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Cheetah
09-26-2003, 03:32 AM
My front brakes suck, bad. Sometimes I wonder if I'm going to stop or not.

Plus the front rotors (OEM Autozone) are slightly warped or at least it feels like it.

What can I do THAT IS COST FRIENDLY for a much better brake setup? Also that doesnt dust up too much on my chrome and gun-metal rims, I was thinking about EBC greenstuff?

90crxsi
09-26-2003, 09:57 AM
My front brakes suck, bad. Sometimes I wonder if I'm going to stop or not.

Plus the front rotors (OEM Autozone) are slightly warped or at least it feels like it.

What can I do THAT IS COST FRIENDLY for a much better brake setup? Also that doesnt dust up too much on my chrome and gun-metal rims, I was thinking about EBC greenstuff?

I have nothing but good things to say about axxis pads.
i am using powerslot slotted (crossdrilled, but that is beside the point) rotors, and although i get some fade in the canyons after about an hour of driving, i like the combo
Stan

Anonymous
09-26-2003, 03:23 PM
Do you want to stop or do you want to keep your shiny wheels clean?

Long Story Short: Good quality brake pads throw dust. Learn to live with that.

Axxis are OK for the street as long as you do not abuse them, but they are NOT a performance brake pad. I prefer Porterfield pads (but they are expensive).

The best cheap way to imporve your braking is to make what you got work better. Replacing the brake fluid, making sure the rear drums are adjusted correctly and that the emergency brake is adjusted are cheap to do and WORK.

OEM style rotors are plenty fine for the street, PowerSlots are good for the money. Cheap crossdrilled rotors will crack, expensive crossdrilled are treated to prevent cracking.

Use a torque wrench to tighten the wheel lug nuts to 80 lbs. It is amazing how "loose" this feels, but it is the spec. Overtightening your lug nuts will warp your rotors.

Scott

kommon_sense
09-26-2003, 10:38 PM
I have had good luck with AEM pads. They do dust, but not too bad. Best way to improve your braking is to do as suggested. Fresh brake fluid, ATE Superblue & ATE Type 200 are good choices. Brembo Blank rotors (OEM style). Slotted rotors are seldom needed and are quite expensive compared to brembo blanks. Add a fresh set of brake pads and break the system in properly. Also be sure to torque everything down correctly, wheels and calipers. This will make a world of difference.

Cheetah
09-29-2003, 12:30 PM
hmmm, so nobody here is too familiar with ebc? I was considering Brembo cross drilled rotors with the ebc's and new brake fluid. My current fluid s 120,000 miles old. Maybe that has something to do with it. I know I also need new rear drum pads. I think OEM HONDA will be the best way to go for the rears.

any more ideas, suggestions?

Eee Pee
09-29-2003, 05:53 PM
EBC was alot of hype, and ultimately, let a lot of the fellow racers down.

If you are concerned about dust, go with new OEM stuff.
Flush the system out with Valvoline's Synthetic. And fill it with that, too.

If dust isn't too much of a concern, use any of the above mentioned pads.

If dust is of no concern, nor money, look into Porterfeild, Hawk, or my personal favorite, www.Cobaltfriction.com

Best pads I've been on. But dusty. But STRONG. I use the GT Sports.

And like mentioned, service the rear drums regularly.
If you pull the E brake up a click, and apply the brakes, does the pedal feel stiffer?
If so, you need to adjust the rear drums.

Word.

Cheetah
09-29-2003, 07:00 PM
dude are you saying valvoline makes brake fluid?

I didnt know that. I dont think oem is going to cut it for me. I hardly ever go below 85-95 on the expressway (its Kentucky man!) and when another car wants to play sometimes its reallly necessary to get on the brakes. So, is there a good "best of both worlds?"

crxtscy
09-29-2003, 07:21 PM
Brembo blanks and Raybestos Ceramic pads. CHEAP street set up. Also make sure your fluid is nice and clean...I heard the heavy duty stuff that Ford trucks use is good. Who woulda thought?

chasloa
10-01-2003, 02:17 PM
I'd have to put my stamp of approval on the raybestos pads. they virtually eliminate brake dusting

Anonymous
10-02-2003, 08:20 PM
* Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines
* Brembo Front & Rear Cross Drilled & Slotted Rotors
* Axxis Front Brake Pads
* Honda OEM Rear Pads
* Motul 600 [DOT 4] Racing brake fluid

This is my fav. setup and I swear by all of the above...well the brembo disks are a bit much, but they work great. The more you use them during hard driving, the better they feel.

I am going with the slots only next time. I keep looking for cracks in the brembos but can not find any. 30K on them now.

To help reduce fade upgrade your brake fluid, and dont just buy any fluid, look for dot4 in a metal can, not plastic, water can get into the fluid via plastic cantainers over time, and god knows how long they plastic containers have been on the shelf. Motul is everyplace, motorcycle shops have it on hand mostly...and hey, if bikes use it, there must be something to it, ey?

Anonymous
10-02-2003, 08:21 PM
rear brakes? hummm, i use them when I park....hehe, its all about the front brakes in my world.

StreetMod
10-04-2003, 03:09 PM
I use Brembo slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads on all 4 corners for auto-x. This setup has worked well so far.

D16Z6racing
10-08-2003, 02:53 AM
I've always had Brembo Drilled and Axxis. Can't go wrong there.

AEM pads didn't show much improvement to me.

I now run on Brembo solids and cheap"Shucks" pads. Low funds, but it works.

farcyde92si
11-18-2003, 01:10 PM
Hawk race+ street, super aggressive pad will knock your socks off. It's too much for the street IMHO. If I had it to do over, i would have saved $100 and gotten axxis or something cheaper. Also, they munch rotors quick but for auto-x they were the shiznt. Stock honda in the back, never a problem. Oh and hawk race dust like an aerosol can, but leaves a nice dark gunmetal on your wheels so you can be trendy :roll: just be aware that the super high DOT fluid can bubble and accumulate fluid over time so bleed them more than you would your old timey brake fluid. An ounce of prevention. . .

HondaCivic90ED
11-20-2003, 08:47 PM
or spend 850$..... got it from www.fastbrakes.com its on a 1990 Honda Civic Dx hatch



http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid79/pc06481006d62532e26c89b2466832d19/fb21cc01.jpg

I started w/ stock rotors and upgraded them to stock sized brembo's w/ ebc green pads, eh, didn't care for em, the higher temp brake pads killed my brembo rotors and stopping from high speeds warped the rotors pretty quickly. And anything ebc says about their pads not giving off a lot of dust is bs, they dusted more than my stock pads did, esp on my white rims! My setup now is great! no fade, instant braking power w/ little movement on the pedal. Word of warning though, the pads that came w/ the kit are wilwood "D" compound. For street driving these pads do not heat up enough to be in their correct usability. I had loud screeching until I called Wilwood and ordered their "Q" compound pads, much better on the ears and on the rotors. The "D" is track specific for light cars, the Q is more apt for street driving. The kit came w/ Earls stainless steel brakes lines, custom adapter flange for the caliper, Wilwood Dynalite Caliper, all bolts and washers, Brembo 11" oversized rotors (over 9.5 stock, requires 15" wheel) and a set of polymatrix d compound pads, however replacement pads are relatively cheap, i got mine out of a local shop, www.behrents.com they deal in all of wilwood stuff exclusively. I think the pads were only 35$.

NastyHabitzCRX
02-15-2004, 01:00 AM
Change that brake fluid every 2 years, even putting fluid from a sealed can will still absorb water over time and weaken and damage lines and seals.

transzex
02-15-2004, 12:41 PM
change the brake fluid EVERY year, part of my "spring" tune up.

Besides it only takes 5 minutes to flush the whole brake system.

You do use speed bleeders right????

Brake fluid cheap at $5 quart. Hitting sometime because your fluid bolied or had water in it, $$$$$$$$

kommon_sense
02-15-2004, 06:26 PM
You do use speed bleeders right????


I have these and hate them. installed them, went back to rebleed the brakes about a year later and had a friend pushing the pedal. When he came off the pedal I could see the brake fluid being sucked back into the caliper. The little one way valve in those things is supposed to prevent that.

I ended up bleeding them as if they regular bleeder screws and brakes were better than they ever were when bleeding with the speedbleeders.

mdt017
02-28-2004, 06:27 PM
was gonna get aem pads but had a last min change of mind...
now i'm waiting for my carbotech bobcats to come in...

kommon_sense
02-29-2004, 08:26 PM
What was the price on the bobcats? I'm looking at ordering a set myself.