Honda D Series Forum banner

Carnage pics and new build

24K views 135 replies 68 participants last post by  jammie98D15Z6 
#1 · (Edited)
Carnage pics, new build, VIDEO startup last page

Hey guys I figured I would post my new build and some destruction :) But first some carnage!
It was kinda lame on how my engine went. I was at the parking lot at work doing 15mph and slowing down not even at 2000rpm when I heard a loud *bang* and followed by some rattling noises then the oil light came on. So I quickly shut off my car and was in shock. Looked under the car and freakin oil everywhere and pieces of aluminum. Pop the hood open and there's a freakin crack and a hole on number 4, right where it says D16Y7 on the block. I'm thinking I snapped number 4 rod at 15mph under vac!!! this is crazy!! Boosted for 5yrs and the last year was recently street tuned on Ectune. Conservative tune on a greddy 19t @10psi daily driven.

trans bell housing got damaged. Numbers 1 2 3 rods are fine and seems to be intact, but number 4 totally trashed everything!








Couldn't find number 4 piston, it just disintegrated. All I found was the top piston ring.
 
See less See more
7
#4 ·
New build and setup.
Y7 block
75.5mm vitara
FJT custom length I beams
Y7 head ported and polished by Dustin of Performance Porting
Bullseye Power 50trim

Donor engine is a D16Y7, unknown mileage. Picked it up for a good price. Engine came with the trans and cylinder head. Started to take it apart and inspect the block and all the parts of the engine and it seems to be in good condition.


A little dirty but with some cleaning and degreasing it will be alright. I can still see the factory hone on the cylinders.


So far so good.



Crank journals are in good shape


No toasted bearings! :D


Cleaned up the block, the crank and old bearings. I wanted to check the main bearing clearance of the "old" bearings to see how healthy the engine ran before and to just know what the overall condition is. Surprisingly, bearing clearances are still within spec.

Also measured the crank journals and checked for run out and its within spec.
 
#5 ·
run it like it is no need for new bearings , they still look perfect :)
 
#11 ·
Twice in one week I agree with you, not good.
 
#7 ·
So the build goes on and I pretty much measured the cylinders and pistons since I got the tools for measuring. Numbered the pistons for each cylinder and gave all my measurements and the p2w clearance I want to a machine shop to get it bored and honed. Also I told the guy to hone the walls using a 440grit @60degree angle hone.

Tools I used to measure the block and piston


New Bullseye Power T3/TO4E 50 Trim .55/.60 ar from FJT! it's sexy!



I emailed Bullseye about the Garrett cover and they told me their covers were out of stock and in order so they gave me that cover which is fine by me.
 
#36 ·
So the build goes on and I pretty much measured the cylinders and pistons since I got the tools for measuring. Numbered the pistons for each cylinder and gave all my measurements and the p2w clearance I want to a machine shop to get it bored and honed. Also I told the guy to hone the walls using a 440grit @60degree angle hone.

Tools I used to measure the block and piston
MATCO digital zero-ing torque wrench FTW!!!!! I want one of those so bad. Then again, I'd take every single tool you have on your bench there too :bigok:.

Woah, someone who can use proper tools for measuring stuff. I like seeing that. =)...
:werd:. A man after my own OCD heart :).

I got the bore gauge and the 0-6"mic set from http://www.phase2plus.com/details.asp?pr=Dial_Bore_Gages&id=74a couple years ago. Little pricey when I got it but they may have dropped the price on it. It's nice to have your own set of measuring tools, you can be as picky as you want!:) I know a lot folks would just rather have a machine shop do all the measurements but if you want to learn how to blueprint you have to just DIY. Score a 30pack for measuring a buddies engine :)
My only problem is I'm WAY to anal for that stuff and I don't do it often enough to lose my "pickiness". Then again, my motto is "no one will do your work like you'd do your work" so it would be a brutal inner struggle...do I let someone else do it because I'd be too anal or do I do it mysel because I'd worry after that someone wouldn't be as anal as I am? It's a horrible cycle LOL.

When we had to tear down engines at Honda Tech school (I picked the K20A3 base RSX engine :bigok: ) and do all the clearance, bore, and endplay measurements it took me forever because I double checked and triple checked everything like it was my own engine I was working on. Meanwhile most of the other guys were just taking sloppy first measurements and calling it a day.

Sometimes I swear it's a curse being as particular as I am :wacko:
 
#8 · (Edited)
Polished crank, no grinding just chamfered the oil holes


Notched, Cleaned and Hi-temp painted block. BTW I notched the block before it got bored and honed.





Just the stock resurfaced flywheel


Y7 cylinder head intake/exhaust ported and polished, combustion chamber also polished



Re-measured the block again after the bore/hone just to make sure the guy did it right which he did. I aimed for .003 p2w clearance. Then filed my rings accordingly which was a pain in the ass but got it right the first time. I will be using a Bisimoto turbo cam on the head.
 
#9 ·
Holly hell man! I couldn't do that much damage to a motor on a three day weekend/bender with a jackhammer and a quest from the lord.
 
#10 ·
damn now thats fuckin shit up right there lol. New build looks good so far
 
#14 ·
New honda rod and main bearings are going in the engine. I just placed the old ones in there to protect the bearing surfaces, basement gets pretty dusty. If I put everything back together on the engine stand without the trans, how long can I have it on the stand? it's not going to damage anything from being on the stand right?
 
#21 ·
Burlington county, engine specialties. The guy does good work, it's just a small shop. What machine shop do you go to? There's not much around my area, maybe like 3 or 4 shops.
the last guy i used was down in cape may; i am unsure if he's still around. the cool thing about him was he was familiar with small engines. he was out of his mind though, that's for sure!

the funny thing about machinists is their job is to be exactly exact (lol), and pay incredible attention to detail, but i've seen some shit in my time so if you find someone good, stick with him.
 
#24 ·
sorry for the carnage, but the new build looks pretty clean.

How much money do you put on your measuring tools and where do you get it ?????

Maybe I´ll get this tools for my rebuild, need to be shure by myself, that everything is gonna be under specs.
 
#25 ·
I got the bore gauge and the 0-6"mic set from http://www.phase2plus.com/details.asp?pr=Dial_Bore_Gages&id=74a couple years ago. Little pricey when I got it but they may have dropped the price on it. It's nice to have your own set of measuring tools, you can be as picky as you want!:) I know a lot folks would just rather have a machine shop do all the measurements but if you want to learn how to blueprint you have to just DIY. Score a 30pack for measuring a buddies engine :)
 
#29 ·
Yes indeed a very nice turbo. It should get me close to my goal of 300 tuned. Can't wait till spring time comes! The busted engine is still in the car, I think the only thing I can salvage is the head and flywheel. When I looked closely on number 4 where the rod cap separated, number 4 rod journal is badly damaged. I would say the crank is done. The y7 trans on the other hand I'm not worried about. I have a spare y8 trans for it that will also be overhauled.
 
#30 ·
Build looks great, glad to see someone using a Y7 for a change, not too many people even think about these engines. I think they are great little motors for a base engine in an "economy" car.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top