Hey guys I figured I would post my new build and some destruction But first some carnage!
It was kinda lame on how my engine went. I was at the parking lot at work doing 15mph and slowing down not even at 2000rpm when I heard a loud *bang* and followed by some rattling noises then the oil light came on. So I quickly shut off my car and was in shock. Looked under the car and freakin oil everywhere and pieces of aluminum. Pop the hood open and there's a freakin crack and a hole on number 4, right where it says D16Y7 on the block. I'm thinking I snapped number 4 rod at 15mph under vac!!! this is crazy!! Boosted for 5yrs and the last year was recently street tuned on Ectune. Conservative tune on a greddy 19t @10psi daily driven.
trans bell housing got damaged. Numbers 1 2 3 rods are fine and seems to be intact, but number 4 totally trashed everything!
Couldn't find number 4 piston, it just disintegrated. All I found was the top piston ring.
To tell you the truth, I don't know. I remember that day being windy as hell and cold as shit. I think it was like -1deg with the windchill or something. My car was running at normal temp and the oil pressure was good and then boom!
New build and setup.
Y7 block
75.5mm vitara
FJT custom length I beams
Y7 head ported and polished by Dustin of Performance Porting
Bullseye Power 50trim
Donor engine is a D16Y7, unknown mileage. Picked it up for a good price. Engine came with the trans and cylinder head. Started to take it apart and inspect the block and all the parts of the engine and it seems to be in good condition.
A little dirty but with some cleaning and degreasing it will be alright. I can still see the factory hone on the cylinders.
So far so good.
Crank journals are in good shape
No toasted bearings!
Cleaned up the block, the crank and old bearings. I wanted to check the main bearing clearance of the "old" bearings to see how healthy the engine ran before and to just know what the overall condition is. Surprisingly, bearing clearances are still within spec.
Also measured the crank journals and checked for run out and its within spec.
So the build goes on and I pretty much measured the cylinders and pistons since I got the tools for measuring. Numbered the pistons for each cylinder and gave all my measurements and the p2w clearance I want to a machine shop to get it bored and honed. Also I told the guy to hone the walls using a 440grit @60degree angle hone.
Tools I used to measure the block and piston
New Bullseye Power T3/TO4E 50 Trim .55/.60 ar from FJT! it's sexy!
I emailed Bullseye about the Garrett cover and they told me their covers were out of stock and in order so they gave me that cover which is fine by me.
So the build goes on and I pretty much measured the cylinders and pistons since I got the tools for measuring. Numbered the pistons for each cylinder and gave all my measurements and the p2w clearance I want to a machine shop to get it bored and honed. Also I told the guy to hone the walls using a 440grit @60degree angle hone.
MATCO digital zero-ing torque wrench FTW!!!!! I want one of those so bad. Then again, I'd take every single tool you have on your bench there too :bigok:.
I got the bore gauge and the 0-6"mic set from http://www.phase2plus.com/details.asp?pr=Dial_Bore_Gages&id=74a couple years ago. Little pricey when I got it but they may have dropped the price on it. It's nice to have your own set of measuring tools, you can be as picky as you want! I know a lot folks would just rather have a machine shop do all the measurements but if you want to learn how to blueprint you have to just DIY. Score a 30pack for measuring a buddies engine
My only problem is I'm WAY to anal for that stuff and I don't do it often enough to lose my "pickiness". Then again, my motto is "no one will do your work like you'd do your work" so it would be a brutal inner struggle...do I let someone else do it because I'd be too anal or do I do it mysel because I'd worry after that someone wouldn't be as anal as I am? It's a horrible cycle LOL.
When we had to tear down engines at Honda Tech school (I picked the K20A3 base RSX engine :bigok: ) and do all the clearance, bore, and endplay measurements it took me forever because I double checked and triple checked everything like it was my own engine I was working on. Meanwhile most of the other guys were just taking sloppy first measurements and calling it a day.
Sometimes I swear it's a curse being as particular as I am :wacko:
Polished crank, no grinding just chamfered the oil holes
Notched, Cleaned and Hi-temp painted block. BTW I notched the block before it got bored and honed.
Just the stock resurfaced flywheel
Y7 cylinder head intake/exhaust ported and polished, combustion chamber also polished
Re-measured the block again after the bore/hone just to make sure the guy did it right which he did. I aimed for .003 p2w clearance. Then filed my rings accordingly which was a pain in the ass but got it right the first time. I will be using a Bisimoto turbo cam on the head.
New honda rod and main bearings are going in the engine. I just placed the old ones in there to protect the bearing surfaces, basement gets pretty dusty. If I put everything back together on the engine stand without the trans, how long can I have it on the stand? it's not going to damage anything from being on the stand right?
I hope so too! Yeah the machine shop guy wanted to also charge for measuring so I measured my own parts to save $$$. Also used the same tools to help a friend build his sbc monte.
Burlington county, engine specialties. The guy does good work, it's just a small shop. What machine shop do you go to? There's not much around my area, maybe like 3 or 4 shops.
Burlington county, engine specialties. The guy does good work, it's just a small shop. What machine shop do you go to? There's not much around my area, maybe like 3 or 4 shops.
the last guy i used was down in cape may; i am unsure if he's still around. the cool thing about him was he was familiar with small engines. he was out of his mind though, that's for sure!
the funny thing about machinists is their job is to be exactly exact (lol), and pay incredible attention to detail, but i've seen some shit in my time so if you find someone good, stick with him.
Yeah I'm going to stick with that guy, he listens pretty good. Granted it took 2 1/2 weeks for the job but worth the wait to get the job done right the first time.
I got the bore gauge and the 0-6"mic set from http://www.phase2plus.com/details.asp?pr=Dial_Bore_Gages&id=74a couple years ago. Little pricey when I got it but they may have dropped the price on it. It's nice to have your own set of measuring tools, you can be as picky as you want! I know a lot folks would just rather have a machine shop do all the measurements but if you want to learn how to blueprint you have to just DIY. Score a 30pack for measuring a buddies engine
Yes indeed a very nice turbo. It should get me close to my goal of 300 tuned. Can't wait till spring time comes! The busted engine is still in the car, I think the only thing I can salvage is the head and flywheel. When I looked closely on number 4 where the rod cap separated, number 4 rod journal is badly damaged. I would say the crank is done. The y7 trans on the other hand I'm not worried about. I have a spare y8 trans for it that will also be overhauled.
Build looks great, glad to see someone using a Y7 for a change, not too many people even think about these engines. I think they are great little motors for a base engine in an "economy" car.
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