how much are limit strap?

[RedRocketEK]

anyone know where to get a set and for how much? i need a set for my ek. thanks!

[CrazyConscious]

a what?

[Dweezil]

You do know those are only if your lifting the front end off the ground, right?

[spool'nsol]

limit straps are nylon straps that connect from the chassis to the suspension to keep the struts from fully extending. correct me if i'm wrong. I'm sure you probably cant find any pre made for a honda, but it should be fairly easy to make your own.

[Dweezil]

Your right, and you really shoulden't need them unless your useing really short springs and stock length shocks.

[CrazyConscious]

Seems kinda pointless to me...just upgrade everything and be done with it...

[Bizzar]

I guess you guys don't go drag racing. Limit straps can lower your ET in a big way :)

[Dweezil]

Yeah, if your suspensions that serious and your not running custom length shocks then just quit before you kill yourself.

[spool'nsol]

the only time i've ever seen them used is for like baja racing trucks

[Dweezil]

I guess you guys don't go drag racing. Limit straps can lower your ET in a big way :)

So can spring inserts in the rear or cutting coils, but on a FWD car you really don't need them now days.

[Bizzar]

Then you're not making power.

On launch, weight transfer will go to the rear naturaly. On stock or even slightly modified rear spring/struts it will quat. It will continue to squat until the front has reached its limit or the rear bottums out causing severe wheel spin. This is where limiting straps come into play on a FWD. Pros get to use those nifty wheelie bars to keep the power planted to the front but who wants to rock those? You have a few options on a daily driver/weekend warrior. You can put in some adjustables in the rear or stiff ass springs. Traction bars do help but to an extent so why straps? The shorter the front can travel the sooner the weight transfer comes back to the front and keeping your car a comfortable daily driver ride. Shall I move onto hockey pucks on the rear struts or wait for another chapter.

[spool'nsol]

hockey pucks? I'm gonna need to find some kind of solution, b/c I'm shooting for 350-375 whp on my hatch.

[transzex]

he talking about the rubber coil spring inserts to limit rear squat, you can fit 7 per side on stock coils......they hurt my 60 foot and ET.

But I only had 118 whp and running low 15's at the time.

The best example I ever say for someone needing limit straps. Chiovnidca his first night on slicks. his 12.00 pass the car literally lifted straight up when launched a good 3-4 inches if not more......front and rear, looked like hit hit the hydro's/air bags when he launched :)

[RedRocketEK]

well the thing is the more the front stays planted to the ground the bigger the contact patch of the tires which = better 60fts i have drag launch rear springs with a set of traction bars and 20" slicks. and i do have suspension upgrades i was looking at buck02's but cant find a price on em'. thanks for the input guys i guess you never know how good they work till you try em'.

[transzex]

with the 20's, doubt the straps will help much......

22x8x13 for more sidewall......

[ronald55555]

just make them yourself, not hard at all. You can use the strut tower bar holes at the top, and tons of places in the bottom to loop around or bolt on to.
I'm making straps for the rear right now for autox, and it's a pita finding a place to mount them at the top. Works fine w/o the straps, but certainly wouldnt hurt, since my inside rear does lift quite a bit.

[transzex]

with straps the inside rear gonna lift higher, how are they to help?

[ronald55555]

with straps the inside rear gonna lift higher, how are they to help?


it just helps the spring stay in place, and to help it transfer that wee bit more load from the unsprung weight to the other cross pair to help it rotate better. The problem isnt the lifting, since you pretty much have to to get a fwd to rotate. I would rather it be off the ground, than dragging with barely no load, bouncing all over the place when going over bumps, and locking up when i trail brake or left foot brake the slightest bit, race rubbers are cheap.

[ronald55555]

and it doesnt make that clunking noise when the spring gets unloaded and reloaded.

if you have a stiff spring, it's hard to have both ends stay on the shock when in droop. you can get your shock shortened exactly the way you want it down to the millimeter, but if you want the spring to stay on the shock, you cant change your ride height ever again. If you try to raise the car, you will preload the springs, so you can only raise it until it doesnt sag anymore, but you would have no negative travel and the spring might bind. If you try to lower it the spring will be loose at full droop.

[Chiovnidca]

The best example I ever say for someone needing limit straps. Chiovnidca his first night on slicks. his 12.00 pass the car literally lifted straight up when launched a good 3-4 inches if not more......front and rear, looked like hit hit the hydro's/air bags when he launched :)
Yea, the second run was the worst. I think it jumped completely off the springs. :shocked: Planning on cutting up an old 2" tow strap for limiters. Still giving it some thought.

[transzex]

and it doesnt make that clunking noise when the spring gets unloaded and reloaded.

if you have a stiff spring, it's hard to have both ends stay on the shock when in droop. you can get your shock shortened exactly the way you want it down to the millimeter, but if you want the spring to stay on the shock, you cant change your ride height ever again. If you try to raise the car, you will preload the springs, so you can only raise it until it doesnt sag anymore, but you would have no negative travel and the spring might bind. If you try to lower it the spring will be loose at full droop.

Dual tender spring setup......