makku
y8 head/IM on a d15b7 block INSTALL NOTES
http://d-series.org/viewtopic.php?t=3483
Ok, I attempted this swap last weekend and I finished up around 10pm. I tried starting the car, but there were problems (wouldn't start). I got really scared because this is my only car and after fooling around with things for a half-hour I decided to put the b7 head back on. I now know what the problem was and to avoid embarrassement I won't say what it was... But I will give you guys a write-up so you can see what to expect in the swap. I will attempt to do it again sometime later when I have time... ok, here's the write-up:
This is for a y8 head/IM/TB on a 94 civic DX sedan (d15b7).
Ok, credit goes to BaileySi (i think his name was) for providing the initial write up for a z6 head on this block. I will list the differences.
1. The b7 distributor WILL work on the y8 head. No need to use the y8 or z6 distributor... one won't fit, the other has different plugs.
2. The throttle cable won't attach properly onto the manifold unless you modify the small bracket it mounts to. A temporary solution which sort of worked for me was to move the bracket over by one bolt to the left and just use the remaining bolt hole to attach it. A little less secure, but like I said... temporary.
3. Intake temperature sensor... just remove it from your old manifold (on the back near the bottom) and let it hang. I can't guarantee it won't give you a bad idle, but at least it won't throw a code.
4. Purge control solenoid - located on the back/right of the b7 manifold... or on the fuel rail of the y8 manifold. You'll have to use the old one which has a matching plug to your harness and either mount it to the firewall or just let it hang temporarily. Also, since it uses a SMALLER vacuum line than the y8 one does, I ended up connecting it to the cruise control nipple on the back of the manifold. The larger connection on the front of the manifold will have to be plugged.
5. Fuel rail + fuel pressure regulator - these will have to both come from a y8 or y7 manifold. Your b7 or z6 fuel rail won't work. You won't even be able to drill a hole to try to mount it because it has a divit where the hole needs to be.
6. Fuel line to the fuel pressure regulator - you will need to extend this since the FPR will be on the opposite side. Just buy longer hose.
7. Fuel line to the fuel rail (from the fuel filter) - I tried using the one from my engine (b7) and it doesn't fit properly. The cap that goes on the end doesn't screw onto the fuel rail all the way. I ended up using a large washer in between the fuel line fitting and the cap to take up the slack space. This seemed to work as I wasn't getting any leaks when it was primed. I didn't investigate using the y8 or y7 fuel line and cap since I didn't have one.
8. Use your original fuel injectors... y8 fuel injectors have different plugs.
9. Charcoal canister - my car has three connections coming out of it. The canister designed for the y8 head has only two. My guess was to plug up the line that originally went to the b7 throttle body. The y8 throttle body doesn't have this vacuum connection.
10. MAP sensor - not sure if these need to be swapped but they have different numbers printed on them. i swapped mine just to be sure, but either one will fit your harness.
11. Coolant lines - This one I'm unsure about. The b7 intake manifold has one extra coolant fitting that the y8 im doesn't. I wan't sure about what flows where so I was guessing which line to plug up. However, on the y8 head, there is a large coolant port with a smaller port coming out the top of it. This is located near the VTEC solenoid. I decided to try and plug up the small port. Since my car didn't run for a long period of time, I can't be sure that was the right thing to do.
12. The bracket that supports the manifold against the block will no longer fit if you put the y8 manifold on. I had to remove it in order to get the whole head/manifold to seat well on the block. This MIGHT cause some stress issues for longetivity's sake so you might want to look into getting a new bracket machined to support the manifold's weight. However, my setup fit well so there won't be any immediate problems, if any at all.
Finally, just to confirm the original write-up: I used the y8 timing belt. Worked fine. I removed the oil control jet in the d15 block. I had to use new spark plug cables meant for the y8 head. This is all I could remember... so far.
As you can see, figuring out all this is what took me so long (10pm!! good thing we had an outdoor light to plug in). When I couldn't get it working right, I panicked because I needed my car the next day to pick up my girlfriend from the airport.... but, after careful thought, I know what my mistake was, and it wasn't anything I listed above. (It's got to do with spark plug wire order!!! DAMN!!! spilled the beans!!! I'm so ashamed)
If you need any help email me and I'll try to help if I can. Thanks to everyone on this board for answering all my previous questions!
_________________
My car: 94 Civic DX sedan (mostly stock!)
y8 Mini-me coming soon