010, 06:41 PM	#15 (permalink)
BLK92_D16 D-series G0D iTrader: (78) Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 12,776 Rep Power: 19 View My Photo Gallery	Sounds like you have two problems : #1 : bad welder or bad welding machine #2 : JB weld should work, you just have to prep the surface first. I can only guess why it peeled off was because the surface was oily and the prep portion of the application process was passed over.

08-04-2010, 10:47 AM	#19 (permalink)
braxtonsag D-series soldier iTrader: (13) Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: indianapolis Posts: 718 Rep Power: 3	problem solved, i stopped going to the same guy to weld it. took it to an exhaust shop and they almost shit a brick with all the "meat" on the weld haha. they heated it up, smeared it around, then patched any holes left over all for only $10. but yeah the guy had a shitty old mig welder so i just stopped going over there

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