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View Full Version : what does it take for 13's?

VTEC2841
06-05-2007, 10:28 PM
say 150whp ?

in a EG hatch with weight reduction?


I went through our Dyno times and ET thread and goddamn it was discouraging.

I mean what is the point of building a car if its gonna run a 15 or a fucking 16.

I never got a clear answer on my last thread either.. would this setup give me 150whp?

jdm d15b vtec only 30k miles
crower stage 3 cam
an extensively ported head with a bit of milling
larger valves
pistons neccesary for atleast 11:5.1 compression
full valvetrain
skunk2/blox im portmatched to the TB
GSR Tb sent to maxbore
password js CAI
dynatech header if I can still find it on ebay.. if not dc 4-1
a full 2.5 exhaust

with a 75 shot later (mid to low 12's expected with this)

through a SI tranny

I need to put enthasis on the head.. it is gonna be a serious port job not some half assed job the head is gonna seriously flow 2/3's better then an average head. Is going to bigger valves really going to help? if you guys do not think the bigger valves are going to help I will return them.. opinions?

the top end on this motor is going to flow extremely well.. not going to be one bottle neck from the CAI to the muffler.

I am removing the rear seats, spare tire & jack, a/c & p/s, carbon fiber hood, windshield wiper reservoir, windshield wipers, bumper supports & etc etc.. a good amount of weight although I'm going to keep teh car looking like a street car.

with the top end and the cx chassis with the weight reduction I expect atleast 102 traps out of this car.. if you guys seriously dont think it is possible the car will be up for sale shortly. That thread was the most discouraging thing I have seen since I've decided to build up my d15b and if I'm going to go through all this work to run a high 14 Im going to sell the entire motor and just save my pennys and go b series

think that cam is okay? or should I go for a larger one? the bottom end will have some rod bolts.. and I'm going to do what is neccesary for it to handle 9k
CrazyConscious
06-05-2007, 10:30 PM
I hate to say it, but if you want to go fast...turbo is where its at for alot less money...

What you really need to do is get off the computer, build your motor, then come back and let us know what it ran...
The_Acid_Beaver
06-05-2007, 10:34 PM
There are several people here who have pushed into the 13s without doing anything that extreme. Traction, driving, and tuning are pretty much all the keys. The biggest thing holding you back with the list that you wrote is the stock transmission. A hybrid transmission will probably put you well on your way to achieving your goals.

Bs are the easy way, but you'll still have to work to get where you want to go. Either way, turbo is a lot more fun. =) That's just my opinion, though.
BLACK-KNIGHT
06-05-2007, 10:42 PM
why are you writing this its like asking what i need to run 13s when you have not run 15s

turbo or nawz, dont waste money on all those parts unless you wanna look nice, you can get the same power for 1/2 the price and b would be easy or you can swap a h22 or k20 dont forget good tranny and lsd
remoer
06-05-2007, 10:57 PM
here's the thread that will help you along your way. :TU:
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=53098
krychek57
06-05-2007, 11:35 PM
HP is only a small part of the equation, just ask SOHCinWA
Bizzar
06-05-2007, 11:40 PM
say 150whp ?

in a EG hatch with weight reduction?




Slicks and chassis setup. Thats always overlooked. Instead of all that head work just work on the chassis. Traction bars, stiff rears, lsd and slicks. Welcome to 13's.
transzex
06-06-2007, 12:31 AM
STock EG, Z6 motor and tranny, IHE, 55 shot on 20x8x14 slicks, first pass was 13.97 skipping right over the 14's from a 15.08 ET.
VTEC2841
06-06-2007, 10:40 AM
Slicks and chassis setup. Thats always overlooked. Instead of all that head work just work on the chassis. Traction bars, stiff rears, lsd and slicks. Welcome to 13's.

I understand that.. but I also want a car with some hp.. something that I can drop a gear on the highway and haul ass.

nobody has commented on the valves.. anybody?


btw my goal is to get this head to flow on par if not more then a b16a head.. that accompanied with the 11:5+ compression and the aggressive cam.. I do not see how 150whp is not achieved if everything else is in place.

what does a stock d15b head flow? what does a b16a head flow?
greasemonky50
06-06-2007, 10:42 AM
you need to lose weight yeah you to hit 13's lol
SOHCinWA
06-06-2007, 10:42 AM
No need for valves IMO... A good head package i.e. Porting, cam, springs.

Suspension and gearing is key. A 4.4-4.7 final drive will do wonders. Lighter flywheel. etc.
replica
06-06-2007, 10:50 AM
I wish someone knew the CFM of the heads...

The setup you listed, i don't think will see 150whp. Maybe 130-135whp. If you want to go all-motor, I suggest staying away from the single cam if you like having low balances on your credit cards. LS/VTEC = 13's, done.
24-7
06-06-2007, 11:00 AM
More compression, more head work and bigger cam.
SOHC_STUDENT
06-06-2007, 11:02 AM
you didnt mention your ecu tuning or lsd in your build, 2 of the most important mods IMO. All that gear won't go fast without a proper tune and won't get traction on an open diff.


you're looking at over $2K in engine alone

crower 3 cam and valvetrain $600
head work $750
pistons $150
paying a shop to put your pistons in $500

anyway, when you get your b series swap, look me up so I can roll you like a joint :bong:
SOHCinWA
06-06-2007, 11:04 AM
More compression, more head work and bigger cam.

Exactly..... Compression is the D's friend.. :TU:
VTEC2841
06-06-2007, 02:20 PM
you didnt mention your ecu tuning or lsd in your build, 2 of the most important mods IMO. All that gear won't go fast without a proper tune and won't get traction on an open diff.


you're looking at over $2K in engine alone

crower 3 cam and valvetrain $600
head work $750
pistons $150
paying a shop to put your pistons in $500

anyway, when you get your b series swap, look me up so I can roll you like a joint :bong:

headwork was no where near that.. it was a friend. I'm going used on cam and valve train and I'm still finding the pistons. I will put the pistons in my self.

this is very inexpensive..
SOHCinWA
06-06-2007, 02:33 PM
I hope you have a press to press the wrist pins out of the old slugs and into the new ones... Its not easy. And have a torch handy. I have not dyno'd my motor yet but I bet its not 150 at the wheels. But with a new gearing setup it may hit a 13 the way it is right now. Its all combination.
BigTuna
06-06-2007, 05:44 PM
2000lbs Crx 135 whp 117 tq 13.51 @ 98.1mph w/ 1.74 60'

Bone stock motor except for milling, P-29's, and a Crane Turbo cam, also ran on 93 pump gas.
shifty35
06-06-2007, 05:55 PM
2000lbs Crx 135 whp 117 tq 13.51 @ 98.1mph w/ 1.74 60'

Bone stock motor except for milling, P-29's, and a Crane Turbo cam, also ran on 93 pump gas.

Couple things to note here about hitting times like this...

2000lbs - the lighter the better!

1.74 60' - properly setup suspension, good slicks, and damn good driving.

With less than 150 whp, out there ripping new ones. No vtec even!

Nice setup tuna, can't wait to see what your next one does! :o