Passenger LCA and Axle replacement (Paging tranzex lol)

[DxC]

I discovered yesterday that the front lower control arm, sway bar endlink, and axle are about to fall off of my car, and i've been doing a bit of research. I have an oem LCA and axle on the way ($50 a piece, what a steal) as well as an Energy suspension endlink kit. I'm going to go to the dealer and get new bushings and bolts. I was hoping some of you guys could clarify how exactly i replace these parts. I've got the tranny removal DIY and my chilton manual in front of me, but I can't tell which parts are for which side of the car and the chilton manual only has the 84-87 and 88-91 LCA sections in the front.

So far it looks like (abbreviated)

1: drain the tranny fluid

2: disconnect the hub from the drive shaft

3: pop the lower ball joint (can i re-use that or do i need to get a new one)

4: I'm assuming here I would disconnect the other 2(?) bolts and the endlink so I can remove the LCA

5: Slide the axle out of the hub

6: Here's where it goes into removing the driver's side axle. I'm assuming i can skip that part but someone please confirm this. Does the passenger side require the same screwdriver trick to remove the axle from the tranny? And is that just prying the driveshaft off the transmission with a screwdriver and wiggling it away?

7:I guess here i slide the new axle in and tap it with a rubber mallet, possibly replacing a c-clamp or something?
from the DIY:
- Lube the drive shaft/axel splines with some grease so they don't rust and are easy to take out in the future.
- Torque the castle nut on the lower ball joint to 55Nm
- Install the cotter pin on the castle nut (YOU MUST NOT SKIP THIS!)
- Tighten the 32mm hub nut to and bend the metal tab into the indent (YOU MUST NOT SKIP THIS!)

8: reconnect the LCA to the swaybar and other mounting points

9: reconnect the axle to the hub

Hopefully this is somewhere near correct, but please let me know what i am missing or have out of order.

I'll take pics when i do this and do a writeup or something too

much d-series love

steve

[Richie_A_19]

It will explain itself when you get down there to do it.

Screwdrivers are NOT pry-bars.

[DxC]

lol so use a prybar? I was going off step six from the DIY

6. Next we need to seperate the driver side driveshaft from the transmission housing. When doing this, NEVER just pull on the shaft as you will pop the joints! To get it loose, you will have to wedge a screwdriver between the transmission casing and the inboard joint to pry it apart from the casing. Hold the driveshaft like so when prying it/pulling it out:

[Richie_A_19]

Yeah... Screwdrivers are for screws. ;)

[DxC]

well i'm glad that's the only mix up so far, I'll go get a prybar.

also,

Do i need any grease for the axles or anything or just MTF to refill the tranny?

[Richie_A_19]

I'd say a little grease for the axles @ the spindles. It makes it so much easier to put them back on. :TU:

Make sure you spray all the bolts down with wd-40 before you start. Remember, bolts twist and break when a constant force is applied. So use a burst of force when you loosen those bolts.

Consider replacing all the bolts in the LCA. They will be old and weak. Same with the ball joint.

[DxC]

is the Super High Temp Urea Grease (Honda part number 080798-9002) what im looking for the axle spindles?

[Richie_A_19]

Yeah, just a basic black thick grease. The stuff you can buy at Walmart will work.

[DxC]

lol i hate walmart. evillllll

[Richie_A_19]

ok costco ;)

[Mixelplix]

MTF to refill the tranny?


Most people use 10w30 motor oil. The factory service manual for my 91 crx says "10w30 or 10w40 se, or sf grade - 2 quarts for a rebuild".

-Des!