D16A6 Problems - How do these parts come off! (pics)

[Aquariust]

OK guys, any help is appreciated!

First off I can't get this pulley off. Every time I try and get it off, the motor spins and the nut obviously stays tight. That's with a breaker bar. I also tried with my impact wrench, but it wouldn't do it either, although the motor didn't turn when I used that. Also, what way do i go to get it off? Is it one of those bolts that is backwards so it doesn't spin off by itself?

http://defcon200.bizland.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/engine037.jpg

Second, I have to get the exhaust manifold off, but as always the nuts are stuck on due to the heat. I DON"T want to break the bolts off, so what do I do? Spray some wd40 or liquid wrench on them and let them sit overnight and hope for the best? Or do I HAVE to use heat? I have access to a propane torch, but I doubt it would get hot enough. I might be able to get ahold of a acyetolyene (spelling?) torch if I have to. Any other ideas?

http://defcon200.bizland.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/engine042.jpg

Thanks for the help guys!

[oldschoolteg]

hold the impact on that crank bolt till it comes undone. use pbblaster on the exhaust. It works, just be sure and come back and respray before you loosen them.

[Honda4VW]

hold the impact on that crank bolt till it comes undone. use pbblaster on the exhaust. It works, just be sure and come back and respray before you loosen them.

Yeah pbblaster or some kind of rust renetrator. The only way you will beark the bolts is if you try to overpower them. Definately use an impact wrench, and be patient. If you can't get any of them to budge, try again a little bit later.

[Lule]

The crank bolt definetly needs the touch from an impact gun. Cheeseball guns like Cambell-Hausefeld(?) generally don't cut it. Don't use extensions, as they lessen the whack from the impact.

Don't stress out on the the manifold nuts. Either the nut will come off or the stud will unscrew. ARP just recently began offering metric stainless manifold bolts. Rust is so ugly.

[Aquariust]

lol, figures, I have a cambell hausfeld impact gun! $30 at home depot! I'll give it another go tomorrow, and I forgot I turned down the psi yesterday because I was gun nailing into luwan plywood. See what happens.

Where can I get pb blaster? Any auto parts supply chain? I've never seen it. I sprayed the bolts good with wd40 tonight.

Thanks for the help guys!

[Lule]

Sorry about the cheap impact crack :roll: PB Blaster should be available at most auto parts stores.
I currently use a Porter-Cable impact gun rated @ 400 ft/lbs with resonable success.

[AK_CRX]

Heres a trick I learned from a little filipino mechanic... Turn your wheels all the way to the left, put the car in fifth, lock the ebrake, stick your impact under there, try to loosen it... Heres the trick, if it doesnt loosen right away, switch your impact to tighten and jam on just long enough for it to tighten even a millimeter, then switch it to loosen and it should come right out with one pull of the trigger VROOM, your done. What this does is breaks the bond of the thread lock that the factory puts on, without that it doesnt stand a chance to an impact

[Aquariust]

thanks for the info, but 1 problem, the motor is on the floor of my shop:)

BTW, I still can't get it off! I'm gonna have to try and find some way to stop the motor from turning over so I can use my breaker bar. I don't want to distort the flywheel or pulley. I see honda makes some kind of key to lock the flywheel, anyone know where I can get one, besides honda?

thanks all

[Lule]

If you have access to a pickup, try loading it up and drive it to your favorite auto repair shop. Wave some money around and you may get someone to put a big, honking impact on it to take it off.
If you want to go with the flywheel holder route, there are many available in belt form that sit on top of the teeth and the type that grabs in between the teeth.

[ghettoturbo]

i have an awesome cambell hausfeld gun....from b4 they turned into home depot crap. try cranking the pressure on your compressor up

[Aquariust]

Well I got all the header bolts off no problem, thanks to some wd40 and your vote of confidence!

As for the pulley, it's still on. I have cranked the psi up as far as it goes.

I have 2 mechanic buddies. One's a block from my house and I've been bringing my creations there for over 10 years, from bicycles, go carts, mopeds, mini bikes, and now my cars. I don't really trust the guy to do my real car work, but to borrow tools I go over quite often. I usually buy him some coffee or drop a $5 for his help. I'll have to take the motor over and see if he can get it off, or he usually just lets me take the tools home for a couple minutes.

My other mechanic buddies I trust inherently. They work on all the police cars in the city, and since my Dad's a cop I get a discount. They'res a guy there we call Mr Myagi bc he looks like him! He's a race freak and he helps me with my miss projects. Thye're 20 minutes away so I tend to borrow tools from the other guy.

It's gonna have to wait til monday!

Thanks guys,

-John

[Kato]

Is the flywheel still on? If not, bolt it back up. This may not be the best way, it may damage the teeth on the flywheel. So if you have a spare one laying around, use it instead. You need to jam the flywheel, a bench vise with some creative thinking will do. If the head is still on, make sure the spark plugs are in to keep the compression within the cylinders. Basically anything that you can do to keep the crankshaft from turning is what you are aiming for. A breaker bar with a snipe, lots of pb blaster and a torch to loosen things should hopefully work.

If not, take it to a shop like I ended up doing lol.

There is a tool out there that will bolt into one of the tranny bolt holes and locks the flywheel in place that helps a lot. I don't remember exactly where I saw it online, maybe Summit?

Clicky. (http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/honda.html) Found this method. I gotta do my timing belt soon as well.

[Stealthmode]

I always put a fatty screwdriver in the hole in the flywheel, and tag the tip of it into the webbing of the block. It worked for me. Maybe it's just me, but I've also had good luck with "speed skate lube" (from the hockey bag, of course) on the manifold bolts. ::shrugs shoulders::

[SeeOurWrecks]

No doubt about it, those crank bolts can be a major pain... here's the method I use that's been succesful:
Parts Needed
A/C idler pulley
Couple bolts

What To Do:

Remove the A/C idler pulley & bracket from engine... then, remove idler pulley from the bracket. If you haven't seen this bracket, it's basically a flat pice of metal with (IIRC) two holes to bolt it to the engine, and a long slotted hole that the pulley bolts to; the top of the bracket has a 90-degree angle which is where the adjustment bolt goes through.

Remove the inspection cover from between the engine/trans; it has two bolts into the bellhousing, and four into/onto the oil pan.

Now, you take the bracket and turn the crank until the upper bolt hole in the bracket (on the flat part...) lines up with one in the flywheel... and bolt it there, obviously. Then, line up the slotted bolt hole with the bolt hole in the bellhousing where the inspection cover was fastened. Hard to describe, but easy to do.

Once tightened, the motor is locked in place, unable to turn either direction. Now you can use a breaker bar and a four-foot piece of pipe for leverage. Use quality tools, though; that crank bolt is so tight that I've broken impact sockets before the bolt would even budge.

You WILL prevail, however, if ya want it out badly enough. Oh BTW, don't forget to remove the bracket when yer done...

:wink:

Disclaimer: this method works for ME every time; whether or not it works for you, is beyond my control. Be safe, use jack stands, don't die, etc. etc.

Naturally, a big-ass impact wrench is preferable, but not always practical.
Good luck!

:D