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62K views 64 replies 21 participants last post by  mattliston  
#1 · (Edited)
#4 ·
Ill be dealing with my rack soon..

I dont have metal or metal tools..
I was going to cut off the piston, lube up everything and new seals

but thanks fir the write up. definately another point of view when dealing with racks.
 
#6 ·
Any reason you choose this, instead of just doing the Line loop? <== clearly to remove slop... lol

Also good write up, repp'd.
 
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#8 ·
awesome write-up, man.
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
I dont have my manual in front of me, but do you guys think this could be transferred in theory to other vehicles? My 92 camry does exibit slop in the wheel, as everything under the power steering catergory leaks like most camry's and es300's from the early 90s

Cant do it to the GE8 as its electric and rack mounted
 
#16 ·
That is an Awesome write up guy. I was stuck with the idea that the only way to fix that was to actually swap the rack with a manual one. Thanks.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Hmmm, so you're saying this causes the slop, and cutting the piston would just relieve the pressure?

It would make sense. I tightened the rack guide a lot lol.

BTW, how did you determine what location is best to lock the pin in?
 
#20 ·
instead of fabbing a blockoff plate, couldn't you drill two holes from the case edges and use two parallel bolts to create a channel trapping the pin? I feel like that'd be easier than fabbing a plate
 
#23 ·
I suppose there may have been another way to prevent additional movement, but I wanted to delete the valve body completely. There's really no use for it once the pump has been removed and since it's just dead weight and the block plate was easy to fab I figured this would be the best bet.

Realistically the whole area doesn't need to be blocked off at all (I just didn't want dirt getting in there). All you would have to do is secure the pin from moving side to side. You could probably weld the pinion carrier to the rack housing or just secure it with a strap or other means as well.

I don't think the position it's secured in matters anymore since the assist is "turned off" permanently.

I know. You posed that link already on the first page. As I mentioned then, this link doesn't remotely address what I wanted to accomplish with this rack. Thanks for trying to be helpful though.

Be sure to check the tie rods boots and replace them if they have any cracks/rips...
Yikes!

Yeah my boots are fine, but this is good advice for anyone else that might be re-building their rack.
 
#24 ·
This didn't take long to happen either. Drove threw standing water a month or two ago, all the grease turn to some mud looking sludge and left the rack dry. One hard turn and it stripped.
 
#25 ·
Did a little DIY of my own lol. Didn't feel like spending any more money on parts so I used an old bellows boot as a spacer on my new manual rack.

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