grease up the car

[superdewey58]

anyone ever grease up there car , i notice all sorts of grease fittings and im starting to get sqeeks
so i think i will grease it up
is there a specific grease i should use?

[turboedpickup]

just the typical grease - u can use the same stuff you would use on a short shifter.

[superdewey58]

cool thanks man, now its just finding them all

[ryan89crx]

ive never once greased any fittings on my car. i really should, grease is important if you want parts to last. i guess im just a bum...

[superdewey58]

hey i had this title first man

yea im thinkin its a good idea to do, especially caz i drive my car harder than the average driver, which i would assume most of us do

[turboedpickup]

for me, the first thing i greased was the squeaky parts...and that was only the door hindges (spelled right?) but now they're squeak free.

[modsHXcivi]

Lube = Smooth Sailing ....Do It!!

[Mixelplix]

I must be a nut... I grease my vehicles every oil change with mobil1 synthetic grease.

It's gotta help. My last Wrangler went 185K on the stock steering components, and I greased that thing every 3k since I bought it new.

It's cheap insurance really. A tube of mobil1 runs me about $9.99, and lasts a year or so (for 3 vehicles).

I have to admit, it's much easier on my Rubicon.. I hate greasing the CRX because the fugger's so low.

-Des!

[superdewey58]

yea when i do ill put it up on jack stands, ill try to take pics of all the differentones as well, maybee i ll do a how to grease the car write up

[charliemopps24]

I must be dumb, but how do you service grease fittings? Is there an adapter on a hose that hooks to the fitting or something?

[Pyro336]

I must be a nut... I grease my vehicles every oil change with mobil1 synthetic grease.

It's gotta help. My last Wrangler went 185K on the stock steering components, and I greased that thing every 3k since I bought it new.

It's cheap insurance really. A tube of mobil1 runs me about $9.99, and lasts a year or so (for 3 vehicles).

I have to admit, it's much easier on my Rubicon.. I hate greasing the CRX because the fugger's so low.

-Des!

Thats the way we did at the shop i worked at every time an oil change camge through they got greased up.

[superdewey58]

u get a grease gun, it fits right over the the fitting

[Mixelplix]

Right, get one with a flexible tube head though. The ones with a metal tube are a pain.

Sometimes there's another fitting used in U-Joints (not on any Honda I've seen) where it takes grease through a needle (like an air-needle for a football). Those are cheap too.

-Des!

[superdewey58]

good info

[Lule]

This may sound odd, but I've owned five Hondas from a 1983 Accord to a 2005 Element and I have yet to see a zerk fitting anywhere.

What are you greasing? Are these aftermarket parts? Is it just certain models?

[Honda4VW]

ive never once greased any fittings on my car. i really should, grease is important if you want parts to last. i guess im just a bum...


X2

[Mixelplix]

This may sound odd, but I've owned five Hondas from a 1983 Accord to a 2005 Element and I have yet to see a zerk fitting anywhere.

What are you greasing? Are these aftermarket parts? Is it just certain models?

I have grease fittings on my UCA ball joints, and my LCA ball joints. I don't know if they're aftermarket or not, but they're there, so I grease them.

Here (http://www.desmondr.com/CRXManual/62SH200/4-2.pdf) is the FSM for an '88 CRX describing all the required lubrication points.

-Des!

[Steve-O]

I have grease fittings on my UCA ball joints, and my LCA ball joints. I don't know if they're aftermarket or not, but they're there, so I grease them.

Here (http://www.desmondr.com/CRXManual/62SH200/4-2.pdf) is the FSM for an '88 CRX describing all the required lubrication points.

-Des!i believe those diagrams show points to spray grease onto or wipe it on with a brush (or lubricate with graphite grease prior to re-assembly). not that you're wrong, but i'm also with lule and honda4vw with the zerk fittings and i'm a honda tech in ontario canada (one of the provinces which falls under severe condition in the honda manual).

off the top of my head, the only grease guns we have here at the dealership that get any repeated use are the ones we use to lubricate the hoists or our air tools. i believe i've seen universal joints on the awd vehicle driveshafts with fittings but that's about it to my knowledge. then again, i'm an apprentice so take that how you will because i don't know it all....well, not yet anyways ;).

*edit* i believe the multi-purpose grease refers to the honda white lithium spray grease and the black (now blue or yellow) axle and suspension grease which comes with cv boots and items of that nature.

i know the low to mid-grade (sometimes even premium) aftermarket suspension and drivetrain components will have fittings on them
because they don't have sealed bearings or boots like oem parts do.

[Pyro336]

i believe those diagrams show points to spray grease onto or wipe it on with a brush (or lubricate with graphite grease prior to re-assembly). not that you're wrong, but i'm also with lule and honda4vw with the zerk fittings and i'm a honda tech in ontario canada (one of the provinces which falls under severe condition in the honda manual).

off the top of my head, the only grease guns we have here at the dealership that get any repeated use are the ones we use to lubricate the hoists or our air tools. i believe i've seen universal joints on the awd vehicle driveshafts with fittings but that's about it to my knowledge. then again, i'm an apprentice so take that how you will because i don't know it all....well, not yet anyways ;).

*edit* i believe the multi-purpose grease refers to the honda white lithium spray grease and the black (now blue or yellow) axle and suspension grease which comes with cv boots and items of that nature.

i know the low to mid-grade (sometimes even premium) aftermarket suspension and drivetrain components will have fittings on them
because they don't have sealed bearings or boots like oem parts do.

i dont have a single one either, like is said every oil change if you got'em

[5spd4dr]

No zerks on mine. I actually went out and bought a grease gun and some Mobil1 Synthetic grease because my steering was creaking (not the belt). When I got under the car, I couldn't figure out how I was supposed to lube it up or where the lube points would be...

[Steve-O]

No zerks on mine. I actually went out and bought a grease gun and some Mobil1 Synthetic grease because my steering was creaking (not the belt). When I got under the car, I couldn't figure out how I was supposed to lube it up or where the lube points would be...
your creaking steering might be a dry/bad balljoint or dry suspsion pivot point.

on hondas, the p/s fluid lubricates the internals of the rack which is why when people remove the pump and resevoir and leave the rack open, they go bad. the only grease i know of that you add to the rack is inside the inner tie rod boot. other than that, the rack is sealed because when they leak from the inner seals, the fluid seeps into the boots then travels back and forth from side to side via the breather tube which joins the two boots.

i'd still keep the grease and gun for other things. ES makes stabilizer bar pivot bushing kits with universal greaseable brackets which utilize zerk fittings. plus, the grease makes a nice packing lube for cv boots or any other areas where you need a durable all-weather grease :TU:

castol syntec synthetic wheelbearing and driveshaft grease is also a great choice to use. i have it and it's great :TU:

[snguy82]

yea when i do ill put it up on jack stands, ill try to take pics of all the differentones as well, maybee i ll do a how to grease the car write up

Please do a write-up on "greasing the car" cuz I have no idea where Im suppose to grease up (Im a noob :( ). My car has 300,000km so I think Im due for some greasing. How do I grease my suspension? Its getting really ruff, and I can feel every single little bump. I just sprayed some lithium grease up into the suspension, but feel no difference.

thanx

[lowcrx]

I must be a nut... I grease my vehicles every oil change with mobil1 synthetic grease.

It's gotta help. My last Wrangler went 185K on the stock steering components, and I greased that thing every 3k since I bought it new.

It's cheap insurance really. A tube of mobil1 runs me about $9.99, and lasts a year or so (for 3 vehicles).

I have to admit, it's much easier on my Rubicon.. I hate greasing the CRX because the fugger's so low.

-Des!

say here every oil changed and a grease job to go with it...

[No_xqcs]

I have only greased my short throw shifter upon installation, the small boot that holds it was all cracked so I bought a new one (junkyard->new oem)

[Steve-O]

Please do a write-up on "greasing the car" cuz I have no idea where Im suppose to grease up (Im a noob :( ). My car has 300,000km so I think Im due for some greasing. How do I grease my suspension? Its getting really ruff, and I can feel every single little bump. I just sprayed some lithium grease up into the suspension, but feel no difference.

thanxif your vehicle is a honda and the suspension feels rough or you can feel every little bump, check all your components for wear or play. i have yet to see an instance where lubing the suspension aleviated rough ride concerns but anyone is free to correct me otherwise. it usually boiled down to tire pressures too high or parts worn/broken/experiencing free play.

in most cases, many of the suspension joints on hondas are so tight together that there is almost no way for any lubricant to get into them when sprayed directly on them. the best way is to always use a quality anti-seize, graphite paste or spray grease when re-assembling parts. coat all exposed metal and areas where there is or may be metal to metal contact points with said grease/lube/paste.

i know whenever i put a bolt, nut, part, etc back onto a car, it has a nice dark grey coating of graphite paste with molybdenum. now, you don't have to buy honda's $70/small jar of M77 stuff, but any quality brand( like MolySlip AS-40) with molybdenum will do fine as it can be used on brakes as well as suspension parts. it's the only stuff i used now (and for the aesthetically concerned owners out there, it's almost invisible when applied to dark suspension parts compared to silver or copper anti-seize

FYI, according to a recent bulletin we got here at the shop, copper or silver anti-seize is NOT recommended by honda to be used on brake parts, only lubes with molybdenum.

[OniFactor]

molybdenum FTW!

[snguy82]

if your vehicle is a honda and the suspension feels rough or you can feel every little bump, check all your components for wear or play. i have yet to see an instance where lubing the suspension aleviated rough ride concerns but anyone is free to correct me otherwise. it usually boiled down to tire pressures too high or parts worn/broken/experiencing free play.

in most cases, many of the suspension joints on hondas are so tight together that there is almost no way for any lubricant to get into them when sprayed directly on them. the best way is to always use a quality anti-seize, graphite paste or spray grease when re-assembling parts. coat all exposed metal and areas where there is or may be metal to metal contact points with said grease/lube/paste.

i know whenever i put a bolt, nut, part, etc back onto a car, it has a nice dark grey coating of graphite paste with molybdenum. now, you don't have to buy honda's $70/small jar of M77 stuff, but any quality brand( like MolySlip AS-40) with molybdenum will do fine as it can be used on brakes as well as suspension parts. it's the only stuff i used now (and for the aesthetically concerned owners out there, it's almost invisible when applied to dark suspension parts compared to silver or copper anti-seize

FYI, according to a recent bulletin we got here at the shop, copper or silver anti-seize is NOT recommended by honda to be used on brake parts, only lubes with molybdenum.


Hey, thanx for ur response.

My car has 300,000km on it, so Im sure it has some "wears". Im not sure what u mean by "play".

I asked my mechanic and was told that it would cost something like 700 for new suspension on my civic. And no, I dont know how to do it myself. I think suspension are too important to be messin' around with if u dont know know what ur doing (like me). So mad props to the guys that do everything at home (self-taught mechanics)! I only change my oil, general tune-ups and do body-work at home.

Besides, it feels more like a sports car when u can feel everything. lol But yah it is pretty ruff.

cheers

[Printz]

molybdenum FTW!

I thought i was the only one that thought of that :TU:

[Steve-O]

My car has 300,000km on it, so Im sure it has some "wears". Im not sure what u mean by "play"..."play" is a term used to describe when a part exhibits movement other than that which it is intended for. for example, a new wheel bearing when installed should only allow the hub to turn and not be moved by hand in any other direction. when it has play (is starting to wear or go bad), you can wiggle the wheel with your hands while the car is off the ground on a hoist for example.

if a part exhibits play, it usually means it is worn, loose and/or needs to be replaced.

also, if your bushings need replacing, consider energy suspension's master set or prothanes master set. i have ES's master set for my civic and it is definitely worth the money IMO.

[snguy82]

"play" is a term used to describe when a part exhibits movement other than that which it is intended for. for example, a new wheel bearing when installed should only allow the hub to turn and not be moved by hand in any other direction. when it has play (is starting to wear or go bad), you can wiggle the wheel with your hands while the car is off the ground on a hoist for example.

if a part exhibits play, it usually means it is worn, loose and/or needs to be replaced.

also, if your bushings need replacing, consider energy suspension's master set or prothanes master set. i have ES's master set for my civic and it is definitely worth the money IMO.


Thanks Steve-O,

being a noob, I appreciate you taking the time to explain these terms. At the moment, I'll have to ride out the suspension until I can figure out whether to put money in my civic or go for a newer car. $700 to do the suspension on a 300,000km civic is HUGE! Canadian market is much more expensive than US I think.

But i'll certainly look into the ES master set if I ever get around on doing the bushings.

thanx again.

Steve

[Steve-O]

Thanks Steve-O,

being a noob, I appreciate you taking the time to explain these terms. At the moment, I'll have to ride out the suspension until I can figure out whether to put money in my civic or go for a newer car. $700 to do the suspension on a 300,000km civic is HUGE! Canadian market is much more expensive than US I think.

But i'll certainly look into the ES master set if I ever get around on doing the bushings.

thanx again.

Stevei'm from ontario as well. southwest, chatham-kent to be exact. to be honest, it all depends on what condition your car is in. i often though about just selling my eh2 and buying an Si, RSX or an EP SiR. but the more i think about it, if i take even HALF the money i'm spending on a newer vehicle, i could pretty much restore my car from the ground up with all new oem and top notch aftermarket parts, not to mention make it faster than any stock Si or RSX. besides, the EG chassis is hands down THE best of all civics. it's like the mustang of hondas...lots of aftermarket support and easy to work on.

if the body of your car is in good shape (or if what's wrong can be repaired), don't let the kms on your engine discourage you. you'd be surprised how many people out there would knock you out in a dark alley for a eg hb in decent shape. i just see it as instead of dumping $15-20K on a newer vehicle, i could make one look damn good and go pretty darn fast with even half that amount.

it's up to you but remember that once it's gone, it's gone and you'lo be lucky to find another one in good shape.