D15b7, cheap performance

[LiftoffOversteer]

Ok so I recently picked up a VERY low mileage EG6 dx. As you can tell by the title it has a D15b7. After reading a bunch on this board I realise I want to stay with this motor until it blows it's guts. I want NA power because tubos are gay honestly. Nothing like a strong NA motor.

Currently I have sitting in my room are a Blox intake manifold and Hondata gasket. I am picking up another head for it tomorrow and want to put a streetable cam in it that will not sacrifice low end/midrange with descent high end power for dd. And want to know what you guys recomended. Will I have to upgrade the valvetrain with whatever cam you recomend? I would like to keep this as cheap as possible. After getting the head done with better valvetrain I want to deck the thing as much as possible. What kind of compression could I get by just shaving the head? I don't mind running 93oct but like I said before it has to be streetable and somewhat reliable as it's my dd. How long will the bottom end last with say ~11/1 compression? What is the best size tb for my application. Could I use a oem B16 tb for cheap? Will the stock fuel system handle what I want to do?

Are the aem pulleys worth it? Should I buy an adjustable cam gear at a later date? Will either give me a noticeable increase in power?

Is the obx lsd worth it if I am only putting down 130whp. I plan to autocross it when finished upgrading to full GSR brakes.

Any info is very much appreciated. And if there already is a topic on this I haven't noticed could you link me to it if there's good info there.

[SilverStreak02]

You don't have an EG6. No EG6 had a D15B7. And turbos are not gay.

[LiftoffOversteer]

Well it's a 92 Dx hatchback and the engine code says "D15b7" so you must be mistaken. I'll take pics tomorow..

/Also to further fuel the fire, turbos suck and only should be put on diesel's and LS1's.

[SilverStreak02]

Well it's a 92 Dx hatchback and the engine code says "D15b7" so you must be mistaken. I'll take pics tomorow..

/Also to further fuel the fire, turbos suck and only should be put on diesel's and LS1's.

Take a picture of you VIN while your at it. And FYI, turbos don't suck, they blow :bong:

[LiftoffOversteer]

Yea unless I was extremly high and misread it when I put my DC 4-1 header on. I'll double check everything tomorrow.

[s_18]

EG6 is the chassis code for the JDM and EDM 92-95 Civic hatchback that came with a B16A2...

[LiftoffOversteer]

I thought EG6 was the designation for a 92-95 Civic hatch. I gues lurking honda forums since the turn of the millenium got me nowhere..

[K2e2vin]

EG, EF, DC, etc. etc. is the chassis designation on the VIN. The Civics described above are the "EG6". To know what your's is, just look on the VIN.

ie: I had a 88 Civic and CRX, which are described as "EF", but they're really ED8 and ED6(EF being the JDM cars).

[SilverStreak02]

I thought EG6 was the designation for a 92-95 Civic hatch. I gues lurking honda forums since the turn of the millenium got me nowhere..

You drive an EH2

[slebidia]

Who gives a shit? You know what he meant. If you aren't going to answer any of his questions then stop fucking whoring his thread.

[88efcivic]

mild cam...vavle train if u plan on taking past stock rev limiter...pullys are ok but i havent heard to much hype about them...start off with intake/header/exhaust and just go from there...i had a turbo b7 and beat b16'sss all day turbo on a d-series to me is the way to go but hey if all motor if what u want gluck and go with it

[s_18]

Quick route to a good setup:
D16Z6 intake manifold
D16A6 stock cam
D16Y7 stock cam gear

And an EX tranny to top it off :TU:

[T-MacK]

I have a B7, and it is crammed with a Delta 272 camshaft and a Y7 Rage racing cam gear. Very good power pick up for this engine. You can keep you're stock valve train with know problem, I rev my engine to 6800 on a daily basis. Good price I picked both up for around $280.
Really good buy.

I would stay cler of any Pulleys. Honda makes pretty good ones and they know wht there doing, besides they have been known to make less power when installed. You should have know problem putting on a B-series TB on you're IM. Hope this helps.

[shifty35]

Ok so I recently picked up a VERY low mileage EG6 dx. As you can tell by the title it has a D15b7. After reading a bunch on this board I realise I want to stay with this motor until it blows it's guts. I want NA power because tubos are gay honestly. Nothing like a strong NA motor.

Currently I have sitting in my room are a Blox intake manifold and Hondata gasket. I am picking up another head for it tomorrow and want to put a streetable cam in it that will not sacrifice low end/midrange with descent high end power for dd. And want to know what you guys recomended. Will I have to upgrade the valvetrain with whatever cam you recomend? I would like to keep this as cheap as possible. After getting the head done with better valvetrain I want to deck the thing as much as possible. What kind of compression could I get by just shaving the head? I don't mind running 93oct but like I said before it has to be streetable and somewhat reliable as it's my dd. How long will the bottom end last with say ~11/1 compression? What is the best size tb for my application. Could I use a oem B16 tb for cheap? Will the stock fuel system handle what I want to do?

Are the aem pulleys worth it? Should I buy an adjustable cam gear at a later date? Will either give me a noticeable increase in power?

Is the obx lsd worth it if I am only putting down 130whp. I plan to autocross it when finished upgrading to full GSR brakes.

Any info is very much appreciated. And if there already is a topic on this I haven't noticed could you link me to it if there's good info there.

Honestly, the reason most people go turbo on a single cam is because it is difficult to get a "satisfying" amount of power out of them the N/A route. You could easily spend > $1000 on N/A stuff and still fall short of 130 whp.

That being said, your best bets for making good N/A power:

Headwork. If you have a spare head you are working on, a mild port/polish couldn't hurt. My calculations show using a 3-layer metal headgasket from a Z6/Y8 and .030" off the head will put you at ~10:1 compression. You will also need an adjustable cam gear to correct the cam timing.

Intake. The Blox mani you have will work great, as will a stock B16/B18 throttle body. Find a good cold air intake with a quality filter - short rams simply don't make power like a CAI.

Cam. Many options here, since A6 heads share the same casting as B7. A stock A6 cam is a good upgrade. You also have Delta regrinds and Bisimoto cams, which are HIGHLY recommended (the Bisimoto ones).

Header. A high quality header is the focal point of any good N/A build. Don't cheap out on this one or you will probably fall short of your power goals. Good stuff here is the Bisimoto header, SMSP, or a similar custom long tube 4-1 header.

Tuning. Your factory P06 ecu can be chipped and tuned to extract a great deal more power from factory settings.

N/A is a tough road, but knowing where to get the power from is way better than buying tons of aftermarket BS that really doesn't matter.

[T-MacK]

^^ That's why I recomended The Delta 272, he said he is on some what of a budget and the Bisi camshaft will cost a hell of a lot more not to mention he will need to spend money on upgrading his valvetrain. And with a 4-1 header he will loose a lot of midrange and bottom end power which he stated he did not want to sacrafice. So stay with a 4-2-1 if you want to keep more bottom end power. And when we dynoed a couple of cars last summer with the same setups with a DC header and an E-Gay header there was know difference in HP. You're just as good to spend money on a Megan header or something similar to save money.

[Visormurp]

Thank you for starting this thread. I just left a local shop very disappointed because they wouldn't suggest anything to squeeze extra power out of my D15b7 except turbo or swap.

With i/h/e, would the A6 cam and AEM adjustable cam gear be enough to increase hp 4-7 hp w/ an = amount of torque? Secondly, how difficult would it be to install the A6 and cam gear for a person with basic mechanical ability (I installed the header myself and do my own simple tuneups)...not trying to jack this thread...I'm in the same D15b7 boat and just want more elaboration on the above suggestions

[shifty35]

^^ That's why I recomended The Delta 272, he said he is on some what of a budget and the Bisi camshaft will cost a hell of a lot more not to mention he will need to spend money on upgrading his valvetrain. And with a 4-1 header he will loose a lot of midrange and bottom end power which he stated he did not want to sacrafice. So stay with a 4-2-1 if you want to keep more bottom end power. And when we dynoed a couple of cars last summer with the same setups with a DC header and an E-Gay header there was know difference in HP. You're just as good to spend money on a Megan header or something similar to save money.

Absolutely, the Megan / copies are great for the $$. Just trying to give him a range of what's out there.

[ghettoracer]

OBX LSD = great bang for the buck. do it.

[LiftoffOversteer]

Thanks everyone for your info/support. I would like to stay NA since I already have a nice DC 4-1 header. A turbo can come way down the road after I get a LSD and clutch/flywheel. I plan on picking up a AEM true cold air intake for it aswell. Or if any of you think the Fujita one is better. Also the stock B16/18 tb will bold right up without any mods?? Does it have any extra shit for vtak I should worry about?? I just want things to go as smoothly as possible since I try to do all my own work.

[LiftoffOversteer]

To the guy bitching about me calling it an EG6. You are correct sir. I took pics and the vin says otherwise. Extra pics included.

[shifty35]

Thanks everyone for your info/support. I would like to stay NA since I already have a nice DC 4-1 header. A turbo can come way down the road after I get a LSD and clutch/flywheel. I plan on picking up a AEM true cold air intake for it aswell. Or if any of you think the Fujita one is better. Also the stock B16/18 tb will bold right up without any mods?? Does it have any extra shit for vtak I should worry about?? I just want things to go as smoothly as possible since I try to do all my own work.

The B series throttle body will bolt right up and cause no problems - just use the TB gasket that matches the TB. The AEM intake is a nice piece, but do whatever works best for your budget so long as it is a true cold air. Clutch is a good thing to upgrade, but if you are looking for best 1/4 time, stick with a stock weight flywheel. Transzex has timeslips to prove lightweight flywheels make you slower. ;)

[SilverStreak02]

Does it have any extra shit for vtak I should worry about??

OMG... :tool:

[88efcivic]

shifty35 is deff right listen to him he hit it right on the head

[jdmhatch12]

a quick setup is a ZC cam and a z6 IM with a crome chip ecu with a basemap.. thats my setup and its a 4sp and i woop on zcs

[LiftoffOversteer]

Thanks Shifty35. I was already thinking of contacting Transzex to find out abotu installing an obx lsd when I have the money towards the end of summer.

[transzex]

if BOTI was going to Joilet/Rt 66 I could save you some money on shipping.....but they aren't.