D16Z6 Automatic Rebuild

[RoninBlackSoul]

I got 95 civic coupe and about last week my car statrted running like crap. Did a compresion test and numbers poped like this from 1-4: 125 155 160 160

I also noticed that the number 1 cylinder spark plug still looked new and the rest had the rusted look to them. There new plugs, had them in for about 3 weeks now. So I placed a little bit of oil in the spark plug hole and redid the compression tests and got: 150 160 160 160. Now the guage might have been shoddy but I feel these are reliable numbers to go off of. So basically I either have some bent valves or bent rod. I do know my car idles 1500-2000 warming up, idles real low when warm and shakes bad.

This is what I want to do. the motor has close 120k and I never got the chance to change the timing belt. I got a new belt and water pump coming my way. Since I got to do this and repair whatever is broke. I might as well prep my motor best as possible for the future turbo upgrade. Future plans of wanting to make 175-200 whp.

I want to be able to rev into the 8000 since I got an auto and it drops out of vtec when changing gears. I was thinking about buying stiffer springs, maintain stock retainers and valves. I'll be getting new or used valves to replace everything in the head. Thinking about putting in a6 pistons to bump up compression and thick head gasket since that might be too high of an compression. Plus arp head bolts, new spark plug wires and lightend accessory pulleys.

The problem is that I'm stationed overseas here in Naples, It and well.... pretty count out on anykind of realible mechanic, so I'll be doing all this myself with only the tools I have access to. I would like to be able to all the replacing without taking out the block nor I'll be able to do anykind of milling. Maybe some pnp but I need my car running so I have no time for that. I want to be able to just swap/replace out everything and seal her up and have it working. Would I be able to do this? And any furhter ideas that can help me out her, please.

Thanks

[FMYStreetRacer]

if you put oil in the cylenders and the compression came up then that means that you have bad rings not valves. i just did a compression test on the new motor that i put into my car as well. it skakes once it get's warmed up to. i had something like 180, 185, 180, 110. i then put oil in the #4 cylender and the compression went to 150. i now know that i have bad rings in the #4 cylender.

[RoninBlackSoul]

Okay, thanks... in either case I still want to replace my pistons for higher compression. Would I be able to swap in the a6 pistons and need not to worry about deck clearances?

[FMYStreetRacer]

yep. you could even go as far as useing the pm7/p29 pistons for a compression ratio of almost 13:1

[RoninBlackSoul]

Thats way to high since I'm going to be turboing my car later on. Though I have access to 95/98 octane at the pump over here. But main concern if I will have any problem replacing pistons, valves (maybe), springs, thicker metal head gasket without any modifications at all. This is really important. I trust no one working on my car in this country so I might have to do it myself and I never done any egine work to this caliber to my car.

[FMYStreetRacer]

if you have never done it then i wouldn't suggest dooing it over there. i would wait till your back home. and if your going to go turbo then i wouldn't put the a6 pistons into your car.

[RoninBlackSoul]

Well I have to replace either my valve train or piston/ring because my car is basically running on 3 cylinders. I'm for more than 2 yrs and I need my car to get to work. There is no other choice but to fix it. Plus there is a safety inspection coming up in a few months so I need my car functioning properly. If people didn't rip you off here so bad I would take it to an mechanic.

[RoninBlackSoul]

Theres got to be more helpful opinions on this matter.