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Old 04-12-2009, 12:29 AM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY Negative & positive battery cable replacement with PICS

It just happened I ran into a very unusual problem that I haven't had a clue as why this happened. I backed up my car from my garage to my driveway, placed in park and shut off he car and locked the door. A few hours later I went back to my 1998 Honda Civic LX to start it and no cell lights, no chimes, NOTHING GWAR!!! I am pissed at the world.

I am sure there were a selected few here who might have hit this from time to time so this is the intention as why I am willing to put this DIY to help alleviate those who may run into this problem in the near and distant future.

First, I had my young brother go inside the car to crank over the car while I will be wiggling the negative battery post to strut tower ground cable to start it because it has worked many a time before. I tried it but it did not work this time. Especially, I had this procedure won't work because i have changed this cable the month prior to this.

Next, I checked the 80a battery fuse but it was still bridged. That fuse was definitely good.

Then, I pulled the negative battery post cable out completely and pulled the battery to give it a nice slow charge and check the battery the next morning. Well, next morning came around and still "no dice."

After that, I went to Autozone to buy a multimeter to see if this may help to diagnose it. Set that on 20k ohms and started probing on the 80a fuse. GOOD. tried to check the negative and positive cables and no reading. Looked online and no wonder. 9volts on the meter did not have enough juice to push through those about 4 gauge cables. I then checked my starter solenoid and that one was good.

Lastly, I set my charger to its diagnostics and clamped it to the battery terminal cables. The charger read "foreign object" DAMN. there has to be a break but where?

What was left to do ask the Honda forums communities and I had the best leads in lvracingscene.com Basically all they said was check grounds. Yay so I found a used set of positive battery cables in honda-tech.com for 6 bucks Score! Unfortunately, the positive battery cable was bunked and cables were deemed "unusable" they looked worst than mine.

My 1st DIY journey has just begun so please read on:

Expected time about 4.5 hours tops from gathering the parts, prep time and clean up. Keep in mind taking my sweet time.
Difficulty: Easy.

Take note the measurements may vary from car to car. This is on my B-series and those with D will probably need more than the length that I have listed. Furthermore, This is on a 1998 Honda Civic LX sedan chasis.

materials needed:

6ft.about $20.00 to be on the safe side of 4 gauge stereo wire from Auto Express.
1420 s. rainbow Las Vegas
(702)880-1201

Lynx 4 gauge copper battery cable lugs (one package is quantity of 2)

(4)packages 8 in total small hole battery cable lugs. 06060 LCS8072 Lynx 4 gauge battery cable ends for most of the chasis.
$9.00 total


(1) package of 2 big hole battery cable lugs. 06003 LCS8082 (You will only use 1.) from positive battery cable to starter solenoid.
$2.20


(2) lynx battery cable terminals that fit 4 gauge Lynx battery terminal. brass 06078/ 28-71509/? Lcs81?( I prefer the brass ones and unfortunately, these are SAE size so have an SAE set handy.
$8.00 total


(1) roll of electrical tape to wrap the copper ends and wire after crimping.
$2.00

Few 10mm bolts.

Materials from:

Autozone
3280 N Durango Dr
Las Vegas NV 89129
(702) 656-3804

(1) small piece of coarse emery cloth or good quality sand paper. This will be used to clean up the mounting site for a better conductivity on the chaisis.

Free.

(1) glass plus or Windex window cleaner to clean the mounting site free of paint for better conductivity.

Free.

(1) small oil free rag to wipe the desired mounting point dry and free of debris.

Free.

Grand total spent was $41.20

Tools needed:

(1) good wire and crimp tool. Craftsmen #82563

(1) a measuring tool (in this case a circular saw table ruler) a yard stick would be perfect.
(1) good permanent pen to mark the cable with.
(1) good buddy (my younger brother) for second judgement and to hold the cable while you mark the cable.
(1) Erdi 48 A scissor, i am sure you can work with a normal scissor if need be or even a pair of real wire cutters. (dykes)
Erdi 48A MultiSnip Multi Snip to work the conduit off and cut the wire cleanly.
(1) philips screw driver.
(1) channel lock or slip joint pliers (optional) to hold square head of battery terminal while tightening the 1/2 bolt

(1) 1/2in combination wrench. ? Can someone validate the SAE sizes? I covered the terminals with electrical tape, already.
(1)5/16in combination wrench. ?
Just have a good set of SAE combination wrenches strictly for the terminals.
(1)10mm combination wrench for all the chasis grounds.
(1)12mm combination wrench strictly for the Positive battery terminal to starter solenoid cable. To tighten and loosen.
(1) trusty philips screw driver to tighten or loosen the positive battery terminal to fuse box cable.

Last but not least is patience and use the "measure once, Measure twice and cut" method.

STEPS:

1. Always disconnect the negative battery cable to be on the safe side.

This negative post battery cable to (Right side) passenger strut tower is about 6.5 inch long.

Once you cut the desired length take out 1 inch of insulation so this can be attached to one of your purchased brass battery cable. Now take out about 1/2in. of insulation on the the opposite side of the wire you have just did. This will be for one small 4 gauge copper cable end.

*I found the best way to strip the insulation was using my ERDI 48A tool and rock it back and forth while squeezing slowly until I get a "ring" around the wire and then make a slit from the ring to the end of the wire.*

Got the wire done? Good. Now crimp the 4 gauge (small hole) lug end.

*I found it easier to get a good crimp by placing my crimper on the floor and push against the other side of handle.*

Attach the brass battery terminal on the 1in. cleaned copper. and fasten it down using your SAE combination wrench while the screws facing downward. Use your electrical tape wrap at least 1.5in of wire and the battery terminal screws completely. Also wrap the wire and cable lug. Your finished product should look like this:



Leave this completed negative battery terminal to strut bar cable unattached for the whole DIY until completion.

As you can see the desired mounting point has already been cleaned up with a piece of sand paper, Windex and a rag to help aid for good conductivity.

*Leave the battery there for a good mock up.

2. Move and take intake so you can get to the starter solenoid. This will make your life much easier.

3. Time to take out the positive battery cable completely:

Use your 10mm combination wrench (open side) and loosen the nut on the positive battery terminal and pull the terminal off.

Locate the starter solenoid and pull the small boot the blade connector so you can get to the larger black boot connector and peel that back so the 12mm bolt will be exposed. Loosen the 12mm bolt and remove the starter solenoid cable and loosly place back the 12mm bolt on the starter solenoid to keep it from getting lost. (This is the biggest cable lug on the positive battery cable.)


Part 1 continued.
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Old 04-12-2009, 12:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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do yourself a favor and solder it.
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Old 04-12-2009, 12:57 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Lengthy neg/pos. battery cable PIC part2 continued

4. Now, locate the engine fuse box.

Locate 80amp battery fuse here is a picture on the cover.

Here is the 80AMP battery fuse on the fuse box, look at it on top of my index finger.
5. You will be using your trusty philips screwdriver to take out that screw so you can remove that skinny looking wire. Immediately, put back the small screw back to the positive side engine fuse box to keep this from getting lost.

Once this wire is free you should be able to remove the positive battery cable from the car completely at this time.

The complete positive battery cable should look exactly like this.



6. Take your stereo wire and measure from your positive battery post to the starter solenoid bolt and nut allow to have a bit of slack. Mine is going to be 18.5 inches long.


One side will have 1.5inches of insulation taken out(this will be attached and shared with on the positive battery terminal. Take out 1/2 inch of insulation so you can crimp your 4 gauge "big hole: battery lug so it can be attached to the starter solenoid later on.

7. Take the stereo wire and measure from the positive battery cable to your positive engine fuse box. Mine came up to be 12.5 inches. One side will have 1.5inches taken out so it can be shared and attached to the positive battery cable. The other side will need 1/2 of insulation taken out and a 4 gauge "small hole" battery lug will be used. This will be put on the positive side engine fuse box.

Part 3 continued
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Old 04-12-2009, 01:46 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Part 3 and I am delirious.

8.In order to put in the (1) 4 gauge "small hole" battery lug cut the sides of the positive end of the engine fuse box with your scissor.

Once the plastic sides is cut so the 4 gauge "small hole" lug can fit it would look like this.

9. GReat! Time to put the battery cable together woo hoo! Remember that larger black rubber boot that used to cover the 12mm starter solenoid bolt? It can now be reused again just be careful in not ripping it. I guess this can fall under an optional step.


10. Time to make the passenger strut tower to transmission bracket negative ground. Take note where both my fingers are pointing at. These will be where I will mount it. This is where my younger brother is highly needed so this picture can be done.

Take out your stereo wire and allow some slack. In this case mine will be 15 inches long.
Both ends will be stripped 1/2 inch so I can crimp a 4guage "small hole" battery lug on each end and taped up. This one will be fastened with 10mm bolts.

11. Left side valve cover to left headlight negative ground. size I came up with is 7 inches. The wire will need to be stripped 1/2 inch on both sides and use a the (2)4 gauge "small hole" battery lug.

12. Dang one last negative ground. The Left-rear valve cover to strut tower ground. This one will be built exactly like the other negative grounds. The measurements on this one is 5 1/4inches

13. sand down all mounting spots on the chasis with your coarse sanding paper or emery cloth, spray with Windex or any similar glass cleaner and wipe the debris off the mounting points with an oil-free towel.

Installing steps.
1st put positive battery cable on to the positive post then connect the the 12mm big hole battery lug and tighten the starter solenoid bolt with your 12mm combination wrench.

*Don't forget checking the small starter solenoid blade connection is attached at this time.

Hit up the positive battery terminal to positive battery fuse box and tighten down the screw and don't forget to put back the fuse box cover.

Now just install all your grounds and re-tighten.

Lastly, Install the negative battery terminal and ground and check the car. the cels.

After a bit it the cels should look like this.

Congratulations! I am now done typing my 1st DIY! Congrats for me after being stumped for so long and just got this car running by changing out all my grounds my car finally is able to run woo hoo! Please rep and thanks for reading this.

Last edited by castanagajt; 04-12-2009 at 01:56 AM.
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Old 04-12-2009, 02:09 AM   #5 (permalink)
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very nice but agree i perfer to solder them as well but great DIY.
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:39 AM   #6 (permalink)
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nice diy

but like said b4 you need solder....those end will come apart....they are solder on ends

use a torch and solder....heat the end and feed solder in the other end
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Old 04-12-2009, 09:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I am not really getting this solder thing too much guys. If this will make the join stronger than sure. Is this why you want me solder it? Will I be adding the solder on top of the joining copper battery lug to more exposed wire and then re-wrap it with electrical tape? Or do you want me to solder on the edge of the battery lug to the exposed wire? Once I strip it more.

A torch I really don't know about that man. I will turn to a Filipino Pyromaniac. Can I use a Weller soldering gun and will that kind of solder hold? If you guys give me a go then I will do a very short DIY on this soldering of battery cables probably next week if that is what you are interested to see. As for now I really need a break from cars for now.

But man 4.5 hours to do this and another 5.5hours to type and upload this for all of you has drained me.

Last edited by castanagajt; 04-12-2009 at 10:13 AM.
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Old 04-12-2009, 12:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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while i admire your atention to detail, what you did is prety much just a big thre upgrade (but insted of upgrading your charge wire you upgraded the wire for the engine harness) while removing the OEM wire... ive done this in every car i have owned
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Old 04-12-2009, 12:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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what they mean is solder the lugs to the wire

clean, flux, connect, solder with propane torch

good write up tho.
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dmc971989 View Post
while i admire your atention to detail, what you did is prety much just a big thre upgrade (but insted of upgrading your charge wire you upgraded the wire for the engine harness) while removing the OEM wire... ive done this in every car i have owned
My younger brother has just gotten the Honda bug so he wants to save every penny to get a 1987-1991 Honda Civic Real-time 4wd and a swap will be on the list. D16z6 so new engine harness will be fabricated up and I will definitely change the charge wires at one time, that solder thing too.

Until then, "If it ain't broke...Don't fix it." policy applies to me.
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by castanagajt View Post
My younger brother has just gotten the Honda bug so he wants to save every penny to get a 1987-1991 Honda Civic Real-time 4wd and a swap will be on the list. D16z6 so new engine harness will be fabricated up and I will definitely change the charge wires at one time, that solder thing too.

Until then, "If it ain't broke...Don't fix it." policy applies to me.
do it in 1/0 next time
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:52 PM   #12 (permalink)
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lol, wow 4.5 hours? if i spent that much time on a customers car doing this, i would be loaaaddeddd.

Then again, they wouldnt pay me for that much time for such a simple thing :P.

Looks good man, soldering is definitly the way to go but for a cheap upgrade its second to none.
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Old 04-12-2009, 05:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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lol, wow 4.5 hours? if i spent that much time on a customers car doing this, i would be loaaaddeddd.

Then again, they wouldnt pay me for that much time for such a simple thing :P.

Looks good man, soldering is definitly the way to go but for a cheap upgrade its second to none.
my thoughts as well.... but to each his own
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:24 PM   #14 (permalink)
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do it in 1/0 next time
I apologize but I don't get this 1/0 thing. As for taking 4.5 hours I have no regrets because it still looks awesome and I am not making money for it
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:25 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I apologize but I don't get this 1/0 thing. As for taking 4.5 hours I have no regrets because it still looks awesome and I am not making money for it
use 1/0 ga. wiring as opposed to what you used (it looks like 4 ga.)
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:49 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I see as long as it just a few bucks more than 4 gauge sure.
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Old 04-13-2009, 04:46 AM   #17 (permalink)
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as long as you buy it at the right place (online) it is
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:29 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by castanagajt View Post
But man 4.5 hours to do this and another 5.5hours to type and upload this for all of you has drained me.
You'll get better at Typing in your DYI's don't worry.


But Rep for taking the Time to take Pics and doing Work :td:
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