View Full Version : DIY Porting
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm
I found the Standard Abrasives rolls to be a bit large for the Honda head. I felt that the Dremel sizes were better as they were smaller. The article is a good write though.
Speaking of dremels. I just got a really good deal at a pawn shop for 2 dremels and a bunch of extras for 30 bucks. :shock: They work pretty good for grinding and polishing aluminum.
Do any of you guys use a flow bench? What kind of results did you see form you work?
Nope, no flow bench here. Strickly by feel and sight for me. I wish I had access to a flow bench.
I plan on trying to build my own. I have the plans out of hot rod mag I found on the net. I am just waiting till im out of x-mas debt. I can give you a link if your intarested? Let me know maby we can swap horror storys of the build.
sweet. post that link. Ive got some limited info stickied in the engine building section if you havent seen it.
Check it out! Its an older bench that MSD had sitting in there shop and hot rod copied it and documented it! Let me know what you think and if you find any good deals on vaccume motors?
http://www.ag.auburn.edu/users/gparmer/articles/flowbench2/
Your gonna have to copy and past this into a new window sorry.
Holy six toed cats!!!!!! Wow! Good job on finding that.
I also found a site that uses the same plans but they try to sell them to you ?Basterds!!
If I ever get my shit together I will post pics of the build and stuff. I am intarested in doing heads and making some power. The cool part about head work is any one can do it but not every one can be good. I have a friend who dose lots of swaps and such so he has lots of practice heads for me :lol:
So I hope I can do some decent work and not just crap!
I plan on using a dremel to do the porting but I want to have a bench before I start doing work! Valve jobs are also half the battle so I need to find a person to do that to.
If I find an more good info I will post links!!
Here's another one for you honddog.
http://nicotine.golden.net/D-Series/Porting/
This is more of what you are doing right now.
its not a honda head but I hope it helps.
Another good one. Damn your on the ball. I like those five golden rules. I think Ill leave the chambers alone they are 38cc chambers on the a6 and I think it best with my limited experience to stay with easy things like the ports. Maybe with some more practice and a working flow bench it would be feasible to do the chambers myself.
Yeah that sounds good. I know its easy to mess up the flow rather than help.
I think that one of the most important areas on a d series head is the the bowl and a good 3 angle valve job. You can also work the runners on the intake side. I have also read that its not worth putting in over sized valves unless you are using forced induction so I think you should be shooting for more velocity rather then opening the runners and port entry unless you are going for top end rather than a balance of tq and hp.
All is just opinion and things I have read so feel free to correct it. I also think we should drill exospeed for some info you know he should know what he's doing!! :twisted:
I agree with you on all accounts. The port inside the runners that I have done is to basically follow the contours of the stock form without trying to really beef anything out. Mostly just remove flash and imperfections that were left by the factory. On the intake side I did open it up almost to the edge of the gasket. The surface, inside the runners, on the intake side isnt mirror finished like the exhaust side. Ive read the exhaust ports should be smooth if not mirrored and the intake side should be finished with a coarser grit like the 80 grit sanding wheels and tubes. Also, I didnt go too deep in and stayed out of the valve area. Gradually tapering off as I went further inside the ports and following the original shape.On the intake side I think this will really improve velocity into the chambers/bowls. And on the exhaust side, gasses will have absolutely no problems escaping.
I think your right about exospeed. He could probably clear a few things up.
That sounds like a good start to me!! Now just get a good valve job and you should be good to go!
Took some more pics tonight.
Dam it every time I see pics of ported heads and stuff I get all pissed and want to grind on somthing!!! :evil:
I think until I get my bench up and running im going to get myself a dremel and see if I can use my buddys dads bentch. I cant take it any more!
PS: nice pics!
jdmspecdc5
01-23-2004, 11:31 AM
nice =)
theyoungone
02-04-2004, 07:50 PM
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d16a_head/
theyoungone
02-04-2004, 07:54 PM
Dont get a dremel. Get a die grinder or a low speed high torque drill. http://www.theoldone.com/forum/uploaded/theyoungone/200423215726_gsr%20port%20for%20my%20b20.jpg
http://www.theoldone.com/forum/uploaded/theyoungone/200424202941_gsr%20chamber.jpg
That is all done with a nikita drill and the correct burrs.
www.ruffstuff.com
Jokerluv
02-05-2004, 10:48 AM
;)
nice work. I like the polished chamber.
theyoungone
02-05-2004, 07:31 PM
Chamber is not just polished! Lots of work done there. The finish is done with a 100 grit cartridge roll.
sorry for my miswording. It looks good.
theyoungone
02-06-2004, 07:54 AM
Thank you. ;D
Anyone with any new projects? Should be starting on a zc DOHC head next week.
turntune
05-30-2004, 07:29 PM
here's a few starter pics on the y8 head I'm preppin for my mini-me install
nice work. Looks like your opening up those intake ports quite a bit. What are your measurements from the bottom of the flange to the port opening? In mm preferably.looks good.
turntune
05-31-2004, 06:43 AM
i'm using a z6 intake and exhaust manifold gaskets for my sizes...intake side of head I opened upt to within .5mm of gasket and intake manifold side will be keeping greater than 1.5mm...the actual port all I did to keep velocity up is only take out the cast pits...actually sanded it to 1000grit then re finished it to have vertical instead of the horizonal finish...I cut it by hand with 320 (wet)....I took the time to blend the ports into the seat better than factory...of note my z6 head is much better in this area over the y8 from the fatory that is....exhaust side I'm keeping port's polished...and b/c of using very free flowing exhaust I'm keeping port opening to within 1.5-2mm of gasket to aide in preventing reversion....I noticed the y8 had tighter bottle necks in the ports over the z6....so I ported the y8's tho match the z6's in the tighter areas....as far as my port splitters...I'm keeping intake bullnosed....but the exhaust side I knife edged........the intake will get a b18b tb and I'll be porting that to match.....also of note...the water port on the z6 is larger....should I match port the outlets to one another?...I plan to match port the water outlet on front of head....also gonna use the z6's burp valve housing since the y8 doesn't have one and I'm tryin for the most oem look!.....got more pics comin btw....this is the exh port after 120 drums...I'm using the carbon on port face as initial line then using gasket to fine tune....
7thGear
05-31-2004, 08:11 AM
i didnt quite understand your wording
are u saying that your exhaust ports are actualy BIGGER than your gasket?
turntune
05-31-2004, 09:31 AM
no, 1.5-2mm smaller than gasket
turntune
05-31-2004, 09:56 AM
heres a couple of shots of the intake splitter b4 and after
7thGear
05-31-2004, 11:51 AM
do u have a flowbench where your testing this?
on scary thing with DIY porting is how are u gonna know if one of your chambers doesnt magicaly flow 3-4% better than the rest of them, now you have an engine that doesnt run evenly
PRcivicHB
05-31-2004, 12:10 PM
I think if you are more or less consistent, it should flow the same... wouldnt be bad to test it...
Its like drawing if u ask me, except you have no eraser....
Edit: make the pics smaller so we can compare side by side...
turntune
05-31-2004, 01:04 PM
i figured since it's a daily driven car there's no need to go all out...I'm mainly interested in lining up the ports to where I want them and removing just enough material to remove cast line and flash...I noticed that the intake valves are closer together on the y8 head...I took some pic's with a ruler between the 2...so I'll post them soon...the really thing I noticed about the y8 head is the casting line on the intake port splitter is really bad...so in order not to remove to much...it's still barely visable in some places, also, I'm leaving the offset splitter config...i hear it helps with low rpm power...
turntune
05-31-2004, 01:11 PM
also, just so everyone knows...I'm using modeling clay to get the ports as close as possible....the only one I forsee a problem with is the #1 cylinders's intake port....the oil supply passage for the vtec sol. protrudes into the port
turntune
06-03-2004, 05:32 PM
heres some shot of the port imperfections that needed blending
shaded areas are bumps in ports that i blended out, seat insert pockets needed blending as well...and the last pic is where I stop until all 4 ports are consistant...then I put a 320 grit finish on them.....
Turntune,
Incredible work. I am finally going start on my flowbench project. Hopefully it goes smooth. I am building a room for it in part of my garage. When I finish Ill take some pics. Probably be done with it by the end of the month, depending on work.
7thGear
06-03-2004, 07:51 PM
how much do flowbenches usualy go for and are they big rigs?
spoonbender
06-04-2004, 01:32 AM
do u have a flowbench where your testing this?
on scary thing with DIY porting is how are u gonna know if one of your chambers doesnt magicaly flow 3-4% better than the rest of them, now you have an engine that doesnt run evenly
do you think that it came from the factory perfectly even? most stuff that is cast will never be exact, so even on a stock set-up, you're not going to get perfect/even flow in all chambers!
*this was explained to me by my friend who is a toolmaker! i'm just expressing his views, which seem to make sense.
turntune
06-04-2004, 05:00 PM
Thanx Hondadog....
heres some shots of the combustion chamber work I started
7thGear
06-04-2004, 07:30 PM
what kind of valves are those??!! mine dont look anything like it, and it looks like a y8 head
turntune
06-05-2004, 06:14 AM
their stock y8...though I'm contemplating going 1mm oversize....prolly not though
...I noticed new oem valves don't have the built up deposits on the exhaust valves, so I polished it off...maybe I'll have them coated when I'm finished to help combat heat
heres a couple of shats of the y8 and z6 in comparison..
7thGear
06-05-2004, 02:16 PM
i dunno man, my stock y8 valves have the number 12 buldged in the center of the intake valves and i belive an 8 on the exhaust valves, while you have the little circles in the center..
weird.
turntune
06-05-2004, 02:19 PM
well I think it's a EDM head...I got it from Tank....ask him
turntune
06-06-2004, 07:55 PM
Well I only got a couple of hours to spend on the head this weekend....got 2 intake and 2 exh ports prepped and a total of 3 comb chambers....of note the deposits on some of the exh valves is very thick....I'm including a pic with a shot of a clean exh valve an one with deposits I buffed them both to show the contrast in color....
turntune
06-12-2004, 02:58 PM
finished the head today....ready for machine shop!...I'm gonna have 3 angle valve job and the head decked only what it needs to be true....I also micro-polished the cam bearing surface as well as the openings for the rocker shafts
turntune
06-12-2004, 03:05 PM
okay..besides the dremel w/ flex shaft...heres what I used to get my head looking this way...I spent a total of $28 on everything I had to buy...already had the dremel and flex shaft,and valve spring compressor...of note...DO NOT BUY THIS SPRING COMPRESSOR...it's a pain in the ass to use on a honda head!
Great pics of the incredible work you have done. Im impressed.When I finish up work on my y7 head Ill post them. You gotta love the intake ports and the job you did on the splitters.
7thGear
06-14-2004, 04:18 PM
how is a dremmel not powerfull enough? what kind of dremel do u have?
plus your not supposed to grind the snot out of it but take your time..., and you dont even need that powerful of a tool for that, this is aluminum after all.
turntune
06-14-2004, 06:26 PM
how is a dremmel not powerfull enough? what kind of dremel do u have?
plus your not supposed to grind the snot out of it but take your time..., and you dont even need that powerful of a tool for that, this is aluminum after all.
T.Y.:beer: yet, tactfully done....
PRcivicHB
06-14-2004, 06:57 PM
Wow looks like you did a good job!!! Congrats, now lets see if it puts down more power when you get it back from the shop...
desdog
06-15-2004, 12:04 PM
All i am saying is that all of the performance shops ive been to dont use a dremel to port. They use something with a lil more power. You can go slower with a bigger bit and take a lot more out than you can going faster with a smaller bit. plus since the other tool's bits are larger, its easier to make the curves and such in the ports.
PRcivicHB
06-15-2004, 02:07 PM
But if you have a dremel and it works, why buy something else...
All i am saying is that all of the performance shops ive been to dont use a dremel to port. They use something with a lil more power. You can go slower with a bigger bit and take a lot more out than you can going faster with a smaller bit. plus since the other tool's bits are larger, its easier to make the curves and such in the ports.
Well, not many of us have the same budget as a "performance shop". And, if you look at the pics a dremel will work just as well. Most of us work out of our own garages.
cryz2
06-15-2004, 03:37 PM
great photos , do any of you use a normal power drill with a flex shaft ? or do you find it a bit harsh ? i have to say i find this very inspiering , also what compound do you use to recut your valves in to the seats ? as i have never done any alloy head work hahahah i was still in the 1950s untill i got my honda
turntune
06-15-2004, 04:06 PM
First, where'd that post go?
Okay, I'm only saying this once, and I'm not saying to hurt ANY egos....give a monkey an air powered porting tool and a head and you will get a "ported" head, maybe not what you need...but a "ported" head none-the-less...
7thGear
06-15-2004, 07:14 PM
HA...
wait i dotn get it?
all i know is that my dremel spinning at 35000 RPM is a little too ruff, i was screwing around with some metal parts when i got it and that thing DIGS IN, i went cheap and got the "on or off" one with no speeds, so i need to dig out a transformer that my buddy has so i can adjust the speed :) haahha, suckers.
but yeah... what ever tickless your pickle right?
turntune
06-17-2004, 02:12 PM
it'd be nice to have a foot operated speed control...like they use for a sewing machine
cryz2
06-17-2004, 02:15 PM
you should make one
Gavhowe
06-20-2004, 12:24 PM
Top advice on porting and polishing. I have a spare head for my D16z6 and have started to follow the advice and do a PnP job. but i have read differing stories on grinding the valve stems down. I have seen some pictures and they have and others where they have not. What do you think? would this causes and problem with sealing, i am going to put some new valve seals in. ?????????????????????????????
turntune
06-20-2004, 01:49 PM
I left my stems alone...tricky area...other than a swirl polish and polished faces my valves are left stock
cryz2
11-13-2004, 03:54 AM
any up dates on your head work ????????
turntune
11-13-2004, 08:24 AM
well, I installed the y8 head onto the b7...look in turntunes b7/y8 mini me post. even my wife can tell the difference!...difference being the off vtec power is improved to the point you think the displacement is increased, where before the 1.5 would struggle at low speeds to pass....with y8 (which is a better head for low/mid power IMO)head and my "street" p&p you won't have to roll into the throttle as slow...motor makes nice power...now I'm looking for a cam...I tried the z6, y8 and the d15b cams...the y8 seemed to make the best power for my application. at the moment I reworking a jdm b20b for n/a street duty for a ek (not mine, I'm staying D) and a 2003.5 mazdaspeed protege motor...busy busy...
cryz2
11-13-2004, 11:29 AM
great wright up , i am loking to do a P+P soon , just a mild one , to clean up the burs and snots cast marks etc , i do not want to go over the top , but i want to get some sort of gains from doing it !!!!!!!!!!!! do you think it is worth matching the in take ports, and poilishing the EX ports, or do you think i should try and do a bit more , i have done a PM4 Intake Manifold for my carbs , gave it a reel good clean up and opend it up a few .00 , and cleand off the cast marks etc
turntune
11-13-2004, 03:24 PM
at the bare min. cleaning up the cast lines and putting a good finish on both the intake and exhaust ports is going to gain power accross the rpm range.....it's only when you actually start removing material do you really start changing the flow characteristics...cleaning up the cast lines and improving the finish will maximise the factory port design. Just be careful not to grind the valve seat and the valve guide...
cryz2
11-13-2004, 03:31 PM
thanks for the reply , i think i will give it a go , on a old head when i find a cheep one to play with , i love diy modz it give you a lot of satifation to have done it your self , i am also going to do the carb slides and ports like this
http://home.netvigator.com/~bricheun/chamber%201.JPG
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