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Old 03-02-2009, 12:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY - Y8 Oil Pump Shim, Prelim Port DIY Pics

I posted this DIY over on Turbod16.com a while back and had several requests to copy it over here for our fellow D16 lovers, so since work is slow today, here it is:

First and foremost, the disclaimer. These mods are to be done AT YOUR OWN RISK! If you do this correctly or incorrectly and you somehow screw up your motor, don't come knocking on my door. Also I would highly recommend not doing ANY mods to your oil pump unless you have an oil pressure gauge to check your work.

A little background:
I recently lost #4 rod-bearing on my turbo 97 EX. Being the kind of person who asks why a lot, I decided to do some research. Was there any correlation between why this rod bearing went out first and the fact that it's the farthest one from the oil pump? Why are all of these guys running around with Z6 SOHCs at high boost and not having any problems with rod bearings? Why are there countless posts from guys like me with Y7s and Y8s who have lost rod bearings? Why does this crap always happen to the financially challenged?

Two Main Differences; Z6 vs. Y8 Oil Delivery:
From doing some comparison research on the Z6 and Y8 motors, I found that there are 2 major oil delivery differences between the D16Z6 and the D16Y8s. One main difference is the crank. The 92-95 cranks were made with reliability and forethought in mind. Not only do they have dual oil galleys for each rod journal, but they're also chamfered. The 96-00 cranks have only one un-chamfered oil galley per journal. Translated, this basically means not as much oil gets to the Y8 rod bearing and it doesn't get spread to the outside edges of the bearings as quickly. The other huge difference between the two generations of SOHC is the oil displacement of the pumps, or volume. According to the 92-95 and 96-00 manuals, the earlier generation oil pump displaces 11.89 gallons/minute at only 6000 rpm. The 96-00 oil pump displaces only 8.8 gallons/min at 6800rpm. In basic terms, the Y8 oil pump has 35% less flow and doesn't reach max flow until nearly 1000 rpm later than the Z6. To me, thats a pretty big difference, and for a turbo motor thats a huge difference.

Shimming the pump:
Simplest and cheapest thing we can do is shim the relief valve on the oil pump. This isnt necessarily the perfect fix for a problem like getting oil to that last rod bearing, but it will help by pushing the oil there faster. On the other hand, if you use too big of a shim youll also push oil right past your newly blown seals. Stock pressure on your Y8 motor at operating temperature is 10psi minimum at idle and 50psi minimum at 3000 rpm. If you have these numbers already, using a shim thickness of approximately .025-.035. You should get a slight bump in pressure to somewhere in the vicinity of 70-90psi at 3000rpm. Updated shim thickness as of 10/9/07, refer here for why: http://www.turbod16.com/viewtopic.ph...&sd=a&start=40

From what I can tell, installing the shim in your relief valve does not necessitate removing your oil pump, but I had a hard time getting my Sealing bolt out even though the pump was sitting on my bench.

D16Y8 Oil Pump:



1. Drain your oil, or if you have your pump out, get a clean surface ready to work on.
2. Unscrew your sealing bolt, its a hex bit. One thing to remember, the Sealing Bolt is spring loaded, so be ready to keep it from shooting off under the workbench. Once you get your Sealing Bolt out you should cover the hole with tape because any dirt or debris inside will cause your Relief Valve to stick.



3. Get your shim ready. I had to find a .050" thick washer (pictured below) and modify it to a final thickness of 0.025-0.035", inner diameter of 0.30" and an outer diameter of 0.45". Also make sure the hole is centered to ensure a correct fit.
*NOTE: The thickness below is 0.050", the ACTUAL thickness should be 0.025-0.035"



4. Next, clean your Relief Valve extremely well, again, any dirt or debris can make the Relief Valve bind.
5. Put your shim between the spring and Sealing Bolt and put the Relief Valve on the other end of the spring.



6. Coat the Spring and Relief Valve with a light coat of motor oil.
7. Put the assembly back into your Oil Pump.




8. Watch your oil pressure! Remember, stock is 10psi warm at idle, 50psi warm at 3000rpm. We are looking for 70-90psi or so at 3k.

Cont...

Last edited by grizzled; 03-02-2009 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 03-02-2009, 12:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Next up, Porting the Oil Pump:
Coming soon...

(preliminary before and after porting pics)

Before:



After:



Before:



After:




Before:



After:




I am not the authority on anything, so I'd love to hear any ideas, flames, comments, or questions.

Thanks for the input guys, hope this write-up helps!

*note: edited on 06/08/07 to correct the shim thickness, was 0.050", should be 0.025-0.035" refer to this thread: http://www.turbod16.com/viewtopic.ph...&sd=a&start=40
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Old 03-02-2009, 12:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i think this has been covered before, but its always good to see different ways its done.
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Old 03-02-2009, 12:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Nice Write up. Lot's of Info.
Thanks.


Do you have Pics of what Tools/Bits your used to Port?
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Old 03-02-2009, 01:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I could paste the URL to another site where I made a quite comprehensive thread about this, but I've heard its not allowed here so I'll just show you a couple of pics of my Y8 oilpump going to my D15B2;




Do NOT shim the relief valve spring! It does NOT improve the flow of the oilpump anyhow! If it bumps the pressure, all it does is add strain to engine parts and increase the power loss.
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Old 03-02-2009, 01:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Very nice write up nice detailed pics.
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Old 03-02-2009, 01:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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To mirror what Rushi said, I don't understand why you want more pressure. Too much oil pressure just increases pumping losses and increase the risk of blowing oil out your seals. Once you port the pump to increase the VOLUME of flow and the efficiency of pumping the oil, you won't need the additional pressure.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rushi View Post
I could paste the URL to another site where I made a quite comprehensive thread about this, but I've heard its not allowed here so I'll just show you a couple of pics of my Y8 oilpump going to my D15B2;




Do NOT shim the relief valve spring! It does NOT improve the flow of the oilpump anyhow! If it bumps the pressure, all it does is add strain to engine parts and increase the power loss.

are u talking about the spring itself or the spacer?
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Old 04-10-2009, 03:13 AM   #9 (permalink)
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just don't shim.

Rushi, glad you understand this...........
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm thinking about doing this down the road...
So just port it out don't shim, and the oil flow will be greater than stock? by how much do you expect?
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Old 04-16-2009, 04:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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i so fawking hate myself for not having a compresser!!
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
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cool now i can do this myself.

im thinkin that porting is the way to go. messing with a relief valve doesnt sound like somethin i wanna do.

good DIY
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Old 05-15-2009, 06:50 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Rushi,

How did you get your porting to look like this? Did you add material by welding?

It looks extraordinary...
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Old 05-15-2009, 11:17 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Old 05-15-2009, 12:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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actually its devcon alum. putty. shit is expensive
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Old 05-15-2009, 05:26 PM   #16 (permalink)
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It's Devcon. It is expensive for a reason. If you think Devcon is expensive, I think you need to delve in a little deeper into the world of exotic epoxies. :P
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:05 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I used jb weld works great and its cheap
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Old 05-27-2009, 10:47 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I was always under the assumption that the shim was to compensate for the extra volume of the ports. My shim is very thin .024". I get 25 psi at idle and around 80 psi @ 3000 rpm. IMHO I think if I do remove the shim, the pressure will drop even more than stock.

Besides that, your work is very clean rushi. Kinda inspires me to do better on my own work.
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:05 PM   #19 (permalink)
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i used a .035 shim. Dont know how much pressure but im willing to bet its a ton..
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:07 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Previously my shim was at .035" but at idle my shit was at 50 psi lol
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