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#1 (permalink) |
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D-series lover
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this probably has been covered a couple of times and i apologize about the lack of pictures but read close and its pretty easy...
1. get your fabric...the thicker the better OR find a fabric with a "backing" on it, this makes it easier to glue without the glue coming thru the material (looks like shit) 2. get yourself a can of spray adhesive i used 3M's 77 spray adhesive 3. take your door panels off 4. locate what is holding your door inserts on (iin my case the 96-00 hatches have about 20 some million freaking plastic rivets which were melted on) 5. remove these above (whatever they may be) i had to use a simple pocket knife, a dremel tool probably would work better 6. remove door insert material (should peel right off) 7. sand the bare insert with fine grit sand paper, i used 220 8. clean surface and let dry 9. spray your cleaned and dry door insert with spray adhesive until fully covered (careful not to over saturate insert) let glue get tacky 10. cut fabric about an inch and half bigger than door insert 11. apply material and stretch to remove air and folds 12. trim material and tuck inside door insert 13. put door insert back on door panel ( i had to use screws and washers to get it to hold) 14. stand back and admire your work!!! 15. repeat steps for other door! i hope this helped those of you who asked for a DIY on how i did my inserts here is the link to my showcase forum of my work Custom door inserts! take a look sorry about the lack of picture cuz i wasnt planning on doing an DIY but people asked and i delivered! ENJOY post any pictures or extra steps of your work! |
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#2 (permalink) | ||
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D-series lover
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Repped!
![]() Awesome DIY. Edit: Maybe I can use this for a headliner too
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XBOXLIVE slammed91sedan
Last edited by bodyguyneedsmotorhelp; 01-12-2011 at 10:28 AM. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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D-Series cadet
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Quote:
I've been wondering what won't soak through but still tack fabric effectively. Nice DIY write-up, btw. Info should come in handy for me soon.
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It's ALIVE!! JDMd16a/y7 build progress pics... http://www.d-series.org/forums/showc...ress-pics.html
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#10 (permalink) |
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All powerful D-series member
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ya the glue is the biggest part and the tack up time of it.....i have never had a problem with super 77....or 90
i prefer the 90 but you have to make sure it sprays out in that stringy like consistancy....and stay away from the ones that say "headliner glue" they are basically like water... also make sure when appling the fabric start from the middle and push out wards...helps to have an extra set of hands....and make sure to use a roller or side of your hand to push down all aeras of the fabric to ensure a proper bond.
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"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote!" ~Benjamin Franklin~ For all Your Go-fast parts..Go-Autoworks! |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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D-series lover
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Quote:
and as far as the 3m 77 spray glue it holds pretty damn good my buddy put his arm rest on with it a while back and still doesnt have any bubbles or seperation even after having his arm pressed on it all day |
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#14 (permalink) |
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D-series soldier
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Join Date: Feb 2006
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as far as adhesives i would stay away from 33 or 77, i used them almost 2 years ago to completely rewrap my interior
![]() ![]() I live in the NW, so we have fairly mild winters and summers, however even after prepping to the specs listed the adhesive has already started to let go, by the summer I am going to have to completely rewrap my interior again. Ill be using 90 this time. Also headliner adhesive doesnt work for shit, dont bother trying it. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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D-series soldier
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Portland, OR / Delta Junction, AK
Posts: 694
Rep Power: 9
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actually had to do very little heating, and almost no stretching, its marine vinyl, nylon mesh backing, so it doesnt stretch for shit anyways haha.
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