DIY Auto to manual (In detail)

[SOHC4life 96]

A buddy on honda-tech allowed me to post this here.

Recently i have been seeing alot of Auto to Manual swap related questions. And lately i have been having alot of people come to me with questions. And this last weekend i did this swap for someone from Las Vegas (SRCivic97 on here). This is in full detail and if you want me to go into more detail let me know and ill be more then happy to answer. I have 146 pics that i took but i had to cut them down to 44 so i could fit them on one thread. But if you want me to post a specific pic let me know. And now, lets begin.

First off the parts list. I could give an rats ass what you heard this is the parts that are needed and what were used and what was not used.

We had:

Car: 1997 Honda Civic EX (Auto)

Tranny: Y8 tranny. Actually you could use any D series Hydro tranny on your D series motor (B series is different obviously but use a Hydro B series tranny)

Clutch Flywheel: Resurfaced stock Flywheel from a 93 DX (was to lazy to send his flywheel off and we had one already resurfaced laying around, totally cool with owner.) But any 92-00 flywheel will work. Clutch we used an Autozone with resurfaced Pressure plate. With an used throw out bearing (just put some oil on it first)

Flywheel/Clutch bolts: Damn im kicking myself for not taking a pic of these. Anyway you need manual flywheel bolts along with clutch bolts. Part #: Flywheel: 90011-PM0-000 Clutch/PP: 90034-P10-A01

Mounts: This is alot of hear say for what to use. This is what you need and why. First off you need an upper tranny BRACKET (not mount) from a 96-00 manual tranny because the auto one doesnt even fit on the tranny, go figure :P (Part #: 50825-S04-000

Next youll need the lower tranny mount off of a manual 96-00 car. Also you will need 3 bolts to go into the tranny as well as 2 that go into the chassis (Part #s: Tranny bolts: 90190-SR3-000 Chassis: 90166-SR3-000

And finally a REAR TRANNY MOUNT Because the auto and manual are totally different. Here is a pic to tell the different. If you use an auto one it wont sit right, although you can use the AUTO bracket on the manual tranny. Part#: 50810-SR3-030

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTMxMjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Pedal Assembly: We used a manual pedal (gas to clutch) from a 96-00 manual. But actually all you really need is the clutch one. You could actually keep your auto pedals and just add a clutch one and your set. That way you dont have to worry about pulling the pedals out, which by the way is the hardest part of the swap. You are going to need to get a pin to hold the clutch to the peddle. Part #: 46912-SD4-000

Intake Manifold and Throttle body: You need a y8 manual intake and for throttle body we used an LS throttle body. You could use any manual throttle body, i suggest y8 so you dont have to play with the map. Make sure you get a 2 wire IACV with the intake because if you dont have that you will throw a code and run like ass. We also got a new intake manifold (Y8, use that even if your using a y7 head Part #: 17105-P2F-A02

ECU: Unless your doing something else that involves boost or different setup other then stock you will use a manual y8 ecu (P2P) You could also get a jumper and get a chipped ECU. Most chipped ECU's (if not all) use 2 wire IACV so youll be fine.

Shift Linkage: You need a Dseries manual shift Linkage from 92-00

Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder: Here you absolutly need one from a 96-00 Because the lines are completely different. Now you could probably use these from a 92-95 and just get a SS line and run it straight from the MC to the SC. But if you want the stock look with the hard lines and soft you need 96-00.

VSS: Incase if your tranny doesnt come with one you need a manual one because the auto will not work.

Starter: You need a manual starter along with this one bolt because its longer. Part#: 95701-10100-08

Axles: Use the Auto Axles.

Tools: Basic socket set (Craftsman 256 piece set is great (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@2120660805.1123823885@ @@@&BV_EngineID=ccdjaddfgjdjfimcegecegjdghldgfi.0&pid=00933263000&vertical=TOOL)), a hoist (its ALOT Easier with the motor out), Air if you can (oh man what i wouldnt do without air tools), Prybars (atleast 3 ft to seperate the tranny and motor), Needle Nose plyers, WD-40/PB Blaster, Goop, Quick Steel, and a Dremel. Thats the majority that we used.

Ok Lets begin =)


Pedals!

We got the car kind of late friday night (10/10:30pm, or atleast thats about the time we started) and first thing we did was the interior and pedals. I highly recommend getting this out of the way because the rest is a breeze. So sorry for the pics.

I had the lovely job of taking off the pedals and putting new ones in. Sucks ass i tell you right now. First you want to take off the lower cover of the steering wheel which is held on by 3 or 4 screws. Along with the steering column cover as well which is held on by 2 screws (sorry no pics for this). After that your going to want to drop the steering column. To do that theres 4 bolts (12mm) that you need to take off to do so. I highly suggest having someone help you so it doesnt scare you when it falls. Sorry forgot to take pic, to find these screws look under the steering column and follow until you see a bracket holding it up, take off the 2 screws and itll drop. Once this is dropped its time to strip the pedals.

First lets start off with the Gas pedal and whats attached. In this case we have a throttle cable and Cruise Control Cable.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI2MzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Well take off the cruise control because its pretty damn easy. Just flip the cable over and push out the pin.

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Now for the throttle your going to have to pull towards you then push it out. Theres a small holder for it once you get past the tab its good to go out. (It helps if you have someone holding the throttle body open for you)

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI2ODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

[SOHC4life 96]

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI2OTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Lets move over to the brake pedal. Now the brakes are like the gas. This takes a little bit of cursing to get out because your dealing with a cotter pin. Not a problem except for the fact that your kind of blind while your doing it. Pop off the cotter pin then pull out the connecting pin for the Master Cylinder to the pedal.


http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI3MDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI3MjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI3MzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg


Now lets move over to where the clutch pedal should be. You should see a big hole with a small hole on each side. Theyll all be plugged. In this case the owner of the car ran wires through his which i had to redo for him. But when you pop those out your ready to put the clutch master through there and put the clutch pedal in. It wont get in the way of the brake and gas while your taking them out and putting them in because you send them the other way.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI1OTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

[SOHC4life 96]

(no pics of the assembly in, but when you have it in theres 2 bolts that attach to the Clutch Cylinder and 1 up in the top.) Now get your pin and cotter pin and put them in and connect them, but dont twist the cotter pin. You dont know if youll need to adjust the clutch pedal yet so incase if you do then its easy to take off.

Now for the brake and gas to take off. For the brake there is 4 bolts that hold on to the master cylinder and 1 up top (kind of like the clutch). When you get those out move over to the gas which is held by 2 bolts (no pics). All the bolts are 12mm. There is also a brake sensor attacted. I suggest taking that off now. The problem with this is that the push is on the top side. What you could do is get a 12mm wrench and twist it so the push is in easy access.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI2MDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

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[SOHC4life 96]

Once you get it all stripped off and ready to be pulled have a friend under the hood pulling the master cylinder so you could get the pedals off easier. If your like normal people this is where youll curse alot. Dont worry about it take your time and just tell your friend to pull and pull because more then likely they dont have enough room to bend the lines. Dont rush this cause youll end up with cuts from stupid shit. And put the new in reverse order.

Center Console

I didnt do the center console, SOHC4Life did it, so any questions about this you could ask him. Honestly when i looked at the pics i didnt understand what the hell i was looking at. But my guess is take off every screw/bolt you see =) there is a time you have to go under the car to take out 4 nuts so the auto shifter comes out. I know that because i did it. Disconnect all the plugs and have some one under the car and send the shifter wires to them


http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI3NDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI3ODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI3NzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

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http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI4MTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

When all that is done you could move out to the motor.


Motor!

Most of the regular guys already know how to pull a motor out but for you non knowers todays your lucky day. Here is a quick rundown on how to pull a motor.

First drain all the oil and the coolant. While the coolant and oil is being drained pull the battery and start disconnecting the major connectors on the shock towers and disconnect the starter. I mark and take off the dist because its in the way of the hoist but its not a must. Also there are some coolant lines attached to the transmission. You could take those off with a 17mm socket.

Once everything is drained you could pull the radiator. Becareful because the coolant will still spill a litte. Take off all the heater hoses, fuel hoses, throttle cable, and cruise control vacuum line (if there is one).

Next take off the power steering and AC compressor. Those dont need to be connected. On the PS its 2 12mm bolts holding it on, when thats taken off move it to the side and out of the way. For the AC theres 4 bolts holding it to the mount. Take off those 4 bolts and just let it hang there. Dont worry about it because it wont be in the way and those lines are ment to move.

Now that thats done take off the wheels and start taking off the suspension. You will need a 17mm socket, needle nose, 17mm wrench, and a 1/2 ratchet. Take off the suspension fork with the 17 socket and wrench. When thats off take the needle nose and take off the cotter pin thats under the LCA and then take off the castle nut. Now with that 1/2 inch wrench lift the hub and make room to put the ratchet in there. When its nice a snug kick down on top of the rotor and that ball joint should pop right out. When thats done get the prybar and pull the axle out.

Now move over to the header and disconnect it from the exhaust. While your doing this your buddy should be setting up the hoist. When the hoist is safe take off the 2 19mm bolts from the rear tranny mount, and then get out of there. Go up top and take off the other 19mm bolt and the rear mount is set.

Go to the driver side and on the AC bracket is a mount. Take off the 19mm nut at the end then put a 17mm deep socket and take off the shaft.

[SOHC4life 96]

Take off the rest of the mounts and the motor should pull out with ease. If for some reason it doesnt thats because your attached to something hold the hoist where its at and disconnect what your stuck on. Sorry not to many pics for pulling the motor.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI4NDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

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http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI4NjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg


Transmission removal

Now that the motor is out its time to take off the tranny. First however you want to take off the starter. 2 14mm bolts. and you want to disconnect all the wires and sensors attached to the transmission. Honestly you could cut them all except for the VSS if you wanted. Now that the transmission is stripped and ready to go you have about 6 17mm bolts, 2 14mm, and 2 10mm bolts holding the tranny to the block. The 17mms are the big obvious ones (2 up top, 2 on the front (one on each side), 2 on the back). The 2 12mms are next to the oil pan on the stabalizer. And the 2 10s are on the dust cover. When those are off take your prybar and pry the tranny off the block. WARNING! Note that the Torque Converter holds ALOT of tranny fluid in there so be ready. Once that tranny come off tranny fluid will spill. I suggest getting a bucket ready and drain it before you deside to go on.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI4NzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI4ODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

[SOHC4life 96]

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI5ODZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Torque Converter

Now its time to pull this torque converter off. Note that this thing is pretty damn heavy. It has 8 or 10 (cant remember) 10mm bolts on the back of it and you need to rotate the crank to get to each bolts. When all the bolts are off it will just drop, no warning. When the converter is off youll see the flywheel with 6 17mm 12point bolts on it. Take those off and then your ready to put the manual stuff on.

No pics for the manual flywheel. But put on the flywheel bolts like this:

.......1........
....3.....5....
....6.....4....
.......2........

And the torque for these are 87lbs. Do the same with the pressure plate but the torque for those is 18lbs.

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Putting the transmission on. Take off the dowel pins from the auto tranny and put them on the manual one. Line it all up and put the new tranny on. 1/2 there now.

Intake Manifold

This is the man reason you want the motor out. You could move around the motor no problem and get to whatever you want. So the intake manifold is the easiest part. Take off all the wiring harness plugs that are attached to the injectors, sensors and all the coolant hoses. If this is your first time i suggest marking everything down so you dont forget where they go. There is 7 12mm bolts and a bracket holding the intake manifold on. Take those off and the intake is ready go come off. When its off make sure there is NO gasket on the head so you could have a good seal. If you think you might pull the intake manifold off again and want that gasket off with ease spray some WD 40 on it and next time its easy to take off.

When you put the new intake on make sure you go in this order:

.....4...2.....3....5....
..6..........1...........7

For the rewire follow the picture i have below that i took from jdmlyfestyle's thread.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTI5OTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

[SOHC4life 96]

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNDQ4MDEyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNDQ4MDEzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

Run the coolant lines the same way back and your set.

Clutch lines This is pretty easy run the lines. Theres hard and soft but they only go one way Sorry no pics.


Wind Plate!

Now you have the path that the auto cables go through and you probably test fitted your shift linkage up to it and was like "what the hell this thing is in the way" well thats correct it is. What to do is cut it out with your dremmel. You have 2 choices, 1. make a plate or 2 drive with a big hole, and lost of road nose and exhaust heat.

There is going to be a heat shield in the way, take off that heat shield and if you want to do what i did your going to cut a piece of that for your plate. Cut your hole as close to the chassis as you can. The smoother the better. Grind down the paint a little so the harden stuff can stick better. Also grind down the plate so it sticks good, but do both sides of it. Now when you got it nice and clean put your Goop on the bottom and press it up to the chassis until it settles. When it settles take your Quick Steel and spread it all around and get all the gaps. and let it harden and then your set, no road heat =)

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTMwMDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

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[SOHC4life 96]

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[SOHC4life 96]

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTMxMTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg


Wiring!


Now this is pretty easy, but then again i love electrical. But all you need to do is connect 5 wires total. One of the plugs that you disconnected from the auto shifter is a 14P plug. Cut the plug off. Your going to have a 2 thick blk wires and 1 blk/blu wire, Solder those 3 together. Those together lets your car think its in park and releases the key and starts your car. Important ;-)

Next there is a yel/red wire and a grn/blk wire. Doesnt matter what way they go they do the same. These are for your reverse lights. Connect some line to them and run it through the firewall to your reverse light switch. And your set.

Sadly i couldnt figure out the Cruise control but i believe because the car thinks its in park to get the key and start it wont allow you cruise control. But if you want to know your Cruise control wire its a pink wire. Also there is no how to (atleast from me) about wiring a clutch safty switch.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTMxMzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTMxNDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg


http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTAzMTMxNTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Hope this how to helps alot of you guys. Sorry theres not more pics but like i said i thought these were the most important. If you need more let me know.

Total Work Time: about 8 to 10 hours.

[sleepee]

Very Nice !!!!

[guest]

About total cost?

[makku]

awesome writeup...

just a tip on soldering wires together: if you make a loop with the two ends of wire and loop them together, when you twist the wires together, there's no chance of them coming apart even before you solder them together

[SOHC4life 96]

About total cost?

If you do it by yourself, it'll cost around $600 or so. Probably less, depends on where you get your parts. I bought most of mine brand new from honda so mine cost a bit more. If you have a shop do it, anywhere from $1,500-$2,000


awesome writeup...

just a tip on soldering wires together: if you make a loop with the two ends of wire and loop them together, when you twist the wires together, there's no chance of them coming apart even before you solder them together

Thanks man.

That's a great tip also. I don't like to touch wiring though. I usually have my buddy do it for me.

[flatfourfan]

nice write up, there was nothing around when I did my swap and so me and a mate had to do a lot of research......good shit.:TU:

[oksblue]

Is it only me cause Im not seeing the pics for this swap. and this would be perfect and exactly what I need for my swap if pics were available

[JaredKaragen]

Is it only me cause Im not seeing the pics for this swap.
Yep, no pics seen =(

[Hellhatch]

Awsome write up i was wondering how to do the wiring for the reverse lights and now i know everything for the wiring thanks.

[milanofred]

Would anybody happen to have the pictures of this swap on their computer? Maybe he ran out of server space heehee

Awesome write up btw!

[sergio.sakon]

I'm saving it and making it on PDF....
Then We can post at How to do section and make Fix Post

[nudvl]

need 2 resize pics

[TheOdditie]

Ok, first: Excellent how-to guide. I'd like to ask a question and make a couple comments about it also.

First: Instead of pulling the tranny first then the torque converter. First, drain the tranny while your draining all the other fluids. Second, unbolt your torque converter bolts before you remove the transmission. Its much easier to unbolt the TC before you remove the tranny. If you go about it this way, once you unbolt your tranny, you can just pull it away from the motor and the TC should come out with it all. Don't have to worry about dropping the TC, or lowering the engine to remove the tranny, raise the engine back up to loosen the TC....granted your probably gonna raise it again to replace the Intake and install the flywheel and clutch, but its alot easier this way.

Second: Is it possible to just replace that one sensor on the IM rather than swapping the whole thing? Just kinda seems a lot easier to just swap that rather than removing the whole IM, buying a new gasket and putting it back together.

Also: Do you need a pilot bearing or anything on these? I know when I did the swap on my 240sx, there was an automatic bearing I had to remove and had to install a Pilot bearing.

Last: The pedals aren't that hard to do, I would see them to be the easiest to do, granted I haven't had to pull the brake/gas pedal from one of these yet, but have out of several other vehicles. The easiest way to remove the pin thats on the pedals is a U-shaped Pick. Picks are one of my favorite tools, use them all the time. Just hook in the loop and pull, push the rest out with your finger, might have to wiggle the pedal, but rather easy. As for the pedals themselve, good size extention and a swivel will get them usually. The hardest part about the pedals is finding a way to get somewhat comfortable to do them. Really depends on how high/low the vehicle is, if its really low, just lay upside down on the seat and go to town....ofcourse gotta come up every once in awhile to get the blood out of the head, but better than folding in half sitting outside the car.

The pedals that are really fun, and be thankful we don't have to put up with them, are when the manufacturer doesn't cut the hole in the firewall for the clutch pedal, instead they just leave you a template to show where to cut/drill the hole...and leave you no room to do it. I had to go through that with my 95 240sx...pain in the ass.

Oh yea...for the wiring of a couple of the switches you couldn't figure out: http://www.brokenlimits.com/howto/howtoautomanual/howtoautomanual.htm
They include the Nuetral Safety switch for the clutch pedal, and cruise control.

[pandorasbox]

WOW, what a great write up man! I will be doing this swap on my car very soon and this is some great info, thanks a lot bro!!!
D-Series is a wealth of knowledge!!!!!!!!

[ekcivic9]

how is it possible to do this for only 600 dollars?

[TheOdditie]

Ok, I managed to get the swap done. Took some time on the mounts, as I did it on a 93, rather than the 96-00. For some reason the mounts didn't want to line up, still don't seem like they are lined up correct, but they are in there and it works. Currently I have no starter because I forgot about that part and had to have my car push started all night for the races, no biggy.(I did the swap on my 93 thats built for a circle dirt track).

I answered my own question on the pilot bearing: on Hondas, the Pilot bearing is built into the flywheel, rather than being in the motor.

I also ran into a problem with my linkage. How the mounts are right now, seems like the tranny is shifted a little bit back, even so, my linkage is really far forward. My car is a 2 door and I jacked the linkage from a 4 door, anyone other than me think that could be whats wrong. How the linkage is sat in there right now, the bolts holding it up are on the edge of the sheetmetal before the hole for the shifter, I had to cut some metal between the shifter hole and the automatic linkage hole so the shifter will sit up flat and not hit it. It seems like its stretched out, and can barely get it into the forward gears, I'm stretched all the way out to get it in the forward gears.

Just another tip for anyone doing this swap on a 92-95. As for the auto-linkage that they had to cut out on the 96-00, its just bolted it. Just remove the for bolts/nuts for the shifter, and then there are 2 more that hold the linkage plate in. Should fall right out, no cutting involved. Anything else, I was kinda in a hurry and was as prepared as I thought I was, so there was some rigging involved...its a race car, i can do that, lol.

[ekcivic9]

hey odd, how much did it cost for you to do everything?

[TheOdditie]

lol, im the wrong person to ask. I work at a salvage yard, and only had to buy a slave cylinder, oil, and a funnel. I had the tranny laying around from when I bought a z6 for my 91 civic, so I just used it along with the flywheel and clutch(didn't have money to buy a new one at the time, highly suggest going ahead and getting a new one). I paid $600 for the engine, tranny, wire harness, and ECU. Didn't pay anything for the mounts, pedals, and linkage. I think work priced the linkage at around $30-40. Don't know about the pedals and mounts though. A new clutch kit is around $110-120.

[ekcivic9]

TheOdditie, ah lucky you! thanks for the reply anyhow.

I was hoping I could do this for only 600 :(

[ventturei26]

i did this on my friends 94 ex. about the same time we did the b18b1 sawp into the car.

NOT FUN

[TheOdditie]

You could probably do the swap for $600, just depends how much you pick up the tranny for. I would wait till you get some more money though, never hurts to have a little cushion just incase something happens.

The only problem I really had on my swap was the mounts, but thats still better than doing the swap on my 95 240sx that I had to slowly cut the hole out in the firewall since they don't come with one. And install the pilot bearing, which I managed to mushroom just enough to cause the tranny not to go in. I would do this swap on a civic any day over the nissan again.

[michael91dx]

This is awesome, i've been looking for exactly this for a buddy of mine who got a great deal on an Auto civic. THanks!!!

[sergio.sakon]

I heard you got to change tour TB cable to perform the swap properly is that true?

[TheOdditie]

i didn't even touch my Intake manifold at all, haven't thrown a code for it yet either, well not with the 5spd ECU. Had the auto ECU in there for a bit but started getting BS codes that didn't make a damn bit of sense, so I swapped it.

[ekcivic9]

TheOdditie, which engine do you have? the d16y8?

I think for the d16y8's you ahve to change the whole intake manifold because of the IACV wires or something along those lines... im still not completely sure, but i think so.

can anybody verify this?

[sergio.sakon]

You can buy the whole manifold but you can just change the IACV sensor.
DIY:http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=32373&highlight=IACV+swap

[stackz]

would it be better to just swap the entire harness from the donor 5speed vehicle??

I've got a 94 sedan 5speed and was thinking if I do the conversion I may just want to replace all my automatic harnesses with the manual one straight up...well that and the sedan is pre-wired for all the power goodies as well :p

[stackz]

oops, sorry, forgot to subscribe in that last post :fag:

[Rexinre]

Awesome job! Sticky!

[TheOdditie]

I have a z6, so yea it was a little different, and that could explain why I didn't have to change the IACV, which even if I had the y8, i would have just swapped the IACV rather than the whole IM.

For changing the complete harness, there really isn't a reason to swap the whole engine harness, but if thats what you want to do you can. If your talking about the whole wire harness, good luck, by the time you are done you won't want to touch wires again. I have to deal with that stuff at work everysooften, and can't stand it anymore.

[sergio.sakon]

Yeah, change the whole harness it's alot of work and for me it's kinda pointless, you can use your own and adpt, wiil be much easyer to remake 4 wires than change the harness but if you want you can change it......

[eddy_valdez]

hey wts up guys, i was attemping to do the tranny swap. Everything was going well until it was time to bolt the tranny together again... the rear of the tranny wont close, there is a gap of about 1/2 inch. do you think the problem is the rear mount? the mount was changed before because it was broken, but when i went to order it they didnt ask me if it was for an auto, or a manual so i figured it might fit. is there some other reason why this is happening? i have checked everything, and there is nothing that it doesnt clear?

any comments or ideas are welcomed


I really aprecciate any help. Thankyou...

[TheOdditie]

Eddy: What yr of civic are you working on? I did the swap on a 93 and I had an issue with the mounts. I don't know if I did something wrong, or if the mounts just don't line up. I bolted the tranny up first and did the side mounts before I did the rear mount...which was a total pain in the ass. If your working on a 96+, I couldn't tell you anything about it.

[strykersd]

I just started this swap yesterday buy installing pedals and it hit me while i was working on it. Will vtec work with this swap? I though vtec doesn't activate while a car is in nuetral or park.

[Hellhatch]

Bringing back a old thread cause i need some answers I'm at the wiring point of my auto to manual swap now i know i have to solder the park and neutral together to start the car and get my key out no biggie. My ? is the revearse lights. Now my ? is when using a auto engine harness you have to run a 2 wire plug connector to your 2 wire for revearse by the 14p connector by the old shifter. Now i'm using a 5 spd engine harness which is already running to the ecu so do i have to do something with the 2 reaverse wires by the old shifter.

[flatfourfan]

Why don't you just remove the magnetic lock mcgafter by the ignition then you don't have to worry about the ignition ever getting stuck in there.