tranny toast(?) what should i get now?

[Lotek]

Alright, I've got a 98 ex d16y8 and there is something wrong with the tranny. I'm not sure its all 100% the tranny, but part of it is at least(maybe the mounts too?).

Please bare with me as i am new to engines, and a virgin when it comes to trannys.

When i start the car, it makes this loud crunch/clunk sound. it doesn't do it if i start it, then stop and start it again or recently had it on. this is what i was thinking might be the mounts, all tho i may just be talking out of my ass.

At high rpm 3rd and 4th slip a little bit(i think, ive only done it once and im afraid to take it up that high to check again before i have the money to fix it).

Its always had this prob, but never as bad as now, it doesn't always want to go into 1st. same resistance feeling as it not wanting to go into R. sometimes its really bad.

I also have the famous 2nd to 3rd grinding, and it has gotten alot worse.



A buddy of mine with an accord had the same shit with first gear happen to him and 2 weeks later his tranny went nuts. the mechanic said it was due to the shift linkage?

p.s. this dude drive like a nut job. kicking the clutch pedal, speedshifting, and redlining it just on the way to the gas station for a pack of smokes. i can feel his car's pain from a mile away.




SO. what do you think i should do? i am planning on taking it to a shop, but i don't want to pay for a blow job and end up with a reach around, if ya know what i mean. i drive her pretty hard but want her to last a bit. what do you think will prolly need to be replaced, and what do you think i should replace it with?(i.e. what kind of new clutch/pressure plate etc.). i do predict boost in the future once i have learned alot more and feel safe doing such things to the car(she is my daily btw and needs to stay that way).

Thanks in advance for any help guys.

[green_hornet_96]

Slipping in 3rd/4th, used up clutch. Hydro clutches don't adjust iirc.

As for shifting, when is the last time you changed your tranny fluid? If you haven't done it recently, change it out with Honda manual transmission fluid from the dealer. Usually old fluid causes crappy shifting, old meaning >30k miles according to honda, >10k miles according to my paranoia-meter.

Unless its related to the clunk you say and the mounts really are that bad, then yeah the shift quality isn't gonna be good at all. The shifter has two solid rods to the tranny, and if the engine/tranny move before the shift forks inside the tranny can, compounded with the sloppy OEM shifter bushings, you gotta wrestle all those bushings while shifting to make it go.

My bad mount was the driver's side lower one by the A/C compressor, but the others can go too.

[Lotek]

ill check that out. thanks.

also, it doesnt totally engage all the time when starting out in first. it will have like partial drive power and chug along for a sec, then it till fully engage and be okay.
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any more ideas would be greatly appreciated.

[green_hornet_96]

If it doesn't engage immediately in first, whether the clutch slips or something is messed up (aka broken) in the tranny, the motor would rev and not bog down.

Now if you're talking chugging at low rpm, that's normal for any y8. Even with stock airbox and exhaust there still isn't any appreciable torque below 2000rpm. You only have ninety-seven cubes of displacement pushing you down the road. Heck, if I wanna go quick, I pretty much have to rev to 3000 or so and slip the clutch hard to keep it from bogging or trying to spin *hop*cough

I don't think your tranny is toast. It's not like an automatic that slips clutches all the time when it needs a rebuild-- NOTHING can slip inside the transmission of a manual (except synchronizers, those are supposed to in order to ease shifting...). All power is transferred through gears.

Common reasons for y8 manual transmission going out-
-bent shift fork messes up alignment of hubs, can't deselect a gear. Replace fork and probably get to teardown a shaft to replace parts. Unless you manage to select a gear on another fork while the defective fork still has another selected... simply put, massive STRRIIIP or BOOM.
-wrong oil or oil never changed, wears out bearings prematurely as everything is gravity-fed (no oil pump). Mainshaft bearings go first. Can be changed, bearing known as ISB is easiest. If this happens, tranny still works right but has loud grrrrrrssssh noises (some is normal, but noisy enough to hear with the radio turned up is not.)
-ATF used in the tranny, 'nuff said.

D-series trannies are SIMPLE. I've had mine out and apart twice and all I've worked on otherwise is tractors and snowmobiles. Just a flywheel/clutch on the engine, and in the tranny two shafts with six pair of gears on them, forks that slide hubs into the gears to lock them to their shafts (this is how a gear is selected), an extra sliding gear for reverse, a differential, axle seals, a sluice for getting oil into the first shaft, and a bunch of bearings.

To illustrate the inside of a y8 transmission-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/charlie_chicadee/d-series%20file%20hosting/25f882a8.jpg

Hope this gives some direction.

[Lotek]

alright cool thanks. ill look into it tomorrow when we are looking at the mounts.