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Old 06-29-2009, 02:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY Total Engine Flush

saw this on another forum and im planning on doing it soon wondering if anyone has ever heard of doing this. seems like a better alternative to using seafoam?


First Integration • View topic - DIY: Engine Enema


Purpose:
To clean out your engine of dried oil deposits, sludge, and other bullshit as much as possible without a tear-down/rebuild. Imagine the crap that has been collecting in there over the past two decades.

(see bottom for simplified version)

Down Time:
2 days min, 3-4 days recommended.

Materials:
4.23 qts dino oil (non-synthetic)
1 cheap oil filter
4.23 qts quality synthetic oil
1 quality oil filter
5 gal deisel fuel

Cost:
~$55.oo (assuming you have the means to transport 5 gal of deisel fuel already)

Process:
Step 1:
Disconnect your battery. I recommend removing it alltogether and storing somewhere away from the car.

Step 2:
Make sure your engine is at TDC (top dead center). To do this first remove the cam gear cover on the drivers side of the valve cover. Use a ratchet and extension to turn the cankpulley (big one at the bottom) counter clockwise. Turn untill the little arrow on the timing belt cover is lined up with the thickest of the four white marks on your crank pulley and the marks on the camgears will line up with each other, and parallel to the ground.

Step 3:
Drain your oil, remove your oil cap, but do not remove your oil filter. After drained replace drain plug.

Step 4:
Fill your entire crankcase (where you normally put your oil) with deisel fuel, not deisel oil. Fill it to the top, right up to the point you can't put your oil cap back on. It should take less than 5 but more than 4 gal to completely fill the engine. Even if you do not have oil leaks you will more than likely have minute deisel fuel leaks so be prepared with some catch containers. Refill with the remaining ~gallon every couple of hours or so as needed.

Step 5:
Hide your keys... do not, under any circumstances, crank your engine while full of deisel fuel.

Step 6:
After letting sit for at least 24 hours remove the oil drain plug and drain the fuel. You can let it sit longer if you like, but I recommend at least 24 hours. I actually let mine sit for 24 hours, drained it, and refilled it to sit for another 36 hours. It will come shooting out when the plug is removed, probably over a foot, so be prepared with a large catch container. Remove oil filter. Let drain for at least 8-10 hours.

Step 7:
Replace oil drain plug, install cheap oil filter, put normal amount of oil in crankcase... use cheap, standard (non-synthetic) motor oil, and replace oil cap. Start car and let idle (no engine load) for at least 20 minutes or longer if car smokes significantly. Turn off engine and let cool.

Step 8:
Pull out your dipstick and clean it. Perform a normal oil change this time using your normal quality synthetic oil, and filter. Start car and let idle for at least 10 minutes.

Step 9:
Enjoy your better gas mileage, smoother idle, smoother revs, and showroom-quiet engine. Oh and just for fun run one of those extendable pen magnets through the used fuel to see what you pick up.






Siplified Version

Down Time:
2hrs

Materials:
3.23 qts dino oil (non-synthetic)
1 cheap oil filter
4.23 qts quality synthetic oil
1 quality oil filter
1 qt deisel fuel

Cost:
~$45.oo

Process:
Step 1:
Perform a normal oil change, but when putting the oil back in use standard (non-synthetic) cheap dino oil, a cheap filter, and substitute 1 qt of deisel fuel for one of your quarts of oil. Start car and let idle (no engine load) for at least 20 minutes. Turn off engine and let cool.

Step 2:
Perform a normal oil change this time using your normal quality synthetic oil, and filter.





Obviously the longer version is going to give you much better results. The simplified version is basicly just skipping to Step 7 in the long version since there will still be residual desiel fuel in your engine after draining. I used the longer version on my car (twice actually) and the results were dramatic. My car is Eurotrash so it is notorious for a ticking valvetrain and after doing this my electric fan is louder than the engine. Upon going in deisel fuel is clearish with a slight purple tint. My first treatment came out looking like coffee and bringing a few chunks along for the ride. The second treatment came out like very weak tea. The revs are much smoother, seeming almost effortless for the engine, the idle is alot smoother, and vibration was minimized. It may be me but throttle response seems to be improved and the engine almost seems rev-happy.
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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greasemonkey89,

Have you try this yourself. Dose it really work like the write up said. Has anyone else try this????
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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i use diesel fuel to clean my engine. its a great oil penetrator and leaves the engine spotless. also does not harm the paint.
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Old 06-29-2009, 11:06 AM   #4 (permalink)
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old trick, use half ATF half cheap oil. let it idle for 10 mins or so, drain.

refill with oil of choice
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Old 06-29-2009, 11:30 AM   #5 (permalink)
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i've heard of using diesel in the crankcase and let idle for like 5 mins but no proof and i talk to crusty mechanics!
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Old 06-29-2009, 05:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I would add to this diy that anyone who tries it should also pull the plugs before they attempt to start the engine the first time. Try to turn it over and just in case you have a cylinder full of diesel, it won't hydro-lock and bend a rod. If diesel was in the cylinder, it will shoot out the plug hole.

I know its unlikely, but if someone has a leaky valve guide, and let it sit for the time needed in this diy, they could end up with a cylinder full of diesel.
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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also anything with high miles i wouldnt recomend this, sometimes gunk and carbon is the only thing thing keeping the rings, seals ect from leaking
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedjunky01 View Post
also anything with high miles i wouldnt recomend this, sometimes gunk and carbon is the only thing thing keeping the rings, seals ect from leaking
that happened on "90zchatcy"s ef sohc zc. it did so him that he had bad valve gaskets though lol. he said it smoked up his whole apartment complex lol
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Old 06-29-2009, 07:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wizard's blood View Post
that happened on "90zchatcy"s ef sohc zc. it did so him that he had bad valve gaskets though lol. he said it smoked up his whole apartment complex lol

yup on a farily young/ rebuilt engine it does great

but on an older one that has been worked it can do more harm then good
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Old 06-29-2009, 07:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danz View Post
old trick, use half ATF half cheap oil. let it idle for 10 mins or so, drain.

refill with oil of choice
ima have to try that next time i change my oil.
thanks for the tip.
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedjunky01 View Post
yup on a farily young/ rebuilt engine it does great

but on an older one that has been worked it can do more harm then good
That's what I would be concerned about.. I was thinking bout doing it on my DD
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:52 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I did the ATF trick in the cylinders on my 8valve d15b6 let it set overnight, started it the next morning. Dear god did it smoke but it did run a tiny bit better.

Honestly i would just throw some in the intake and run er hard. Diesel in the crankcase is NOT a good idea. allthough atf isnt too bad.
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Old 06-29-2009, 11:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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i have heard the idle trick with about a gal of diesel in the crankcase with a little syn oil..

i dunno if i would fill the whole motor with the shit..

i wanna know if there is something to get rid of carbon build up on the tops of the pistons.. its not bad in my motor.. but i like it to look nice when i take off the head..
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Old 06-30-2009, 03:56 AM   #14 (permalink)
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im reluctant to try it myself hence why i was asking if anyone has done or heard of this lol. i think i will try it on the geo since i have to rebuild it anyway but not for a while. if someone grows the balls to do this please post your review. in the link quite a few people did it to there d16a1's with supposed good reviews but its still not enough for me to chance it. i mean i have tried seafoam with good results but this is something else.
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Old 07-03-2009, 09:52 PM   #15 (permalink)
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how was the sea foam....i wanna try it but i see all theses cars on youtube and they smoke all to hell is that normal? and why does it smoke like that?
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Old 07-04-2009, 01:46 AM   #16 (permalink)
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how was the sea foam....i wanna try it but i see all theses cars on youtube and they smoke all to hell is that normal? and why does it smoke like that?
yes thats normal, because its 80% naptha, very light diesel.
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Old 07-04-2009, 01:59 PM   #17 (permalink)
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i wanna know if there is something to get rid of carbon build up on the tops of the pistons.. its not bad in my motor.. but i like it to look nice when i take off the head..
you can use sea form through a vacuum line going into the intake mani. follow the directions on the back of the sea foam can...all you do is get the car up to operating temp and then have the vacuum line suck in the sea foam into the cylinders were it could stall out the engine, if it does that's good, let it sit for 5-10minutes...then start up the car and let it idle for a bit then run up the revs to 2-4000rpm until most if not all the white smoke is gone from the exhuast...

as for the suggestion to put sea foam in the crankcase, i would not recommend this...sea foam is a decarbonizer, it will destroy your oil vescosity and it is impossible to remove the sea foam 100% from your crankcase with only one oil change. the directions say that you can use it in the crankcase to clean it out but for more than 500 miles, and then you have to do an oil change...but again its impossible to remove all the decarbonizer form the crankcase with just one oil change...

i have used sea foam with great success in the gas tank and in the intake manifold, won't try the crankcase though
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Old 07-04-2009, 04:22 PM   #18 (permalink)
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ive heard many people doing the sea foam.
but the deisel is a little crazy.
i would like to see a member actually do it to there car.
i just cant bring myself to fill the motor up with it. untill i know its okay.
not going to go off of something someone else has read that someone did.
but decent diy
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Old 07-05-2009, 06:35 PM   #19 (permalink)
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done this, didn't notice anything but the psychological aspect was great
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Old 07-09-2009, 03:50 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by custom_junky View Post
you can use sea form through a vacuum line going into the intake mani. follow the directions on the back of the sea foam can...all you do is get the car up to operating temp and then have the vacuum line suck in the sea foam into the cylinders were it could stall out the engine, if it does that's good, let it sit for 5-10minutes...then start up the car and let it idle for a bit then run up the revs to 2-4000rpm until most if not all the white smoke is gone from the exhuast...

as for the suggestion to put sea foam in the crankcase, i would not recommend this...sea foam is a decarbonizer, it will destroy your oil vescosity and it is impossible to remove the sea foam 100% from your crankcase with only one oil change. the directions say that you can use it in the crankcase to clean it out but for more than 500 miles, and then you have to do an oil change...but again its impossible to remove all the decarbonizer form the crankcase with just one oil change...

i have used sea foam with great success in the gas tank and in the intake manifold, won't try the crankcase though

+1 same here used it and smoked out my local autozone
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