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View Full Version : DIY Auto Paint part II masking and spraying


sleepingrex
12-21-2003, 07:12 AM
ok now for the masking off.

Take the masking tape before you put on the paper outline the windows and everywhere you don't want to get paint on then put your paper on that and tape it down, it makes it alot easier so you don't have to be as precise when you put the paper down. Use 1 inch tape to make curves and that, it's alot easier to work than 2 inch tape.

Ok now everything is masked off...time to spray!

ok i use a HVLP gun (high volume low pressure) DeVillbliss which runs at 10psi . If you have don't have an HVLP gun i believe the pressure suitable is 35psi. Alright let me discuss the prop ways of spraying. When you spray make sure to keep the gun 6-10 inches from the surface moving at the same speed, and holding the gun as perpendicular as possible throughout the pass across the surface. Wrist movement must be eliminated , a flexing wrist will cause the paint to be thick in the middle and light on the sides. Do not tilt the gun it also causes and uneven spray pattern., in otherwords pretend you are a machine and keep your gun straight to the surface as possible moving the gun with your arm . Move back and forth in uniform strokes and overlapping at 50% of your previous stroke. Pull the trigger before you begin the stroke and release it after you complete the stroke. In otherwords pull the trigger before you get to the surface so it won't be light on the edges and let it go after you made the full stroke across the material for the same reason.

The gun's adjustments are as followed:
there are three adjustment knobs the top one is spray width the middle one is fluid adjustment the one at the bottom of the handle is airpressure. Just toy with it until you get a good spray pattern not to thick not to thin.
Spray gun Tip where it has paint comes out if you are going to spray side to side makes sure the wings of the tips are side to side and if you spray up and down the material make the wings point up and down. (the two little wings on the end where the paint comes out)
ok continue to part 3 :)

2faz2paz
12-23-2003, 10:55 AM
you will want the nozzle pressure to be at 10psi. when the trigger isnt pressed and you have a psi gauge on your gun it should read around 35-50 psi depending what gun you have. also depending on the paint you have "read the instructions on it" you will want a 40% to a 75% overlap so you wont get any "tiget stripes". there is also a flash time in between quotes usually 15-25 mins to give the paint time to setup. also mix what you will need there is a potlife on almost all paint. just make sure you have a rythem going when you paint and stick with that rythem. also you want to go in long strokes all the way down the side. when you stop if you arnt really good at feathering the paint you can get heavy spots which you can see after it is done. also there is a difference in surface and air temp. on the part or car you are painting you want a surface temp of 75 degrees so if you have an air temp of 75 you will have to let it sit there for 3 hours to reach a surface temp of 75.

sleepingrex
12-23-2003, 10:10 PM
general rule of thumb is 50% overlap, yeah i am trying to spray in the cold right now because i am stubborn and its looking like ass :lol:

2faz2paz
12-24-2003, 05:10 AM
yeah its not to good to spray in the cold. if you do a base/clear and it is below 73 degrees i think it is it is really easy for the clear to turn yellow and crack on ya

sleepingrex
12-24-2003, 07:37 AM
nah i am spraying single stage , man i had a crappy day yesterday..first off i forgot to tighten the fluid tip and paint was everywhere then i had to clean the gun again, then i couldnt get the pattern right then i fell on the door i was painting because there was so much crap in the garage now i have to do it all over again :cry:

2faz2paz
12-24-2003, 05:09 PM
aww man that sucks. oh well i was painting a car a 3 am one time and i tripped over the air hose and put my hand right into the freshly painted fender hehe :oops: