ES motor mount inserts installation

[00EXProject]

hey all. ive tried searching for some instructions on how to install them and had no luck on my year. i have a 2000 ex. i probably could do it without them , but it will probably go quicker with the instructions. thanx for any help.

[Devine_wind]

stick 'em in doesn't take brains nor instructions. Really it is not hard to figure it.

[Steve-O]

I have the Energy Suspension inserts in my lower three mounts (should be similar for yours) and I did mine with the engine out. Having the engine in willmake things more difficult but I believe it is doable.

Prothane makes the inserts for the two large upper ones you see by your strut towers in the engine bay when you pop your hood. I plan to buy those ones over the winter and install them for spring then I will have all my mounts covered.

to explain it without taking up too much bandwidth, you will need to raise your engine to take the tension off the mounts so you can remove them. On my EG, the kit only comes with mounts for the lower torque positions:

-lower front tranny mount (attaches to front of transmission)
-lower front engine block mount (same as tranny but to engine block below P/S pump if you have it)
-rear lower engine mount (the mount should be the same for most all Civics. the CDN Si/USDM Ex will have a stabalizer mount in addition to the engine mount to deal with I believe)

It's a pretty straightforward install. However, one thing which concerned me was the plastic sandwich-type zip locks they give you to hold the lower mounts on. I didn't like them and they seems too flimsy to hold up under hard cornering or excessinve launching. So I measured the distance from one side of the mount to the other with the inserts in and purchased two bolts, four washers and two nuts (all stainless steel) for each mount and used them to sandwich the two together and hold them in. You will see what I mean when you have the mount off and put the two halves on. I actually had the plastic zip-ties break on me when i tested them out with the mounts OUT of the car. I dont even want to know how quickly they would snap ON the car.

The rear mount is the trickiest of all and takes some Plasticman-liek qualities in your arms and hands to get at. I honestly found it ALOT easier to do this with the engine out of the car and i couldn't even imagine having to do it while it was IN the car. Access to a hoist would definitely be an asset and make things alot easier than lying on your back in the ground. But principle is the same except the part of the engine mount that attaches to the engine holds the two halves together.

Taking the mounts out requires a 17mm, 21 or 22m wrench/sockets. A socket wrench and /or impact gun with extensions and swivel joint I found were pretty much a neccessity for the rear. The front ones have a 14mm bolt attaching them to the frame and a 14 or 17mm attaching them to the engine or tranny. The front ones can be removed pretty easily so long as you have the tension off the engine by using the engine hoist.

I dont think i did a very good job at explaining it but I gave it a shot. I can get pics of mine tomorrow when I'm at my garage cleaning up and post them on here if you need them.

P.S. Use you head when working on the car and stick it on jackstands at all four jackpoints to make sure it won't drop on you. Just trying to be safe here. People working under cars may think it's cool and alot quicker to only use the jack at one end, but if the pressure lets go, how cool will they look then with a 2300lb Honda necklace????? Safety glasses won't hurt either because shit falling in your eyes while lying on your back wiggled under a car that is a foot away from your face is not fun :(

P.S.S. Make sure to use a quality anit-seize when putting the bolts back together/in. It makes working on things the next time alot easier to remove. Steve-O recommends Permatex Copper Anit-Seize