View Full Version : Port matching
BoogiepopJDM
11-27-2006, 10:10 AM
What is a good bit to use with your dremel for porting?
marcin
11-27-2006, 10:20 AM
the dremel really doesnt have the tourque or size burrs to do things right. i have done it with a dremel but i woudnt recomned for anything except detail work. if you want to port. you need proper burrs with 1/4" shanks and a die grinder to match. a dewalt is nice but my bearings went faster then id expect them too. although cheap and replacable. then a variable speed set up, i used a light switch type with variable setting.
you can get realy nice burs from
http://www.carbidebur.com
for finishing flap wheels, cartrige rolls, etc. i recomend ruffstuff.com
m.
BoogiepopJDM
11-27-2006, 08:52 PM
my dremel is a 35,000 rpm variable speed.
Dweezil
11-27-2006, 09:02 PM
Skip the overpriced Dremel bits and get them from an industrial supply/tool and die supply. 1/8" shank rated to 37,500 RPM or higher are easy to get, and cheaper than getting them from Dremel. You can use it, but it takes awhile to do any serious work. I used one with 1/2" sanding drums to port match my Z6 intake to the IM gasket and to the throttle body. I woulden't use carbide if it's your first time and your working with aluminum. That and you don't want to remove to much.
marcin
11-28-2006, 06:43 AM
the issue is not with rpm but rather with tourque, the dremel really lacks in that deparatament. Carbidebur will have the 1/8" shank dremel burrs and they are very nice. Nothing wrong with using carbide burrs, double cut ones keep things a lot more steady then the alumacut or single cut(fast material removal) ones. Just so you know, you cannot use stone on aluminum. Also you will need to use some sort of oil on the aluminum otherwise the burrs will fill up and not work. WD40 works but is toxic when it burns. i use a cup of mobil1 on the side that i dip the burr in as i work. I would recomend you pick up atleast one 1/4" shank piece even if you use it with your drill. If you need recomendations i can help out.
m.
BoogiepopJDM
11-28-2006, 08:28 AM
the issue is not with rpm but rather with tourque, the dremel really lacks in that deparatament. Carbidebur will have the 1/8" shank dremel burrs and they are very nice. Nothing wrong with using carbide burrs, double cut ones keep things a lot more steady then the alumacut or single cut(fast material removal) ones. Just so you know, you cannot use stone on aluminum. Also you will need to use some sort of oil on the aluminum otherwise the burrs will fill up and not work. WD40 works but is toxic when it burns. i use a cup of mobil1 on the side that i dip the burr in as i work. I would recomend you pick up atleast one 1/4" shank piece even if you use it with your drill. If you need recomendations i can help out.
m.
thanks i appreciate it i'll def hit you up
sql_civic
11-28-2006, 08:51 PM
I port matched my Y8 in about an hour using a dremel and 2 bits - a cone shaped grinding bit and a barrel shaped one.
20civic00
11-28-2006, 08:58 PM
doing that yourself sounds hard...is it?
20civic00
11-28-2006, 08:59 PM
and what if you mess up while port matching?
Dweezil
11-28-2006, 09:01 PM
If you take your time and use 80-100 grit cartridge rolls it's pretty hard to really mess anything up. Useing carbide when you have no experiance is almost a guarentee you'll take off to much.
20civic00
11-28-2006, 09:02 PM
aight cuz im gonna order a y8 mani with a b16 tb and i want the mani port matched
Dweezil
11-28-2006, 09:05 PM
Just line the new gasket up on the IM and mark the area(s) you need to remove material with Dykem and a awl, or you can use a sharpie if you don't want to buy anything. Always keep the bit moving to insure everything stays smooth. If you leave it in one spot you'll end up with ridges that are a bitch to get out later.
20civic00
11-28-2006, 09:11 PM
Just line the new gasket up on the IM and mark the area(s) you need to remove material with Dykem and a awl, or you can use a sharpie if you don't want to buy anything. Always keep the bit moving to insure everything stays smooth. If you leave it in one spot you'll end up with ridges that are a bitch to get out later.
i think i can do this...ive never been skilled in the art of persicion though
Dweezil
11-28-2006, 09:14 PM
Don't worry about perscision, just keep moving.
marcin
11-28-2006, 09:27 PM
opening the intake manifold throttle body hole.
that you do not want to use a dremel for.it is going to be hard to get a nice round hole using a 1/8 shank piece. there is a much better method for this. use a drill. go to home depot and buy a i think its a 3inch flapper wheel 60 grit or maybe 80. itll take a little work but ram that fucker into the opening of the TB on the intake manifold. as you work more itll get easier to get it in and out of there. this will give you a nice round hole and will port match in no time. If your really crafty youll buy the 12in extension and use it to get into the pleneum as well to build some volume in there. This is a piece i did years ago. the runners were portmatched with a dremel. its doable but really lacks the tourque like i said earlier.
m.
http://sohchonda.com/cpg/albums/dvious-hatchies-chit/normal_mani_port.jpg
http://sohchonda.com/cpg/albums/dvious-hatchies-chit/normal_manihole.jpg
Dweezil
11-28-2006, 09:31 PM
Drills don't do that bad of a job, I've never used one on an intake, but on an exhaust mani once. Took longer than a proper die grinder, but it did the job.
Arachnid
11-29-2006, 07:16 AM
if you doubt yourself then don't do it, mos likely you'll mess things up
20civic00
11-29-2006, 07:44 AM
i can allways have one of my crafty friends help me out...how about boring or honing the im out to match the tb? my friend's dad owns a shop in his backyard and has like 6 machines he uses to rebuild engines.
i'm talking the motor out of the new car i buy and im having him put fresh cylinder walls in and put forged internals on the block and a skunk 2 valvetrain for the head. just preping for some hardcore boosting yo.
marcin
11-29-2006, 07:59 AM
what i wrote about the intake manifold opening and using the large flap wheel.. that is hard to mess up. the large wheel is key there.
m.
gimmezell
11-29-2006, 04:57 PM
any body online do port matching? You would send them what you have and they would do their thing.
remoer
11-30-2006, 08:26 AM
hers's my ghetto porting job diy... lol
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=37901
BoogiepopJDM
11-30-2006, 10:55 AM
i feel pretty confident, i rather take my time doing it then messing up with a carbide. time is not an issue ive been pieceing this build togther for a few months a few minutes a day wont matter.
goomer416
11-30-2006, 01:18 PM
from what i understand, port matching isn't really that effective and a waste of time unless u r going forced... just what ive heard...
Dweezil
11-30-2006, 05:54 PM
Who ever told you that either had no clue what they were talking about or was an idiot. Any time you can minimize pumping losses and/or get more air in and out of your motor YOU WILL MAKE MORE POWER! Going by that "logic" mandrel bent tubing is a waste compared to crush bent just to give an example.
goomer416
12-01-2006, 04:13 AM
Who ever told you that either had no clue what they were talking about or was an idiot. Any time you can minimize pumping losses and/or get more air in and out of your motor YOU WILL MAKE MORE POWER! Going by that "logic" mandrel bent tubing is a waste compared to crush bent just to give an example.
im jsut going off what i was told man... i guess i know better now dont i
marcin
12-01-2006, 06:48 AM
from my personal experiments with dykem and flowing ports, there is little activity around the walls and port matching does little. if you are pulling a head apart only to port match, you may want to reconsider. The valve job is going to the most important part. The short turn, devider, throat, deshrouding in the chamber, are also things that are important. how much and how/where to take off are things you can only learn with years of learning and expriance. I played with about 5-6 practice heads before doing my own. The more i learned the more i realized that i did not know. There are so many variables and areas to touch or not.
i agree with throttle body matching because that is usualy a big variance.
One other thing to think about. What makes you think that the person who designed the gasket knew the ideal cross section for best flow in that part of the port?
m.
wilky
12-01-2006, 06:52 AM
Very good Point about the head gasket design.^^:TU:
goomer416
12-01-2006, 08:49 AM
my dad works as a millewright as there is this stuff you can get... im not sure what its called but u lay the sheet on, then press the 2 whatevers together and and it shows the imprints of both sides... but i was told it didnt really matter so ive never tried it...
lohatch
12-01-2006, 07:25 PM
gaskets arent stencils
BoogiepopJDM
12-01-2006, 08:49 PM
actually my not pulling the head this is a head swap 8 valve head to a 16valve since i have it in front of me i just want to smooth out the sections of air flow
goomer416
12-02-2006, 07:28 AM
gaskets arent stencils
this stuff isn't a gasket... its actually used in industrial aplications and is used for checking absolute correct matching... so im guess it would work perfect for matching the ports....
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