tuning for turbo.

[94z6ex]

Well, im about to start buying parts to build my motor for turbo. It will hopefully be a 300whp daily driver @ 15-20 psi

I have most everything planned out except for the tune. And this is where i need the help of members who know their tuning.

I plan to use uberdata, and the reason for this is because there is a local guy that is relatively cheap.

1st off, it will be a street tune and not a dyno tune. Will that make much of a difference?

2nd, this guy seems to ubnderstand what is needed as far as making a good and reliable tune. But, as far as i know, he has only tuned with uberdata on NA setups (with nitrous, which i guess would be considered forced induction). BUT he has hooked a wideband to an srt-4 and tuned the air fuel using an SAFC from Apexi.

My question is, does uberdata have alot of boost support with their tunes?

And, What types of things do i need to look for while he is tuning and changing fuel maps and ignition maps.......i guess just to make sure that nothing major is getting changed that could cause my engine to blow?

Is tuning for turbo and tuning NA ALOT different or is it the same concept (get the air fuel ratio correct, which on turbo, isnt about 12:1 air/fuel about right?)?

Sorry if this seems like a bunch of stupid questions, but i would like to get my car tuned through this guy. He knows his stuff NA, but i would just like to know how much different it is tuning for NA and tuning for boost (besides the margin for error.)

thanks, and again, sorry if this is a stupid question.

[kyle h.]

If he is offering to tune your car he prob. knows enough not to blow it up.

Ask him some questions and learn from him while he's tuning your car.

And yes, street tuning is pretty much all the same concept, FI or NA. You can make good power on a street tune, but it takes time. He'll most likely keep you with safe timing maps and fairly conservative fuel.

You will make more power on the dyno, just because its a great tuning tool, and allows people to really play with fuel/timing maps.

If you want a map to compare to, I have an uberdata map that made 228whp on my stock d16z6 with a 60 trim .48 ar t3 turbo.

[94z6ex]

If he is offering to tune your car he prob. knows enough not to blow it up.

Ask him some questions and learn from him while he's tuning your car.

And yes, street tuning is pretty much all the same concept, FI or NA. You can make good power on a street tune, but it takes time. He'll most likely keep you with safe timing maps and fairly conservative fuel.

You will make more power on the dyno, just because its a great tuning tool, and allows people to really play with fuel/timing maps.

If you want a map to compare to, I have an uberdata map that made 228whp on my stock d16z6 with a 60 trim .48 ar t3 turbo.


yeah, if i could use your map to compare to, that would be great.

I appreciate it............thanks

[DOHCDX]

tuning for boost is more (IMO, much more) complicated and more dangerous in terms of blowing the engine if you aren't doing it the right way

15-20psi is REALLY pushing the limit of 93 octane fuel, and you need to use some form of knock detection at that high of a boost level to ensure you don't have ANY detonation.

i personally wouldn't feel comfortable only street tuning any engine at that high of a power level. i street tune first using -1deg retard/psi then dyno tune for peak power. each form of tuning supplements each others weaknesses (street = good for real world/driveability but hard to get peak power, dyno = good for peak power but doens't factor in wind resistance and part-throttle driveability)

[94z6ex]

tuning for boost is more (IMO, much more) complicated and more dangerous in terms of blowing the engine if you aren't doing it the right way

15-20psi is REALLY pushing the limit of 93 octane fuel, and you need to use some form of knock detection at that high of a boost level to ensure you don't have ANY detonation.

i personally wouldn't feel comfortable only street tuning any engine at that high of a power level. i street tune first using -1deg retard/psi then dyno tune for peak power. each form of tuning supplements each others weaknesses (street = good for real world/driveability but hard to get peak power, dyno = good for peak power but doens't factor in wind resistance and part-throttle driveability)


I've heard that 15-20 psi would be safe on 93 octane and i've heard that it is pushing it. Chances are is that i will run about 17-18. What can be done for knock detection? Just a simple circuit ran from the knock sensor that when the sensor is activated (or sees knock), will light up an LED (or something of that nature)? Is that what you mean by knock detection?

thanks for the reply

[DOHCDX]

my buddy has been running 18-20 on his built a6, but recently got a bad tank of fuel from BP and chipped a piston and cracked a sleeve

search for "det cans" on honda-tech
edit: http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1555006

[kyle h.]

saying that the limits of 93 octane are being pushing @ xx psi doesn't really work. because you can tune around these variables...

it's like a huge algebra equation, you have to adjust certian variables if you want them to equal another variable.

[siregcivic]

im using uberdata...

its just as good as crome imho... just make sure that when he sets up the boost maps to set it up to pull timing with boost.. like how mines setup.. for every psi of boost it pulls .5 degree of timing so at 8 psi it has pulled 4 degrees... just start off easy on the timing and get the fuel maps good then start with timing maps..

im pretty sure im runing on stock timing maps but it pulls timing for me automatically.. ive been on this " basemap " for 2 weeks now at 10 psi and it doesnt run lean.. or get hot