green_hornet_96
10-14-2006, 08:27 PM
Long story short:
I wanted an oil pressure sender and couldn't find anything for the british standard pipe tapered thread (stock sensor location) that I liked to remote mount the sender and keep the stocker. Ended up buying an oil filter relocation kit (Trans-Dapt) as it has 1/2" NPT on every connection. Ran into problems.
Short story long:
I made a bracket that holds the remote mounted FL1A filter horizontally, immediately above the transmission torque mount, which is pretty much exactly where the bottom of the OEM airbox used to be. It's not up by the hood, but just above the level of the stocker. I came up with some piping to try to see if it would seal and tee off the oil pressure sender. Problem was, the adapter on the block didn't have deep enough threads to seat the gasket and I didn't realize it. Thank goodness I though enough ahead to try and prime the system and see if I got pressure before running it.
I found out the hard way that a y8 oil pump is capable of dumping a quart and a half of fresh oil onto the garage floor in between 5-10 seconds when it's not developing pressure :TD:
Then I started looking everywhere I could online about hose and wondered about the integrity of what the kit came with. It has 30" hose rated for 300psi, but I'm worried about the "push-on" connectors it has. No clamps, but the hose does turn on the supposedly leakproof, non-swivel fittings.
So basically, I'm looking at:
-another block adapter, don't know what can accept the darn long nipple on the block
-probably new line but I don't know what size it should be. I read about people using -8 AN or -10 AN on Earl's fittings. I would lean towards the -10 AN just to be safe, probably stainless braid to avoid swell but that chafes anything touching it. Also, regular hydraulic hose is a viable option but then again, I don't work in that field and have NO idea what is available. Any hose should reach easily at 30" of length.
-Whether or not this is even safely feasable. After all, 4.3L Chevy Blazers and select 5.4L F-150s come with a remote mount from the factory, but I can't remember what kind of line they use.
Summing it up:
I would like to either finish or scrap this project soon because this Fram I put on there in the meantime SUCKS IN EVERY WAY POSSIBLE. Actually VTEC has become one of those things that doesn't work anymore because the darn thing doesn't have a BYPASS like it should.
That, and Trans-Dapt positively dropped the 8-ball when they were doing their "application cross-reference." Consider them negative-repped.
(BTW I found a post by transzex after I got into this where he listed everything needed to put the oil pressure sender on the firewall for about $50, including matching BSPT fittings going either way from pegasus somethingorother.website, I hate murphy's law. It would be nice to have the filter front and center there tho, instead of tucked above my 4-1 collector)
I wanted an oil pressure sender and couldn't find anything for the british standard pipe tapered thread (stock sensor location) that I liked to remote mount the sender and keep the stocker. Ended up buying an oil filter relocation kit (Trans-Dapt) as it has 1/2" NPT on every connection. Ran into problems.
Short story long:
I made a bracket that holds the remote mounted FL1A filter horizontally, immediately above the transmission torque mount, which is pretty much exactly where the bottom of the OEM airbox used to be. It's not up by the hood, but just above the level of the stocker. I came up with some piping to try to see if it would seal and tee off the oil pressure sender. Problem was, the adapter on the block didn't have deep enough threads to seat the gasket and I didn't realize it. Thank goodness I though enough ahead to try and prime the system and see if I got pressure before running it.
I found out the hard way that a y8 oil pump is capable of dumping a quart and a half of fresh oil onto the garage floor in between 5-10 seconds when it's not developing pressure :TD:
Then I started looking everywhere I could online about hose and wondered about the integrity of what the kit came with. It has 30" hose rated for 300psi, but I'm worried about the "push-on" connectors it has. No clamps, but the hose does turn on the supposedly leakproof, non-swivel fittings.
So basically, I'm looking at:
-another block adapter, don't know what can accept the darn long nipple on the block
-probably new line but I don't know what size it should be. I read about people using -8 AN or -10 AN on Earl's fittings. I would lean towards the -10 AN just to be safe, probably stainless braid to avoid swell but that chafes anything touching it. Also, regular hydraulic hose is a viable option but then again, I don't work in that field and have NO idea what is available. Any hose should reach easily at 30" of length.
-Whether or not this is even safely feasable. After all, 4.3L Chevy Blazers and select 5.4L F-150s come with a remote mount from the factory, but I can't remember what kind of line they use.
Summing it up:
I would like to either finish or scrap this project soon because this Fram I put on there in the meantime SUCKS IN EVERY WAY POSSIBLE. Actually VTEC has become one of those things that doesn't work anymore because the darn thing doesn't have a BYPASS like it should.
That, and Trans-Dapt positively dropped the 8-ball when they were doing their "application cross-reference." Consider them negative-repped.
(BTW I found a post by transzex after I got into this where he listed everything needed to put the oil pressure sender on the firewall for about $50, including matching BSPT fittings going either way from pegasus somethingorother.website, I hate murphy's law. It would be nice to have the filter front and center there tho, instead of tucked above my 4-1 collector)