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#61 (permalink) |
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D-series soldier
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Put moly lube on the threads that go into the block or no?
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330whp/250ftlbs D16Y8 GT3076R 18psi - 2009 434whp/332ftlbs D16Y8 GT3076R 27psi Meth Fed - 2010 Thanks to those who have made my goals achievable: Slow Motion Motorsports, The Horsepower Farm, Mista Bone, Go-Autoworks, D-series.org, Bisimoto. |
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#62 (permalink) |
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who is this chick..?
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i just installed my ARP's last friday...
i put the ARP molly-lube on all studs going into the block and the nuts, i torqued them all down to 20 foot pounds then, straight to 65, then i hit them all again to be sure...
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HF.Blue Jack Crew H.E.A.R.T Honda Enthusiasts Against Ricer Trash |
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#64 (permalink) |
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D-series lover
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yes clean out threads in the block thoroughly, like take brake cleaner and spray the holes, run a tap through if you have it..spray compressed air. there should be nothing inside those threads..if they budge while your torquing the nuts, you have to start over again, because now torque reading will be inaccurate.
lubricate them in the block.
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My Build Thread and Timeline http://d-series.org/forums/showcase/...r-gt3076r.html 1998 civic lx-T d16z6, GT3076r, viataras, FJ rods, supertech springs/retainers, bisi 2.4 turbo cam, Exospeed star8's wrapped in 23" MT's |
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#65 (permalink) |
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n00b
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I didnt read the entire thread because it is too long and i dont like to read lol but i fully built mine and i simply put them in and tightened straight to 60 lbs, personally i would not torque any more then that simply because it can make u very nervous. around 45 lbs i started to hear the bolt popping and that is not a good feeling at all. I have forged internals all the way and a +.20 overbore and i am doing fine on just 60 lbs....just thought i would lend a hand
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#66 (permalink) |
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n00b
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i did mine yesterday morning at 22 then 49 on my b7 with a new felpro and it is holding fine not to mention stock studs got re-used for lack of a way to get new ones in a hurry. runs like a honda still so im happy
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97 Civic DX W/ D15B7 swap SPC Wittig, Ft. Hood Texas |
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#67 (permalink) |
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D-series soldier
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Just wanted to update this thread with some more info.
I went to 20ft/lbs and then straight to 68 ft/lbs on my Y8.
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330whp/250ftlbs D16Y8 GT3076R 18psi - 2009 434whp/332ftlbs D16Y8 GT3076R 27psi Meth Fed - 2010 Thanks to those who have made my goals achievable: Slow Motion Motorsports, The Horsepower Farm, Mista Bone, Go-Autoworks, D-series.org, Bisimoto. |
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#69 (permalink) | |
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Wheres the engines Ted??
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Quote:
if you wanna use them just set it to tdc take the head off set the bolts replace the head gasket
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#70 (permalink) |
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D-series soldier
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After 8-10 heat cycles, how do you guys re-torque them?
Do you do back off them off a little and re-torque or do you just open the valve cover and re-torque them without backing them out a little?
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330whp/250ftlbs D16Y8 GT3076R 18psi - 2009 434whp/332ftlbs D16Y8 GT3076R 27psi Meth Fed - 2010 Thanks to those who have made my goals achievable: Slow Motion Motorsports, The Horsepower Farm, Mista Bone, Go-Autoworks, D-series.org, Bisimoto. |
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#73 (permalink) |
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D-series PIMP
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just reinstalled mine. used arp moly lube on the block side bolts as well. used the allen key to get them in there snug. then put the head nuts on hand tight, then 15ft/lbs in sequence then right to 60ft/lbs in sequence. It's best to get a big long smooth torque rather then stopping, ratcheting back, and starting to torque again.
-Luke
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y7 block, deburred Vitaras/FJT Ibeams, Stg4 P&P y8 head, ported and matched y8 IM, ITR tb, wrx urboTurb, ramhorn, jrc 5" fmic, 450's, 2.5" dp, 3" exhaust, clutch specialties stg2, act 12lb, rebuilt y8 tranny, S300. 2005 Legacy GT My D16 Build http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...ld-begins.html http://www.lukekailburn.com/ |
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LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/111485-how-really-torque-arp-head-studs-straight-arp.html
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| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| Civic Club Holland • Toon onderwerp - Headlift / ARP aandraaimoment? | This thread | Refback | 05-19-2009 04:43 AM | |
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