Oil Return with an fittings. will this work fine? - D-series.org

v-tecivic · 02-07-2010, 10:16 PM

im sending my block out soon for machine work, so i mocked my turbo setup to see how it fits. im using a go-autoworks manifold and it sits kind of low. i have a bunch of different fittings and this is all i could come up with.

this is how the oil return line is routed. will it be ok? im sure it will be fine, just need some opinions.

i did have a fitting welded on the pan already, but it was on there from a different manifold setup.

Chrisfrom1986 · 02-07-2010, 10:32 PM

That maybe ok, but ideally you want something that goes straight and only down. Right at the pan it angles up, thats not going to be good for a gravity drain.

cervan · 02-07-2010, 10:36 PM

weld a 45 degree angle going in and then cut a section of hose for it.

Chrisfrom1986 · 02-07-2010, 11:51 PM

cervan · 02-08-2010, 12:19 AM

actually to be honest i wouldnt even mess with AN connections at this point, your so close they would be cumbersome. i would suggest getting two barbed fittings one alluminum and one steel/brass to put into the turbo flange. then running some high heat tubing to the pan.

stiffdogg06 · 02-08-2010, 02:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cervan

actually to be honest i wouldnt even mess with AN connections at this point, your so close they would be cumbersome. i would suggest getting two barbed fittings one alluminum and one steel/brass to put into the turbo flange. then running some high heat tubing to the pan.

+1

I ran AN fittings for a few weeks last season and I took them off because I barely had 1/2" of braided line showing. I'll be running barbed fittings.

v-tecivic · 02-08-2010, 05:34 AM

maybe when i get off work i'll run to the hardware store and pick up some barb fittings. i could probably use the AN fittings for a catch can setup instead.

danz · 02-08-2010, 11:05 AM

id use heater hose for that.

preferably a formed 90 degree 5/8ths heater hose.

99ctrhatch · 02-08-2010, 11:52 AM

just get braided stainless line

speedfoos · 02-08-2010, 12:33 PM

^^^ I hate braided stainless line. Shit always messes up your fingers and is a pain to work with. Barbed hose ends and rubber line FTW. You can always wrap it with lock wire to help keep it from collapsing.

Anonymoussquid · 02-08-2010, 01:58 PM

clock the turbo so the drain is more up and down that would help with this a lot imo.

ryan89crx · 02-08-2010, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danz

id use heater hose for that.

preferably a formed 90 degree 5/8ths heater hose.

Heater hose isn't too keen on oil. Tends to swell up and eventually split

Speedjunky01 · 02-08-2010, 02:26 PM

first setup will work just fine, think about it the turbo is above the top of the oil level, as long as the end of the drain is above the center section of the turbo it will drain fine

patprimmer · 02-08-2010, 02:37 PM

I would braze a steel barbed fitting to the pan at 45 deg and line it up directly below the turbo pretty much like cervan says.

I would use oil or fuel grade rubber line. I don't know if you have Pirtek there, but here they are a chain of industrial hose and fitting specialists and they have a grade of hose called R6 or R600 that is graet for oil lines. They also have a range of steel push on type fittings for it.

Boosted-EH-804 · 02-08-2010, 03:46 PM

Have you thought about push loc but it is really stupid tight might be best finding some hose that can handle oil and do the barbed fitting thing.

scottdh20 · 02-09-2010, 03:35 AM

barbed fittings plus rubber line FTMFW!!! mine was close, just about the same as yours, i had a hole oil line kit...feed and return, i scraped the return in favor of rubber hose, 10000x easier to get a good angle on it and works just fine. my buddies 9 sec maxima runs a rubber return line

Sohc52 · 02-09-2010, 04:49 AM

Maybe u have to try to relocate the bung which u welded on. then let it flow just downwards. It would be much better if the oil was flowing straight instead of doing the loop to the left.

Try using these. Fit those and then see the best position then reweld the bung to accomadate it. Maybe u might need to extend with a hose too. I forsee the fitting being alittle short.

02-07-2010, 10:16 PM	#1 (permalink)
v-tecivic D-Series cadet iTrader: (2) Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: just south of STL, mo Posts: 467 Rep Power: 6	Oil Return with an fittings. will this work fine? im sending my block out soon for machine work, so i mocked my turbo setup to see how it fits. im using a go-autoworks manifold and it sits kind of low. i have a bunch of different fittings and this is all i could come up with. this is how the oil return line is routed. will it be ok? im sure it will be fine, just need some opinions. i did have a fitting welded on the pan already, but it was on there from a different manifold setup.

02-07-2010, 10:32 PM	#2 (permalink)
Chrisfrom1986 94 R-81 VX type R iTrader: (30) Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Fresno, CA Posts: 2,691 Rep Power: 15	That maybe ok, but ideally you want something that goes straight and only down. Right at the pan it angles up, thats not going to be good for a gravity drain. __________________ 94 R-81 VX My OFFICIAL dirt cheap build Pool ball shift knobs FS

02-07-2010, 11:51 PM	#4 (permalink)
Chrisfrom1986 94 R-81 VX type R iTrader: (30) Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Fresno, CA Posts: 2,691 Rep Power: 15	__________________ 94 R-81 VX My OFFICIAL dirt cheap build Pool ball shift knobs FS

02-08-2010, 11:05 AM	#8 (permalink)
danz 6262 > Holset iTrader: (6) Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Mission Raceway Posts: 8,301 Rep Power: 21	id use heater hose for that. preferably a formed 90 degree 5/8ths heater hose. __________________ my EJ6 build thread here! 2010 - 11.225@120.82mph - Z6 2009 - 10.912@127.33mph - A6 Special thanks to ColtCams.com and Go-Autoworks.com!

02-08-2010, 12:33 PM	#10 (permalink)
speedfoos All powerful D-series member iTrader: (14) Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Fatalville, NC Posts: 3,113 Rep Power: 14	^^^ I hate braided stainless line. Shit always messes up your fingers and is a pain to work with. Barbed hose ends and rubber line FTW. You can always wrap it with lock wire to help keep it from collapsing. __________________ WTB: Tunertoys Water neck adapter. PM me. 2010 Ford Edge 2004 Nissan Frontier "Super Bunny" 1966 Volvo Amazon "Lucille" - 383 Stroker Build!!!

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02-08-2010, 05:34 AM	#7 (permalink)
v-tecivic D-Series cadet iTrader: (2) Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: just south of STL, mo Posts: 467 Rep Power: 6	maybe when i get off work i'll run to the hardware store and pick up some barb fittings. i could probably use the AN fittings for a catch can setup instead.

02-08-2010, 11:52 AM	#9 (permalink)
99ctrhatch wise in the ways of the D iTrader: (12) Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Space needle Posts: 1,668 Rep Power: 6 View My Photo Gallery	just get braided stainless line

02-08-2010, 01:58 PM	#11 (permalink)
Anonymoussquid D-series PIMP iTrader: (25) Join Date: May 2008 Location: Western Wa Posts: 1,399 Rep Power: 5	clock the turbo so the drain is more up and down that would help with this a lot imo. __________________ 1990 Civic Si turbo build thread up click here! DIY:TPS cal.

02-08-2010, 02:26 PM	#13 (permalink)
Speedjunky01 All powerful D-series member iTrader: (32) Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Franklin,NH Posts: 4,284 Rep Power: 9 View My Photo Gallery	first setup will work just fine, think about it the turbo is above the top of the oil level, as long as the end of the drain is above the center section of the turbo it will drain fine __________________ resident verbal assault tech Jr. 240,000 miles and counting turbo EH9 nothing like 4drs, ac,moon roof, and 4 whores and running 13psi out or a ching chong t3/t4 setup the build http://www.d-series.org/forums/force...-teh-4doh.html if it survives the winter JdM d15b+Vitara+FJT+25psi= professional tranny assassin, 2 stock diffs in 4 weeks on street tires and preload was used

02-08-2010, 02:37 PM	#14 (permalink)
patprimmer wise in the ways of the D iTrader: (1) Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Sydney Australia Posts: 1,961 Rep Power: 3 View My Photo Gallery	I would braze a steel barbed fitting to the pan at 45 deg and line it up directly below the turbo pretty much like cervan says. I would use oil or fuel grade rubber line. I don't know if you have Pirtek there, but here they are a chain of industrial hose and fitting specialists and they have a grade of hose called R6 or R600 that is graet for oil lines. They also have a range of steel push on type fittings for it. __________________ Regards Pat

02-08-2010, 03:46 PM	#15 (permalink)
Boosted-EH-804 Back in business bitches iTrader: (38) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Richmond,Va Posts: 11,532 Rep Power: 28 View My Photo Gallery	Have you thought about push loc but it is really stupid tight might be best finding some hose that can handle oil and do the barbed fitting thing. __________________ RCautoworks 6262 + D2b= Back on track Special thanks to James@ SpeedFactory,Bob@ RcAutoworks and Bisimoto

02-09-2010, 03:35 AM	#16 (permalink)
scottdh20 D-series post SLUT iTrader: (3) Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: g-rap aka grand rapids, mi Posts: 2,185 Rep Power: 4	barbed fittings plus rubber line FTMFW!!! mine was close, just about the same as yours, i had a hole oil line kit...feed and return, i scraped the return in favor of rubber hose, 10000x easier to get a good angle on it and works just fine. my buddies 9 sec maxima runs a rubber return line __________________ boosted jdm d15b/ b7 head/ si tranny 13.94 @ 93.44mph broke @ 1000' marker BUILD THREAD > http://d-series.org/forums/showcase/...ect-d15b7.html sellers: hondacory ; Birdley97EKHB08

02-09-2010, 04:49 AM	#17 (permalink)
Sohc52 Member iTrader: (0) Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 85 Rep Power: 0	Maybe u have to try to relocate the bung which u welded on. then let it flow just downwards. It would be much better if the oil was flowing straight instead of doing the loop to the left. Try using these. Fit those and then see the best position then reweld the bung to accomadate it. Maybe u might need to extend with a hose too. I forsee the fitting being alittle short.

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