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Old 07-21-2006, 12:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Valve Guides Removal & Installation

If replacement valve guides are not available or you determine the replacement procedure is too involved, the guides can be reconditioned using a procedure known as knurling (machining the inner surface).

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1 and 2

1. Refer to the valve removal/installation' procedures in this section and remove the valves.

2. Place the cylinder head in an oven and heat it to 300°F using an accurately positioned cooking thermometer to determine temperature; this procedure will loosen the valve guides enough to drive them out.

3. Place the new valve guides in the freezer section of a refrigerator for about an hour; this will caus them to contract making them easier to install.

4. Using a hammer and the Valve Guide Driver tool No. 07942-SA50000, 07942-8230000 or equivalent (for exhaust side) or 07942-6570100, 07942-6110000 or equivalent (for intake side), drive the valve guide(s) toward thecamshaft side of the cylinder head.

4. Using a hammer and the Valve Guide Driver tool No. 07942-SA50000, 07942-8230000 or equivalent (for exhaust side) or 07942-6570100, 07942-6110000 or equivalent (for intake side), remove the new guide from the freezer and drive it into the cylinder head from the camshaft side until the guide projects above the cylinder head surface. Valve guide installed height for 1984-87 engines is 0.8 in (20.0mm) (intake), and 0.76 in (19.0mm) (exhaust); for 1988-91 engines it is 0.648 in. (16.2mm); for 1992-95 D16Z6, D15Z1 engines it is 0.714-0.734 in (17.85-18.35mm) (intake), and 0.746-0.766 in. (18.65-19.15mm) (exhaust); for 1992-95 D15B7, D15B8 engines it is 0.638-0.658 in. (15.95-16.45) (intake and exhaust).

If installing a whole set of guides (8 or 16 depending on engine), it may be necessary to re-heat the cylinder head more than once.

6. Using the Valve Guide Reamer tool No. 07984-SA50000, 07984-689010A or equivalent (exhaust) or 07984-6110000, 07984-657010A or equivalent, coat the reamer with cutting oil and ream the valve guides to the proper valve stem fit. Use the reamer with an in-out motion while rotating it. For the finished dimension of the valve guide, check the Valve Specifications chart elsewhere in this section.


Fig. 1: Valve guide driver tool, its use, and dimensions for Honda valve guides. Also shown is a hot plate being used to heat the cylinder head to enable removal/replacement of guides


Fig. 2: Ream new valve guides using special cutting oil and by turning clockwise. Continue to rotate the reamer while removing it for a smooth cut

When replacing the valve springs, place the closely wound end toward the cylinder head.

7. To assemble the cylinder head, first lubricate the valves with clean engine oil and slide the valves up and down in the valve guides to make sure they move smoothly.

8. Then install the valve guide seals and lubricate the parts with clean engine oil. Use a valve spring compressor to compress the valve springs and carefully install the valve keepers, retainers and springs. (The exhaust valve seal uses a black spring, while the intake valve seal uses a white spring.)


CAUTION

When removing the valve spring compressor tool, do it slowly and make sure the valve keepers are fully seated; otherwise, the springs may fly off suddenly.


9. After removing the valve spring compressor, tap the valve stems 2-3 times to make sure the valve keepers and valves are fully seated. Only tap each valve stem along its axis so you do not bend it.

10. Refer to "Rocker Arms/Shafts, Installation" and "Camshaft, Installation" in this section for procedures to assemble the rest of the cylinder head.

11. To complete the installation, use new gaskets and install the cylinder head on the vehicle.

12. Refill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for normal operation and leaks

KNURLING

Knurling is a process in which the metal on the valve guide bore is displaced and raised, thereby reducing the clearance. It also provides excellent oil control. The option of knurling rather than reaming valve guides should be discussed with a reputable machinist or engine specialist.
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Last edited by krychek57; 02-16-2009 at 08:54 AM.
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Old 07-21-2006, 12:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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awesome right up!
i coulda used this about 4 months ago tho =( lol
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Old 07-23-2006, 01:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
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sweet... this is handy since rebuilding a head for my y4...

just a question though... the head i've got has only done 30,000kms (18650miles)... putting after market springs etc, would replacing the valve guides be necessary? or is it for heads that have more mileage or cars with more hp?

cheers
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Old 07-25-2006, 05:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Nice write up, remoer. Rep for you.

But I have these words of caution for the inexperienced DIYers...

If you heat up the head unevenly, you could warp it.

If you overheat or repeatedly heat it, your valve seats may fall out!!!

Even after heating up the head you may not be able to drive out the guide and you may have to drill it out.

In order to determine if your guides need replacing or knurling, you need to measure the guide-to-stem clearance. You can do this with a dial indicator while rocking the stem. Or you can subtract the OD of the valve stem from the ID of the valve guide. You use a mic to measure the stem and inside mic or ball guide to measure the guide, taking measurements at 3 different places. Remember you have to do this 16 times accurately. The standard service limit is Intake .08mm, Exhaust .11 for a Y7/Y8. You also need to be able to do this after you've knurled or reamed the guide to be sure you haven't focked it up.

For the n00bs, I strongly recommend having a machine shop do this process. Good machine shops do not heat up the head (at least mine didn't). They force a liquid gas coolant down the guide and freeze them right in the head. They also measure the guide-to-stem service limits using a set of guide gauges. These services are not expensive especially if you need to purchase any of the tools required to do the job yourself. Chances are you'll be taking your head to the shop anyway to have your seats cut and surfaces flattened.

Last edited by sql_civic; 07-30-2006 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 07-30-2006, 09:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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/\/\/\/\ really fuck good to know. thing that are not cover in books.
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1 monkey power = 0.332 hp.

The suspension should always be faster than the engine - BMW

The term stage was created to make mentally slow ppl feel physically fast.

my DOHC ZC - 133.73whp and 108.48wtq (tuned on a Dynojet)
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Old 07-31-2006, 12:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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yeah really good to know :thumbup: thanks man!
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Old 08-05-2006, 07:42 AM   #7 (permalink)
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with all the parts yoku have to buy is it worth it to switch them out or just get a new motor?
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Old 08-05-2006, 07:51 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azoodica
with all the parts yoku have to buy is it worth it to switch them out or just get a new motor?
i guess you miss the whole thing about the DIY. it's not about buying or forking out it's more about doing something you normally wouldn't do unless you do it for a living. even yet for me it's the knowledge of learning and not stoping in learning from birth to death.
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1 monkey power = 0.332 hp.

The suspension should always be faster than the engine - BMW

The term stage was created to make mentally slow ppl feel physically fast.

my DOHC ZC - 133.73whp and 108.48wtq (tuned on a Dynojet)
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Old 08-06-2006, 07:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remoer
i guess you miss the whole thing about the DIY. it's not about buying or forking out it's more about doing something you normally wouldn't do unless you do it for a living. even yet for me it's the knowledge of learning and not stoping in learning from birth to death.
Well said brother...I find myself buying tools to work on my car that cost more than it would to go have somebody do the work for me....I love doing my own work and continuing to learn more and more about hondas/cars/motors....some people just dont get it...they dont understand how much they are missing out on...
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Old 08-28-2006, 04:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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why pay some one to do it when you get the benefit of doing it yourself and later down the road being able to help out on of your buddies or making some extra loot....great write up to everyone....reps to all who put out info
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