|11-26-2003, 03:05 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Step 1: Jack up the car and secure with jack stands.
Step 2: Remove tires and take a good look at the stock set up.
Step 3: Check your parts and be sure that they are for your car.
Step 4: Loosen and remove the Phillips head screw holding the stock rotor onto the hub.
Step 5: You may need to use an impact driver. These can be purchased from any store that sells automotive tools, ie. Kragen, Pep Boys, Home Depot, etc.
Step 6: Sometimes the screw will be corroded or just too tight and the head may strip out. In this case, you will need to use a die grinder and cut a groove into the screw and the rotor itself. The groove needs to be about 1/8" deep or enough for you to use one of the flathead bits. Don't go too deep or you will not have enough of the head left to break loose. Remember, you are replacing the rotor so don't worry about cutting it. ** SEE STEP 20 **
Step 7: Loosen and remove the 12mm bolt holding on the brake line to the steering knuckle.
Step 8: Move the brake line out of the way.
Step 9: Loosen and remove the 12mm bolt holding the brake caliper to the brake assembly.
Step 10: This will allow you to swing the caliper up off of the pads.
Step 11: This top pivot point is just a greased alignment shaft, carefully peel back the rubber dust boot and completely remove the caliper from the bracket.
Step 12: Set the caliper aside or suspend it using some twine. What ever you do, don't let it hang, you can damage the brake line.
Step 13: This leaves the caliper bracket and the brake pads. Take a good look at it so that you will know which way they go back in. Remove the brake pads.
Step 14: Loosen and remove the two 17mm bolts holding on the caliper bracket.
Step 15: Remove the bracket and set aside.
Step 16: Since you already removed the screw holding the rotor you should be able to just slide the stock rotor off of the hub. Sometimes they get rusted and stick to the hub. Use a hammer and hit the rotor from the rear to dislodge it from the hub. Be sure not to hit the axle or anything else.
Step 17: ** (High importance!) ** With a wire wheel (or brush) clean the hub area where the rotor comes into contact with it. If the rust and corrosion is too bad, it will cause the rotor to wobble and you will get a shaking feeling when you drive.
Step 18: After you have wire wheeled the hub, clean it up with some brake cleaner to finish the job. This is what it should look like.
Step 19: You will need to remove the stock dust shield from the hub assembly
Step 20: Loosen and remove the three Phillips head screws holding on the shield.
Step 21: After you have removed the screws, you will need to cut the shield so that it may come off the hub.
Step 22: Gently pry off the shield and this is what it should look like.
Step 23: Install your Baer brake systems intermediate bracket using two of the smaller bolts included with the kit.
Step 24: Torque these down to 85lbs-ft. The heads on these are 19mm.
Step 25: Install the hub centering rings included with the kit.
Step 26: Install the new oversized rotor.
Step 27: Hold it in place using two lug nuts.
Step 28: Remove the plastic tab holding the caliper together and install the new caliper assembly onto the new rotor.
Step 29: Line up with the intermediate bracket and secure using two of the longer bolts included in with the kit. The heads on these are 19mm as well.
Step 30: Torque these down to 85lbs-ft as well.
Step 31: Install the banjo fittings into the new supplied brake line. Be sure that there is a washer (also included) on both sides of the line.
Step 32: Thread the fitting into the back of the new caliper. Torque down to about 25lbs-ft. I believe this is a 15mm head.
Step 33: Be sure that the brake line is pointed 'UP' and is not 'kinked' in anyway.
Step 34: Loosen and remove the two 10mm bolts holding in the brake line bracket.
Step 35: Place the two holed plastic tab (on the new line) over the bracket and reinstall the two 10mm bolts.
Step 36: Loop the brake line around the steering knuckle and place the remaining plastic tab into the stock tab (same location removed in step 7).
Step 37: It should look like this.
Step 38: On the hard line of the stock brake line, brake loose the 10mm fitting but do not completely dislodge.
Step 39: Remove the spring clip the holds the stock brake line.
Step 40: Completely loosen the hard line fitting.
Step 41: Quickly remove the stock brake line. The brake fluid will begin to drip steadily.
Step 42: Quickly place the new braided line into place.
Step 43: Rethread the fitting and tighten completely.
Step 44: Replace your spring clip.
Step 45: Arrange the brake lines so that they will not get pulled when the wheels are turned all the way right or left.
Step 46: Clean off the brake line fitting and bleed your brakes.
Step 47: Slowly pump your brakes about 20 times to check for a firm pedal feeling. If it is not firm, re-bleed the brakes. Check for leaks.
Step 48: You are done. Re-install your wheels and carefully take the car for a test drive.
*Installers note: Avoid heavy braking for the first 200 miles so that the pads and the rotors can break in correctly. During the first 100 miles or so, you will here some WEIRD sounds coming from your brakes. This will include noises such as slight squeaking, shuttering and rubbing. It should go away after 100 miles. If for some reason it doesn't, pull the wheels and check all the nuts and bolts for tightness.
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