Warped rear rotors after poly. bushing install?

[uncivilCivic]

Hey all, I just discovered this board, great to see a site devoted to the Honda "underdog". Nice to be able to ask a question without wading through half a page of "just swap it for a B series" bullshit like on Honda- Tech.com.........

Anyways, last weekend I just installed mostly new polyuerethane suspension bushings (not quite done yet, but didn't have time to finish it all in one go). Well, a couple of days ago, the wear indicator thingy on my rear brakes (92 EX rear disc conv) started rubbing, and upon inspection I discovered that both inner pads were nearly shot. I installed new pads, but couldn't get them to quit rubbing. I didn't have a micrometer avalaible to use, but finally I discovered that one side the rotor is just barely visibly warped. Of course, if you can actually eyeball it to see it's warped, it's pretty bad. The other side wasn't visibly warped, but I'm assuming it's also shot as well. I didn't remove the trailing arm, and never even touched the brakes during the process, but I can't remember looking at the brake pads while I was down there to see if they were worn before I started or not.

It's been a while since I've done any brake maintenance save for bleeding, prob. 80k on those rotors, so is it just one of those goofy coincidences that they're worn out now? Or is it possible that I somehow screwed up in the process of putting the rear suspension back together? I tried to do everything by the book, and adhered to factory torque specs, etc, but I'm only human, and certainly not above screwing up :) . Thanks for any input ya'll might have, and thanks once again for a great new website! :D

[Anonymous]

coincidence i say.....the susp bushings have nothing to do with brake rotor warping....

[uncivilCivic]

OK, that's what I was kinda thinking too. It's just the timing was making me kinda paranoid, ya know? :wink: Thanks for your help.

[Anonymous]

The number one reason rotors get warped is.......

Over tightening the wheel lug nuts.

Specs call for 80 lbs of torque, which does not feel very tight. But that is all you need.

ALWAYS use a torque wrench to apply wheel lug nuts.

Scott

[uncivilCivic]

The number one reason rotors get warped is.......

Over tightening the wheel lug nuts.

Specs call for 80 lbs of torque, which does not feel very tight. But that is all you need.

ALWAYS use a torque wrench to apply wheel lug nuts.

Scott

Always do, although I haven't had my torque wrench calibrated in a while.... I'm thinking that it was just about that time for the rotors to be replaced, like I said I believe the last time they were replaced is around 80-90k ago, and rotors are essentially a disposable item, so no big deal.

I must say though I've always wondered why Honda chose to use a solid rotor in the rears like that (cost effectiveness I'm sure) instead of using at least a vented rotor like in the front. Granted, the rears only share about 30% of the stopping force, but there's still bound to be a lot of heat build-up, and using a vented rotor would have made more sense IMHO. But I suppose as soon as Honda makes me Chief Engineer, I can complain all I want, but untill then, I guess I'll just have to suck up and deal :P

[Eee Pee]

Rear brakes probably do less than 30%. More like 15%.

And because of this, they don't get too hot.

Well, at least not when the target market is driving their cars.

[Anonymous]

Do you want to know a secret about the rear brakes? Do you promise to keep it a secret?

The rear disk brakes that many people put on their Hondas are HEAVIER than the drum brakes thay pulled off. And the rear disks do not stop the car any better.

True!

Want to know another secret? The aluminum drums from a 1984-1987 CRX HF will slip right on your 1988+ Civic. They save about 3 pounds per wheel. In the world of unsprung weight, that is a huge savings.

The aluminum drums cost about $80 each if you purchase them new, but you can get them out of the pick and pull for about $5 each.

Now do not tell anyone.

Scott

[uncivilCivic]

That's interesting to know (and I promise I'll keep it between you and me :wink: ), although the primary reason I did the rear disc conversion was not for a performance increase, but rather for ease of maintenance reasons. I understand how disc brakes work, and how to service them, but I'm not too proud to admit that I'm pretty bewildered by drums. Since I found the brakes that are currently on my car almost literaly by stumbling across them at a pick n pull, I got a pretty good price, and IMHO they're easier to service than drums. Granted, perhaps simply learning to work with what I had from the factory might have been a better solution, but I have this wierd mental disease whereby I have this uncontrollable urge to modify my car from stock. I can't leave it alone!! Must Mod Car!!!! Can't leave Stock! Must mod car! Can't leave stock! Must Mod Car!! :P

(I'll go take my medication now. :wink: j/k)

[Anonymous]

Must Mod Car!!!! Can't leave Stock! Must mod car! Can't leave stock! Must Mod Car!!


My name is Scott and I am addicted to modding my car.

It has been two weeks, three days since I last modded my car.

I am feeling weak. Help me, I am about to mod my car again.

My God, I can not stop myself!!!!!

[Anonymous]

I did the rear conversion, and to tell you the truth, I do not feel a difference at all from drums to disk. But I do feel a difference with the Type-R master install.

* JDM 2ooo Civic Type-R Brake Booster
* USDM 2ooo Civic Si Proportioning Valve
* USDM 2ooo Integra Type-R Brake Master Cylinder

I love the setup, bitch to install. I dont think that drums would be a good match with the above, as honda did not design them togeather.

So, I would recommend that if you are thinking about just having disks in the rear, do it right or not at all. There are to many other things that will better your your ride.

[Anonymous]

The last post made some good points about matching the disks to the master cylinder and portioning valve.

I would suggest that if you are serious about autocross or track racing that an adjustable portioning valve would be a great addition. This would allow you to move brake bias forward or backward as it is needed.

Scott

[Anonymous]

The last post made some good points about matching the disks to the master cylinder and portioning valve.

I would suggest that if you are serious about autocross or track racing that an adjustable portioning valve would be a great addition. This would allow you to move brake bias forward or backward as it is needed.

Scott

That would be nice, but where does one find this adjustable portioning valve for a Honda civic?

[Anonymous]

Adjustabel portioning valves come from real racing supply shops, not the places that sell the bling.

Scott

[Anonymous]

Adjustabel portioning valves come from real racing supply shops, not the places that sell the bling.

Scott

in other words, you dont know.

[specialED]

Adjustabel portioning valves come from real racing supply shops, not the places that sell the bling.

Scott

in other words, you dont know.

Easy killer - we're all here to help each other out right?

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/103.pdf

lots of other places, this is just one.